# Thread: Distance for Achieving Top Speed? (FZR/SHO)

1. ## Distance for Achieving Top Speed? (FZR/SHO)

I was just wondering what kind of distance everyone is going (from a stop) to get their top speed? With these s/c motors it seems like they just dont stop pulling!!

I noticed when I took out my ski yesterday for a quick run, I went from a stop, cavitated real bad, then it went to 76-77 in absolutely no time, then about every 1 second was gaining about 1.5mph until I hit 80.1 at which point I let off, and traveled just between a 1/8 and 1/4 mile. (wideband was showing a little lean, didn't want to run it hard for that long). Is it neccessary to wind these things out to a 1/2 mile or more to get a true top speed with the top end these things have?

btw, this isn't a full SHO or FZR/S, it's a GPR-SHO conversion.

2. Originally Posted by smbstyle
I was just wondering what kind of distance everyone is going (from a stop) to get their top speed? With these s/c motors it seems like they just dont stop pulling!!

I noticed when I took out my ski yesterday for a quick run, I went from a stop, cavitated real bad, then it went to 76-77 in absolutely no time, then about every 1 second was gaining about 1.5mph until I hit 80.1 at which point I let off, and traveled just between a 1/8 and 1/4 mile. (wideband was showing a little lean, didn't want to run it hard for that long). Is it neccessary to wind these things out to a 1/2 mile or more to get a true top speed with the top end these things have?

btw, this isn't a full SHO or FZR/S, it's a GPR-SHO conversion.
About a 1/2 miles seems right to me. I gave it that long riding SHOdude's GPR-SHO conversion and I give my regular SHO that long on top speed runs.

Your speed also seems very much in line which what SHOdude's conversion runs, with a full tank of gas, but it kind of depends on how he has it set up. If he has the ride plate shimmed down for handling then he loses a few MPH.

3. Originally Posted by hitman
About a 1/2 miles seems right to me. I gave it that long riding SHOdude's GPR-SHO conversion and I give my regular SHO that long on top speed runs.

Your speed also seems very much in line which what SHOdude's conversion runs, with a full tank of gas, but it kind of depends on how he has it set up. If he has the ride plate shimmed down for handling then he loses a few MPH.
I should be running a little bit faster than SHOdude because of my engine tech wheel and powershot. I'm at 11.8lbs of boost right now. I need to play with the rideplate a little bit and the trim tabs, I just bolted up my rideplate with one washer up front, none in the back. Also I noticed a little bit of hesitation at the top, almost like a little bit of spark blow out, so I've got new plugs to put in as well. I'm going to retune the powershot and make sure I'm in the 11.8-12.2 range for a/f ratio, take it back out with the new plugs and go a 1/2 mile, or until the GPS #'s going up.

4. Originally Posted by smbstyle
I should be running a little bit faster than SHOdude because of my engine tech wheel and powershot. I'm at 11.8lbs of boost right now. I need to play with the rideplate a little bit and the trim tabs, I just bolted up my rideplate with one washer up front, none in the back. Also I noticed a little bit of hesitation at the top, almost like a little bit of spark blow out, so I've got new plugs to put in as well. I'm going to retune the powershot and make sure I'm in the 11.8-12.2 range for a/f ratio, take it back out with the new plugs and go a 1/2 mile, or until the GPS #'s going up.
Yeah, you'll need to dial in your A/F with a gauge that has logging capabilities like the Innovative LC-1, and adjust the Powershot. Tons of speed to be had in adjusting the rideplate too. Keep us posted. Very interested to see what a conversion is capable of with the Powershot and boost wheel.

5. Originally Posted by smbstyle
I should be running a little bit faster than SHOdude because of my engine tech wheel and powershot. I'm at 11.8lbs of boost right now. I need to play with the rideplate a little bit and the trim tabs, I just bolted up my rideplate with one washer up front, none in the back. Also I noticed a little bit of hesitation at the top, almost like a little bit of spark blow out, so I've got new plugs to put in as well. I'm going to retune the powershot and make sure I'm in the 11.8-12.2 range for a/f ratio, take it back out with the new plugs and go a 1/2 mile, or until the GPS #'s going up.
I thought I read somewhere that your conversion was modded, but then I llooked in your sig and it says "stock".

Hell yes, you should be running a lot faster than me. I have a trued hull too. My plate and tabs are shimmed down for handling and lost 2-3 mph as hitman said. I want handling and not the straight line numbers.

6. Originally Posted by hitman
Yeah, you'll need to dial in your A/F with a gauge that has logging capabilities like the Innovative LC-1, and adjust the Powershot. Tons of speed to be had in adjusting the rideplate too. Keep us posted. Very interested to see what a conversion is capable of with the Powershot and boost wheel.
yeah, I have the LC-1 wideband with a DynoTune display gauge.

7. Originally Posted by SHOdude
I thought I read somewhere that your conversion was modded, but then I llooked in your sig and it says "stock".

Hell yes, you should be running a lot faster than me. I have a trued hull too. My plate and tabs are shimmed down for handling and lost 2-3 mph as hitman said. I want handling and not the straight line numbers.
I have the sig like that just to screw with people. A guy with a waveblaster at the lake the other day asked what I had done, and I told him an air filter and intake grate, lol.

what top speed are you seeing with yours, and what conditions? (air/water temp, distance, etc.)

I'm going to be going back out Sunday and messing around with the powershot and the rideplate to get everything set up right.

8. Originally Posted by smbstyle
I have the sig like that just to screw with people. A guy with a waveblaster at the lake the other day asked what I had done, and I told him an air filter and intake grate, lol.

what top speed are you seeing with yours, and what conditions? (air/water temp, distance, etc.)

I'm going to be going back out Sunday and messing around with the powershot and the rideplate to get everything set up right.
Best speed was 81.9 with the shims - middle of summer.

My motor is still stock, except for air filter, intake ribbon removed, running a 1200 grate, 87 nozzle.

9. Originally Posted by SHOdude
Best speed was 81.9 with the shims - middle of summer.

My motor is still stock, except for air filter, intake ribbon removed, running a 1200 grate, 87 nozzle.
thats pretty damn stout for a stock conversion ski!

I'm hoping to be at 84-85 with the ss800 grate on and new spark plugs, and then hopefully 87ish with some fine tuning on the powershot, rideplate and trim tabs...

I have been told though that the faster you are going, the less angle is needed for top speed, so to start leveling out the rideplate a bit? anyone know if there is any truth or testing behind that?

10. Originally Posted by smbstyle
thats pretty damn stout for a stock conversion ski!

I'm hoping to be at 84-85 with the ss800 grate on and new spark plugs, and then hopefully 87ish with some fine tuning on the powershot, rideplate and trim tabs...

I have been told though that the faster you are going, the less angle is needed for top speed, so to start leveling out the rideplate a bit? anyone know if there is any truth or testing behind that?
That would be a question for the GPR gurus like Duke or Jim or Jerry or a anyone who posts a lot in the 2 stroke section.