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  1. #1
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Available Ride Plates for the SL Body

    Hey all,

    i have a 94 Sl that does a lot of bouncing. With research, I have found that this is the nature of the beast, but there are things you can do:

    Trim Down, yes this works but scrubs Top Speed
    Sponsons: Works a little but no spins
    Extended Pump and wedge--need info here
    Extended Ride plate (with or without the EP)

    My thought is to try the ride plate first in the ride plate first.

    I thought I had read somewhere that any of the SLX plates were the extended length plates and would work on any of the SL hulls.

    I know that OP makes extended and rough water plates.

    Thoughts and advice on which plate would be best for a big guy like me 6'2 230# and my 11 yr old to just be able to go WOT without bouncing all day long.

    Yes Tony, I know you have a SLT for me when I am ready
    Thanks all

    Sean


  2. #2
    mr. happyfunbear tenjuna's Avatar
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    my understanding is the extended plate (slx780) will give you much better handling and the extended pump will give you more top speed.

    you can get the plate on ebay for ~$25, the pump I have seen ~$150 - 300 depending on how lucky you get.

    beyond that aftermarket reeds are the other quickie upgrade for the sl.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seaobin View Post
    Hey all,

    i have a 94 Sl that does a lot of bouncing. With research, I have found that this is the nature of the beast, but there are things you can do:

    Trim Down, yes this works but scrubs Top Speed
    Sponsons: Works a little but no spins
    Extended Pump and wedge--need info here
    Extended Ride plate (with or without the EP)

    My thought is to try the ride plate first in the ride plate first.

    I thought I had read somewhere that any of the SLX plates were the extended length plates and would work on any of the SL hulls.

    I know that OP makes extended and rough water plates.

    Thoughts and advice on which plate would be best for a big guy like me 6'2 230# and my 11 yr old to just be able to go WOT without bouncing all day long.

    Yes Tony, I know you have a SLT for me when I am ready
    Thanks all

    Sean
    Sponsons and extended ride plate will help alot, but not stop porpoising altogether.

    SLT sponsons will not eliminate you from being able to do donuts. I suggest getting a set of these.

    A SLX ride plate will work well. (I linked one in the Ebay BIN for CHEAP recently)

    The Ocean Pro "R" plate will work well, but the "O" plate will be better. However, it (OP "O") will decrease top speed.

    The long pump does NOT help porpoising, in fact the 4* wedge may actually increase the porpoising problem.

    The R&D intake grate, may also help keep the ski stuck to the water better than the stock intake.

    If you install these 3 parts, it will greatly improve your SL hull's rough water ability.

  4. #4
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys

  5. #5
    FLjoyrider's Avatar
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    I used a SLT ride plate.. but had to trim 1/2" off both sides and re drill + countersink all the bolt holes except the front two.

  6. #6
    john zigler's Avatar
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    i have an extended SLX plate, and sponsons from SLX's, and less agressive ones from SLT's

    let me know, if i can help. ( email's or call the shop are best)

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john zigler View Post
    i have an extended SLX plate, and sponsons from SLX's, and less agressive ones from SLT's

    let me know, if i can help. ( email's or call the shop are best)
    There you go ^^^^^^^.

    One stop shopping.....

  8. #8
    urugol's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    I also have a serious porpoising problem. I get it on glass water, trim up or down doesn't really matter. I have an SL900, and it usually starts bouncing at 56-57mph up to top speed of about 63-64mph.

    I have never ridden this thing with the stock pump assembly, as I needed a wear ring and impellor when I bought the thing I upgraded to a full SS pump assembly from an MSX-140 and running.

    I am running the MSX-140 exit nozzle, but the
    I noted the extended ride plate can help, but what about the pump and wedge? Actually how can I tell what kind of wedge I am running at the moment, if stock I think it is 4 degree but how does one measure it?

    appreciate your help, thanks.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Measuring jet pump wedge angle

    Quote Originally Posted by urugol View Post
    ...how can I tell what kind of wedge I am running at the moment, if stock I think it is 4 degree but how does one measure it?...
    Measure the thin and thick sides of the wedge (top is thin, bottom is thicker).

    The difference in thickness between the thick and thin determines the angle of the wedge, plus some simple triangle geometry math

    Measure the wedge in metric, makes the math easier

    Pump diameter is 148mm, so the radius is 148/2 = 74mm

    Using an online calculator, I come up with;
    2 degrees = ~2.6mm wedge thickness difference
    3 degrees = ~4mm wedge thickness difference
    4 degrees = ~5mm wedge thickness difference
    5 degrees = ~6.5mm wedge thickness difference
    6 degrees = ~8mm wedge thickness difference
    8 degrees = ~10mm wedge thickness difference

    Measure the thickest part of the wedge, in mm.
    Measure the thinnest part of the wedge, in mm.
    Subtract thin from thick.

    Use that difference number to determine the wedge angle.

    Note: It doesn't matter whether you measure the entire thickness of the wedge, or just the distance from mating face to mating face. Just measure the same thing on both sides

    Depending on how the wedge was manufactured, the total thickness of the wedge depends on both the angle, and the minimum thickness of the thin section. As the wedge overall gets thicker or thinner, and the angle increases or decreases, this has an effect on how the water cooling tube mates with the pump nozzle.

    Check for water tube binding or excess looseness when reinstalling the pump nozzle after changing the pump wedge. It is easy to crack the plastic water tube if the wedge angle is too much.

    If there is a small water tube to nozzle fitting gap when installing a thicker wedge, the gap can be sealed with sealant, or you can find a slightly longer water tube that fits better. Or modify the one you have.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by urugol View Post
    I am running the MSX-140 exit nozzle...

    I noted the extended ride plate can help, but what about the pump and wedge?...
    Adding wedge angle tends to aggravate hull porpoising.

    Reducing wedge angle (or removing it completely), can reduce porpoising.

    Extending the ride plate reduces porpoising.

    The Polaris SL hulls seems to respond well to longer ride plates. The Ocean Pro O (Ocean) versions gets good reviews for improving the ride in rough water.

    The Ocean Pro R (bouy Racing) ride plate seems to be in the middle - better than stock, but not as ride stabilizing as the O version.

    Others have welded extensions onto the stock SL ride plate, or found a longer ride plate from another Polaris hull model, and made it fit.

    It is unclear to me whether using an extended jet pump with a stock/short ride plate helps with the porpoising.

    The extended pump might enhance the effect of the trim in the full bow down position, but I would expect the longer ride plate would have a better all around result.

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