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  1. #1
    olds72's Avatar
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    Re-assembly time 787 RFI

    Well it looks like I have just about everthing I need to start the re-assembly of my engine. Top end kit and bore, complete engine gasket kit. I finally was able to get my PTO coupler off my crank while it is out of the engine. I bought some Hondabond and Hylomer sealant. The shop manual calls for a couple types of grease, synthetic(used at top of bolt heads) and lithium (not sure on this one). Do you guys use these on your rebuilds? It also calls for loctite 242 blue and 518 for various bolt threads. I have 290 and 262 in my toolbox. What should I use? This is my first 2 cycle rebuild so I'm sure Ill be asking a lot of questions.


  2. #2
    Petron's Avatar
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    Olds,

    I used Loctite 242 (blue) and 518 on my rebuild & torqued everything accordingly.

    Each to their own, but using the loctite in my opinion is highly recommended.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    olds72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petron View Post
    Olds,

    I used Loctite 242 (blue) and 518 on my rebuild & torqued everything accordingly.

    Each to their own, but using the loctite in my opinion is highly recommended.

    Hope this helps.
    Helps for loctite info. but what about the different grease types?

  4. #4
    Petron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds72 View Post
    Helps for loctite info. but what about the different grease types?
    Are you refering to Dow Corning 111 (used under bolt heads) as specified in the shop manual? Yes I also used it.

    I use these loctite items at work, so they're made available to me.

  5. #5
    olds72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petron View Post
    Are you refering to Dow Corning 111 (used under bolt heads) as specified in the shop manual? Yes I also used it.

    I use these loctite items at work, so they're made available to me.
    I can't find the 518 in any of the auto part stores locally. The shop manual also calls for loctite 648.

    I must of missed the Dow Corning. I just saw it said to use a synthetic grease under the bolt heads. i bought a tube of marine grade synthetic grease. Will this work?

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds72 View Post
    I can't find the 518 in any of the auto part stores locally. The shop manual also calls for loctite 648.

    I must of missed the Dow Corning. I just saw it said to use a synthetic grease under the bolt heads. i bought a tube of marine grade synthetic grease. Will this work?
    It will work. The only reason for grease is to get an accurate torque when tightening down the bolts. I would suggest a dab on the threads too, as if you ride in saltwater, it will make removing them easier for next time. Use the 242 on the case and cylinder bolts, and there is one exhaust manifold bolt that goes through into the water jacket of the rear cylinder. They recommend 518 on it to prevent a possible leak. Make sure you chase your threads with a tap to get all the old loctite out, as this can give false torque readings and also prevent the 242 from bonding properly.

  7. #7
    olds72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Make sure you chase your threads with a tap to get all the old loctite out, as this can give false torque readings and also prevent the 242 from bonding properly.
    Good thing I just bought a metric tap set.

  8. #8
    olds72's Avatar
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    Next question:
    When the manual states to torq to (17 lbf * ft) is that ft lbs and (115 lbf *in) inch lbs?

  9. #9
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Mine says 24 N M. It doesn't say anything about in/lbs. 17 ft/lbs is correct though.

  10. #10
    Greatest Grandpa jhjesse's Avatar
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    conversion

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