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  1. #1

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    New Product Review: Riva Open Loop Cooling Kit With Thermostat

    Bruce and his team at Riva have been working on this kit for quite some time now, I think I saw the test boat fitted with it probably 6 months ago now. This is not just your ordinary closed loop conversion kit. This kit is engineered, and developed on a boat with a handful of mods, but more importantly fully instrumented, to collect proper data to make sure that it is doing what it is supposed to be doing.

    I received the kit Friday evening, and went strait to work on the install. We planned a full day of testing on Saturday so it would be a good shake down for the kit. First off it it is properly boxed, and comes with very comprehensive directions. The Kit covers everything you need, including the Thermostat, waterpump block off with sacrificial anode, all hoses and fittings necessary, built in flush kit, oetiker clamps, zipties, thru-hull fitting, etc...

    We were installing the kit onto a 2008 RXPX, with Riva Stage 1 mods (3" intake, Venturi with 82mm ring, 15-22R, Riva grate. It also has the Riva flame arrestor intake manifold kit, and a resonator bypass. Other than that it is a completely stock 30hr. RXPX that goes 74mph on glass. You may be tempted to open the box and just start installing parts. Do yourself a favor, clean off your work bench, lay out the parts, start with step 1 in the directions and follow them. Yes, you know your boat, and you know where everything goes, but if you follow the directions, I promise you that you will not take any steps backward in order to finish the project. Taking my time, and being meticulous, following the directions to the "T" the install took about 3 hours from seat off to seat back on. It is clean, sanitary, and anything that frees up space in that hull is a big thumbs up for my money, so another big plastic part goes in the bin... (Water pump/thermo housing)

    The first thing I did when I got to the lake yesterday afternoon was to start the boat up, warm it up, then level it off, and check and carefully note the oil level. I wanted to chart any GIO build up that could be evidence of over-cooling. Then I backed the trailer back in, but turned the boat around on the trailer, with the pump inlet in the water but the nozzle out. ( Caution.. if you do this, make sure that the tailgate or the rear hatch of your tow vehicle is closed !!) I wanted to start the boat, let it warm up, and watch the engine outlet fitting to see if the water flow changed as the thermostat opened. Well that is exactly what happened. On start up, just a slight trickle came out, within 60 to 80 seconds that water was warm, then the flow about doubled, and inside 3 minutes it was a steady flow.. Not like a garden hose, but steady flow ( of course there is heavy flow out of the other water outlet). I let it idle for another 2 or 4 minutes , and nothing changed. I then got out my Ratech infared heat gun and pointed it at the thermostat housing, and it was idleing at 166F... Very impressive. I could not easily get my infared onto the oil cooler, but I could aim at the 2 hoses entering and exiting the oil cooler, and they were about 165 and 175F. Time to ride.

    We ran almost 20 gallons through the boat, all at race pace on the bouys, zero issues. I finally pulled the boat out of the water, idled it blew out the water box, then leveled it in the same spot as I had done previously, and once again checked the oil level. Zero change from the morning test. I should also report that this boat is not equipped with a catch can yet. I just have a little K&N filter on the end of the nipple on the back of the housing. As most of you know, GIO, or any abundance of oil vented this way will make a real mes in the hull... Zero.. No mess in the hull at all.

    The engineering in the thermostat is the KEY.. I will never do open loop again any other way. I am sure that many members here have had head gasket failures, among other problems trying to nurse along the closed loop system that is so taxed when you start modding these engines. For those of you who live in colder climates, no more ball valves to mess with...

    I give the kit 2 thumbs up, I think Jerry will have them in stock the first of the New Year, or of course you can call Riva, The price is the same, so we should support GH...

    Now it is time to start working on ride plates. With no coolant to mess with, ride plate work is a whole new ball game.

    Attached are a few photos of the install.

    Any Questions, I am happy to answer them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    rick xp's Avatar
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    Great write up mate.

    Very impressive.

    I will take one as soon as they are available.

  3. #3
    Banned User
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    +1 on the great write up. i too have been impressed w/ rivas thoroughness and easy to follow step by step instructions/products, leaves very little to worry about.

  4. #4
    RXP 260 X Short Course Veteran RXP244's Avatar
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    Looks Good

    But I can't help thinking I've seen something like that before.
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  5. #5
    rick xp's Avatar
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    Did you have any problems with yours?

  6. #6
    jetskibum1's Avatar
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    Nice Add!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis914 View Post
    Bruce and his team at Riva have been working on this kit for quite some time now, I think I saw the test boat fitted with it probably 6 months ago now. This is not just your ordinary closed loop conversion kit. This kit is engineered, and developed on a boat with a handful of mods, but more importantly fully instrumented, to collect proper data to make sure that it is doing what it is supposed to be doing.

