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  1. #1
    bex's Avatar
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    New GP1200R Owner

    After reading these forums for about 2 months now, I made the decision to purchase a GP1200R, which I got for a great price from a guy who kept the ski pretty good.

    It has 151 hours on it and is still completely stock. I have been told by the previous owner that the CAT needs to change and it has been verified at 110psi across all three cylinders.

    From research on the board I have purchased the Wave Eater Kit (Clips + Couplers) and D-Plate. I am not interested in super speed, just reliability, however, I am confused by the INFAMOUS MIDRANGE SEIZURE. A good guy here in the Bahamas who has a GPRXP conversion ski told me he had two blown motors within two months based on the ski leaning out under load. Needless to say, I dont want to experience a blown motor.

    My question is, with a stock intake, just the Wave Eater Kit and D-Plate install, do I need to re-jet to the tried and proven combo? And, if it is recommended to re-jet, do I ditch the chokes and get a primer kit. My playground is the ocean so reliability will be first and foremost.

    I almost forgot, I want to keep premix, what ratio of fuelil should I add to the oil and still keep oil injection? Just as a safeguard to being oil starved or ran too lean.

    Thanks for looking.


  2. #2
    L Carlson's Avatar
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    Me myself run 40:1 oil mix I also will replace my pistons and rings around the 200 hr mark. Dump the oil injection Much safer premix.

  3. #3
    All hail the Chief! fullboogie's Avatar
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    Seizures only occur on modified skis. If you plan to go D plate, I would simply install T-Handle mixture screws and a decent tach so you can add a little more fuel. If you go beyond the D plate, plan on rejetting.

    If reliability is your primary concern, I'd keep the chokes. We only remove them for a tad more airflow for top speed.

  4. #4
    bex's Avatar
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    Carlson, Boogie, appreciate both responses and am glad to know that I am kinda on the right path.

    I was planning on keeping the oil injection system intact, although I did get the block off kit from RIVA, and run 50:1 premix + keep the oil injection intact. May have to replace plugs more often, any advantage / disadvantage to that setup?
    Last edited by bex; 11-24-2009 at 11:35 PM. Reason: typo

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by bex View Post
    Carlson, Boogie, appreciate both responses and am glad to know that I am kinda on the right path.

    I was planning on keeping the oil injection system intact, although I did get the block off kit from RIVA, and run 50:1 premix + keep the oil injection intact. May have to replace plugs more often, any advantage / disadvantage to that setup?
    The only reason that you would install the block off plate is because you choose to remove the oil injection and went strictly with premix. Yamaha has variable oil injecton (OEM) installed in your boat... meaning that when you are idleling around, you are running about 50:1 injected. When you are running wide open, then it is closer to 32:1. In other words, you automatically get extra oil when there is a load on the boat.

    Down side to having TOO much oil in your fuel is first off, your plugs foul prematurely, 2nd your power valves tend to gunk up more often then normal, and 3rd you are actually substituting oil for gas in your fuel mixture and could concieveably lean out your engine running to much oil (and not enough gas).

    Yamaha is VERY conservative with their stock boat set ups. This is why they run reliably for so long with out many problems.

    Knowing what I know about the Yamaha's, if I had a stock GP1200R, I would find one of the high quality full synthetic oils (for example AMSOIL) and run it along with your aftermarket clips. You ought to be good for at least 300 hrs without any major work.

  6. #6
    icky002's Avatar
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    Boogie, if lean seizures don't occur in stock ski's, what would be the point of adding more fuel with the T-handles? Is it just being super cautious?

  7. #7
    bex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by salty View Post
    Knowing what I know about the Yamaha's, if I had a stock GP1200R, I would find one of the high quality full synthetic oils (for example AMSOIL) and run it along with your aftermarket clips. You ought to be good for at least 300 hrs without any major work.
    Salty, appreciate your input to this thread. I do want to keep this boat stock and just enjoy it. We dont have a "WINTER" off season here in the Bahamas so to speak, just a few windy days. By saying run the full synthetic oil, you mean just use the AMSOIL instead of the YAMALUBE in the direct injection, change the clips and I'm good.

    AMSOIL Interceptor Synthetic should be the one to get right?

    Peace

  8. #8
    All hail the Chief! fullboogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by icky002 View Post
    Boogie, if lean seizures don't occur in stock ski's, what would be the point of adding more fuel with the T-handles? Is it just being super cautious?
    I mentioned T handles in case he goes with the D plate. Sometimes you may want to add a tad more fuel with a D plate. And since he's going to have the stinger out already for the D plate install, it would be real easy to remove the carb rack and do the T handles.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by bex View Post
    Salty, appreciate your input to this thread. I do want to keep this boat stock and just enjoy it. We dont have a "WINTER" off season here in the Bahamas so to speak, just a few windy days. By saying run the full synthetic oil, you mean just use the AMSOIL instead of the YAMALUBE in the direct injection, change the clips and I'm good.

    AMSOIL Interceptor Synthetic should be the one to get right?

    Peace


    Yes to all of your questions.

    The Yamalube is a SEMIsynthetic. It is a high quality oil, but does not burn quite as clean as the synthetics. You will not see as much smoke with full synthetics and it smells better. The Interceptor is the right one for your application. Do a search on oils. You may find a high quality full synthetic oil other than Amzoil at a decent price in your location.

    Fullboggie has a point in that if you do install the "D" plate, it would not be a bad idea to go to "T" handles.... they are so much easier to work with, and you just might need to add fuel. If you do this, make sure that you make a special point to find out what the factory settings are on your high and low jet adjustments (how far they are adjusted out) before you just remove them.

    There is a down side to "D" plates as well. Some people report a loss of 50rpms, and your temp. sensor alarm goes off. With different sizes of GPR engines, there are also different sizes of "D" plates. I would suggest the R&D plate. Hope you read about this in your research. There are simple ways to get around these things, just be aware of them before you dive in.

    Hope this helps.

  10. #10
    Never say never KirkF350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fullboogie View Post
    Seizures only occur on modified skis. If you plan to go D plate, I would simply install T-Handle mixture screws and a decent tach so you can add a little more fuel. If you go beyond the D plate, plan on rejetting.

    If reliability is your primary concern, I'd keep the chokes. We only remove them for a tad more airflow for top speed.
    Kind of....
    Unless I missed it in some of the previous posts, everyone is forgetting that there have been SEVERAL people who have had seizures on stock boats due to the oil lines coming off @ the carbs.
    Yes, There are up and down sides for going pre-mix on these skis and they all vary from mods done to the ski.

    My 2 cents, if you are going to leave this ski basically stock, properly secure the oil lines at the carbs, put a d plate in, install wave eater clips, put on a Riva or R&D 1200 grate, and enjoy the ski.
    Some will add that you need to reinforce the pump tunnel too but I do not recall anyone going less that 70 cracking the tunnel on anything older than an 03 model.

    Good luck with the ski

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