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  1. #1

    Pale Rider`s GP1300R... "Victim of Changes"

    This transformation started back in November of last year after putting 50 hours on a bone stock GPR.
    Decided to change the name of the ski to "Victim of Changes" due to the ongoing uninstall and install of different parts.
    Thought I`d share the journey to where it is at now. Hold on this is going to take a while...

    October 2008:
    Planning Stages...

    My goal for now:
    To have better acceleration and hole shot. Whatever top end gain comes from it, ok. To keep being able to run 87 or 89 octane, preferably 87. I don`t want to get into the engine via removing the head and milling at this time. I do like to cruise a lot in the 40-45 mph range.
    here`s a list of hull and engine mods:

    tunnel reinforcement
    IR mod plate
    metal tabs
    air filter kit, R&D power plenum or Riva type???
    13\19 or 14\20 prop
    tiny tach
    IR holeshot kit
    maybe efi controller
    maybe VF3 reeds
    and maybe switching over to premix
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 12-07-2009 at 01:05 PM.

  2. #2
    November 2008:
    Decided to do a compression check before I put the ski into hibernation.
    Cold engine @ WOT test.
    Front cylinder 1st 132 2nd 130
    Middle cylinder 132 132
    Rear cylinder 130 132

    Looks good spot on.

    The removal of parts was going well then "snap", crap, one of the ride plate bolts broke, was totally like WTF, didn`t muscle it just barely touched it, even heated it a bit, oh well one casualty out of the 20+ bolts remove I guess isn`t so bad, just more work and a few dollars more to replace that insert...crap...started to drill it out, was going well until the pilot bit snapped, had more than enough to grab with an easy-out but NO GO...wouldn`t budge...
    but we`re off to a good start...

    Ride Plate, Trim tabs, steering nozzle, Venturi nozzle, Pump, Grate, and shoe removed. Wear ring looks good. now have to clean all the parts.
    hull is masked off for work in the engine compartment.
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:33 PM.

  3. #3
    as I was removing parts from the ski to gain access to the tunnel, I found a leak where the hose connects to the exhaust silencer. The red liquid you see is RV antifreeze. There was also sand inbetween the connection and splattered throughout the rear of the ski. Hmmm how long was this leaking?
    also found the clamp to the exhaust elbow outlet loose, as was the other end.
    Found was appears to be carbon? pepper like particles laying around in the hull.
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:28 PM.

  4. #4
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:33 PM.

  5. #5
    December 2008:
    Had minimal time after work to remove the inserts and run the air compressor, it`s pretty loud, so gotta have respect for my neighbors
    Got out the Ol air saw and made a few cuts without touching the hull.
    screwed in a few bolts and gave them a whack!
    here they are...
    1 ride plate, and 2 shoe was dusty!
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:35 PM.

  6. #6
    it lookin like I have to at least remove the Trim cable to make it easier to plop on the tunnel reinforcement. I started grinding down the raised area where the shoe inserts were.

    ok, got busy after breakfast with the South Jersey Boys.
    Removed the trim and steering cables. Covered the engine compartment, the hull is taped of previously. Trimmed the green splooge at the tunnel thru hull, dry fit Coco`s reinf. skin, also massage the skin a bit for a better fit. man it was dusty, but had the trusty shop vac, mask, and safety glasses. away we go!...
    previously removed all styrofoam, and air duct tubes and hose.
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:37 PM.

  7. #7
    after feeling for best position for the skin, seems I can move it around just a bit, to get it to lay flat it`s about an 1/8 from the rear transom.
    Here the tunnel is prepped, I`ll do a little more fitting before I clean it up with acetone.


    Tools, prep work:
    I used 3M burgundy rol-loc surface prep disc and the coarse sanding disc. in my MAC whizzer, where it was necc I used the bit extension. The coarse grit disc made quick cutting for the billet pump shoe blocks. Also a 3M coarse grit sponge came in handy to even the surface. and running the shop vac while I was grinding away...
    OK, Doug and TJ, here`s your chance to poke at me!...
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 05:08 PM.

  8. #8
    It was time to go Premix
    Took a break from the rear of the ski, and went to work on the pump.
    couldn`t decide where to zip tie the oil cable so I reinstalled the cable bracket and put the cable back in.
    Cleaned off the mounting surface, put a very light skim coat of waterproof grease on the gasket, some blue loc-tite on the bolts and torqued to 7.6NM...
    Yes, Doug, I even torqued those.
    Drained the oil tank, just capped off where the hose joint was.
    Next: remove oil level sending unit and tie up floats...

    shortly after this I just decided to remove the oil pump portion of the throttle cable.
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:42 PM.

  9. #9
    Well it was time to get busy again. The forces were with us and Doug was able to come over early to join in on the fun. Many thanks goes out to Doug for his help!
    After the skin was checked for fitment for the final time, Doug install the seal plug pieces into the shoe. Surprisingly it all fit great. We then checked alignment of the shoe and all was good so we aligned the skin and shoe and drilled the holes. Then the inner hull was tapped off and cleaned with acetone. We needed to massage the skin for proper block fitment. Doug started to mix the Marine Tex Epoxy that was supplied in the IR kit. Previously we had masked the underside of the attaching blocks and applied antisieze to the temporary bolts so the marine tex will not adhere the blocks to the skin and the bolts can be removed easily and have the supplied bolts installed when it`s time to seal up the shoe. First things first...
    Applying epoxy to the underside of the skin, spreading an even coat, and installing it to the tunnel. Underneath the bolts get threaded in with equal pressure to help spread out the epoxy. repeating this a few times with several minutes in between. Then the final cleaning is done and then your finished. here ya Go!
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:45 PM.

  10. #10
    I can`t stress enough the importance of proper prep work and foresight when undertaking a project. We masked off the mating surfaces of the shoe and threaded blocks to prevent epoxy from sticking to them and creating a problem. Doug had previously inserted the pump seal kit which takes up the voids and masking over them to give a decent solid surface. Bcbelieve it or not the epoxy will squeeze thru the smallest of crevices and into the holes and threads of your fasteners. We also coated temporary bolts with antiseize.
    after the tunnel mod curing for almost 2 full days, I removed the temporary bolts and removed the shoe with very little resistance. as you can see the epoxy oozed from the bolt holes but did not stick to any components. it will be necc to clean out the holes a bit when it comes time to reinstall the shoe and seal that up...

    look what I found here locally!
    This is the crossed referenced equivalent of the gates 24024 vulco 1 1/2 hose...
    It Dayco brand, I know there belts and hoses are really good quality.
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 07-17-2010 at 01:48 PM.

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