    I received the kit Friday evening, and went strait to work on the install. We planned a full day of testing on Saturday so it would be a good shake down for the kit. First off it it is properly boxed, and comes with very comprehensive directions. The Kit covers everything you need, including the Thermostat, waterpump block off with sacrificial anode, all hoses and fittings necessary, built in flush kit, oetiker clamps, zipties, thru-hull fitting, etc...

    We were installing the kit onto a 2008 RXPX, with Riva Stage 1 mods (3" intake, Venturi with 82mm ring, 15-22R, Riva grate. It also has the Riva flame arrestor intake manifold kit, and a resonator bypass. Other than that it is a completely stock 30hr. RXPX that goes 74mph on glass. You may be tempted to open the box and just start installing parts. Do yourself a favor, clean off your work bench, lay out the parts, start with step 1 in the directions and follow them. Yes, you know your boat, and you know where everything goes, but if you follow the directions, I promise you that you will not take any steps backward in order to finish the project. Taking my time, and being meticulous, following the directions to the "T" the install took about 3 hours from seat off to seat back on. It is clean, sanitary, and anything that frees up space in that hull is a big thumbs up for my money, so another big plastic part goes in the bin... (Water pump/thermo housing)

    The first thing I did when I got to the lake yesterday afternoon was to start the boat up, warm it up, then level it off, and check and carefully note the oil level. I wanted to chart any GIO build up that could be evidence of over-cooling. Then I backed the trailer back in, but turned the boat around on the trailer, with the pump inlet in the water but the nozzle out. ( Caution.. if you do this, make sure that the tailgate or the rear hatch of your tow vehicle is closed !!) I wanted to start the boat, let it warm up, and watch the engine outlet fitting to see if the water flow changed as the thermostat opened. Well that is exactly what happened. On start up, just a slight trickle came out, within 60 to 80 seconds that water was warm, then the flow about doubled, and inside 3 minutes it was a steady flow.. Not like a garden hose, but steady flow ( of course there is heavy flow out of the other water outlet). I let it idle for another 2 or 4 minutes , and nothing changed. I then got out my Ratech infared heat gun and pointed it at the thermostat housing, and it was idleing at 166F... Very impressive. I could not easily get my infared onto the oil cooler, but I could aim at the 2 hoses entering and exiting the oil cooler, and they were about 165 and 175F. Time to ride.

    We ran almost 20 gallons through the boat, all at race pace on the bouys, zero issues. I finally pulled the boat out of the water, idled it blew out the water box, then leveled it in the same spot as I had done previously, and once again checked the oil level. Zero change from the morning test. I should also report that this boat is not equipped with a catch can yet. I just have a little K&N filter on the end of the nipple on the back of the housing. As most of you know, GIO, or any abundance of oil vented this way will make a real mes in the hull... Zero.. No mess in the hull at all.

    The engineering in the thermostat is the KEY.. I will never do open loop again any other way. I am sure that many members here have had head gasket failures, among other problems trying to nurse along the closed loop system that is so taxed when you start modding these engines. For those of you who live in colder climates, no more ball valves to mess with...

    I give the kit 2 thumbs up, I think Jerry will have them in stock the first of the New Year, or of course you can call Riva, The price is the same, so we should support GH...

    Now it is time to start working on ride plates. With no coolant to mess with, ride plate work is a whole new ball game.

    Attached are a few photos of the install.

    Any Questions, I am happy to answer them.


    Can you report the findings for 04 - 05 RX family as these are the ones with real blow by issues which are enhanced by open loop temps. Can you also put up your open loop water routing diags for the scruitiny and discussion of the GH readers?
    Good work and thank you for your thorough reporting.

  7. #7
    RXP 260 X Short Course Veteran RXP244's Avatar
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    No Probs so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by rick xp View Post
    Did you have any problems with yours?
    Have been running our thermo housing since August and have had basically the same results as Louis. Engine temps can even be varied if needed by changing thermo temp range. I am looking at running one off the oil cooler to increase the water temp through that. Just got to figure out a way that flushing will still work!

  8. #8
    rick xp's Avatar
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    Can someone please post up a diagram on the water routing.

    Thankyou

  9. #9
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    Looks good. Yeah, I heard friday that these were finally ready. What is the temp of the t-stat they used?

  10. #10
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RXP244 View Post
    But I can't help thinking I've seen something like that before.
    I was thinking the same thing.

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