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  1. #1
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    water found in pump stator

    I pulled my pump yesterday to inspect it. Pulled the pump cone off an water came outta it. How this happended I am uncertain of, becuase I rebuild the pump stator 25 hours ago, with everything replaced with new. The bearings do seem to turn fine. But are these sealed bearings? Or should I just do another full rebuild?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The tail cone has small pockets around the perimeter. Did the water come from those small pockets, or from the center area of the cone?

    The recommended method for removing the tail cone is to hold the stator with the cone pointing down, then wiggle it off. That way, if there is water inside, you can tell whether it is in the center area or the outer pockets.

    Water in the outer pockets of the stator cone is quite common, and does not affect the bearings. Water in the center area is bad, since that is where the bearings are.

    The main seal for the stator cone is a single large O-ring in a groove inside the stator where the cone slides in. Did you replace and lightly grease that O-ring?

    The bearings are not fully 'sealed', just grease filled.

    Is there any sign of water or rust on the actual bearings?

  3. #3
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The tail cone has small pockets around the perimeter. Did the water come from those small pockets, or from the center area of the cone?

    The recommended method for removing the tail cone is to hold the stator with the cone pointing down, then wiggle it off. That way, if there is water inside, you can tell whether it is in the center area or the outer pockets.

    Water in the outer pockets of the stator cone is quite common, and does not affect the bearings. Water in the center area is bad, since that is where the bearings are.

    The main seal for the stator cone is a single large O-ring in a groove inside the stator where the cone slides in. Did you replace and lightly grease that O-ring?

    The bearings are not fully 'sealed', just grease filled.

    Is there any sign of water or rust on the actual bearings?
    About a cup of water came outt the tail cone, its leaking an i dont know why. All the gaskets were in place, i know this for a fact. an the tail cone isnt cracked. Theres signs of salt build up inside tho.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xplayer2885 View Post
    About a cup of water came out the tail cone, its leaking and I don't know why.

    All the gaskets were in place, I know this for a fact. an the tail cone isn't cracked.

    There's signs of salt build up inside tho.
    That much water, with salt, I would replace those stator bearings.

    When you take it apart, look for signs of which end the water came in. If the front bearing looks rustier, then the front seals may be the leak location.

    Examine the bushing/spacer that the front seals ride on. It should be very smooth, with no grooves or roughness where the seals ride.

    Was grease packed into the space between the two seals?

    Was the engine ever run out of the water for more than a minute or two?

    Look carefully at the front seals, and compare them with new seals. Are the sealing lips worn or deformed?

    Were the two seals installed with the correct sides facing out?

  5. #5
    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    That much water, with salt, I would replace those stator bearings.

    When you take it apart, look for signs of which end the water came in. If the front bearing looks rustier, then the front seals may be the leak location.

    Examine the bushing/spacer that the front seals ride on. It should be very smooth, with no grooves or roughness where the seals ride.
    Correct.
    Was grease packed into the space between the two seals?
    Nope.......
    Was the engine ever run out of the water for more than a minute or two?
    Yes, usually I flush for 3-5 minutes after I ride.
    Look carefully at the front seals, and compare them with new seals. Are the sealing lips worn or deformed?
    Nope.
    Were the two seals installed with the correct sides facing out?
    Yes.

  6. #6
    Canadian Beaver Inspector jkindt's Avatar
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    Just rebuild it with new bearings, seals, lots of good Marine grease, NEW O-RINGS and have a really close look at that cone for cracks and such. Is it a 6 vane stator? What condition is it in? If you plan on upgrading, then just use this as an excuse to upgrade and dont bother rebuilding this one.

    All of the orings are available through Polaris still. As are the driveshaft end rubbers. Bearings and seals are common parts that you should be able to get through an industrial supply company.

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    the tail cone probrably has hairline cracks in it

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    xplayer2885's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785 lugs View Post
    the tail cone probrably has hairline cracks in it
    Stator is brand new is six vane, wear rings is brand new..pretty much the whole pump was replaced new.
    An lugs, atleast now I have a reason to go get a wetwolf cone

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by xplayer2885 View Post
    Stator is brand new is six vane, wear rings is brand new..pretty much the whole pump was replaced new.
    An lugs, atleast now I have a reason to go get a wetwolf cone

    see how everything seems to fall right into place

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xplayer2885 View Post
    usually I flush for 3-5 minutes after I ride
    That is a long time for the seals to run without water cooling. The normal upper limit is two minutes engine run time without being in the water.

    The drive shaft and jet pump seals and bearings are normally cooled by the water flow when the hull is floating. On the trailer, they are not cooled, so the friction heat builds up.

    If you clamp off the exhaust water injection hose (not sure which model you have), then you do NOT need to run the engine while flushing, except for maybe a minute while flushing the water box.

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