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  1. #1

    Where do hoses on Carby's go to?

    I have bought a 1998 SLXH 1050cc Ski in a large box of pieces cheep, well I thought so at the time. This is my first ski, so its a bit of a learning curve.
    He had popped all the cylinders off the block, Hydraulic-ed it, breaking cylinders, exhaust manifold, water rail etc. He had carefully got all new parts, crank bearings, con rods, cylinders, pistons, water rail, gaskets, rings, every thing needed to put it together. He had used the engine number off the flywheel housing.
    I bead blasted every thing and painted it all, looked great.
    Just before the assembly, I was laying everything out on the bench and getting things organised, checking ring end gap etc. so once I started assembling it I would have no hold ups.
    I put the piston pin into the con rod and it flopped around with 2mm clearance. they were WSM pistons and I thought he had got the wrong pistons, but I couldnt find any Pistons with a 22mm pin (I think thats what it was) then sombody said that the only one with 22mm pin was a 1200cc motor.
    The penny dropped, I went and measured one of the old pistons and found that it was a 1200cc engine and not a 1050cc like I thought I had. Somebody had put in a 1200cc engine and used the old flywheel housing hence all the wrong parts.
    I have spent a lot of time sourcing the parts I need, found a blown 1200cc engine, honed it and bought new pistons and used my original 1200cc rebuilt crank and finally got a motor together.
    The electrics box was a mess but have rebuilt that and is now good.
    Rebuilding the pump also.
    Just thought I would let you know a little of the back ground as to why I dont know where the hoses go on the carbs, as they were all disconnected or not there.

    I have sorted out the 1/8" hose on the RH side of the carbs at the top, these come from the accelerator pump.
    The 1/8" hose at the top and rear of the carb, going into where the choke shaft goes on carbs with Butterfly chokes, This comes from plunger on dash and I am not sure where it is meant to come from, at moment it coming from the main fuel line, is this correct.
    Is the plunger on dash for a choke or Fog Oil
    Next 1/8" fitting on LH side of carbs comming from around the Jet Block area, where do these hoses connect to, on the original carbs they were joined together and blocked off.
    Cheers for any help in this
    Aotearoa
    New Zealand


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Can you post exactly what hull model you have?
    What are the last four digits of the HIN number plate?

    What is the engine number on the side of the crank case?

    Part numbers of the original and replacement cylinders?

    It sounds like your carburetors are set up for a non-factory fuel primer system. The 1/8" hoses are either oil lines from the oil pump (which would be mounted on the front of the flywheel housing), or fuel lines from the primer knob.

    A primer system is designed to inject raw fuel before starting the engine, and it replaces the choke function. Often in a primer engine the choke plates are removed.

    Post pictures of the parts, and we can help you get it sorted out

    The more photos, the better.

    To attach images to a post, reply in Advanced Mode, then scroll down to the Manage Attachments button.

  3. #3
    Polaris SLXH High Performance Triple 1998
    Model no: JSPLE00346J798
    The engine No when I bought it was
    Engine No: WC105TCSP-05 2 Which is a 1050cc engine but in actual fact it was a 1200cc engine.
    The blown engine I have bought to replace it is I think a 2001 Virage Tx 1200cc engine

    Engine № W120-TCSP-03A3
    Carbs, Original ones, 1253204
    Latter ones 1253323
    The choke shafts and butterflys have been removed, one side is blocked off and the other side is an 1/8" pipe fitting going through the choke shaft hole and into the carb, this is coming from the primer on the dash.
    I think you are right about the other 1/8" fitting being from the oiler pump.
    Fog Oil, is this special oil or just marine two stroke, do you use it? I had thought bout joining the oiler lines on the 3 carbs together and up to next the water flush with the line blocked off, have an oil can filled with 2 stroke oil, and before I put it away unplug the line and give it a few shots of oil while its running then turn it off, seems quicker and easier than removing the air cleaner each time or is there some other way you do it.
    I will get some photos asap.
    Cheers

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagleray View Post
    ...Fog Oil, is this special oil or just marine two stroke, do you use it?

    I had thought bout joining the oiler lines on the 3 carbs together and up to next the water flush with the line blocked off, have an oil can filled with 2 stroke oil, and before I put it away unplug the line and give it a few shots of oil while its running then turn it off, seems quicker and easier than removing the air cleaner each time or is there some other way you do it.
    I will get some photos asap.
    Cheers
    Search for fogging oil - lots of info already posted

    Fogging oil is different than 2-stroke engine oil.

    It is recommended that you fog the engine any time it won't be used for a while. If salt water riding, then you should fog after every day on the water.

    Fogging oil is cheap, engine rebuilds are not.

    I think many of us use the aerosol fogging oil (spray can), but Polaris used to sell a fogging kit with a separate fogging oil storage bottle mounted inside the engine compartment, which injected the fogging oil into the carb fuel feed line. The liquid fogging oil displaced the fuel in the carbs, protecting not only the engine internals but also the carbs.

    In later model years the flame arrestor cover has small caps that allow you to spray the fogging oil into the carb intakes without removing the flame arrestor. You may be able to simply install one of those covers onto your engine.

    The oil pump injection fittings have small check valves integrated inside. They require a little pressure to allow the oil to flow through. Not sure how much pressure.

    As long as the fogging oil actually gets injected, I don't see any other problem with using the oiler feed nipples to inject fogging oil.
    Last edited by K447; 02-20-2010 at 12:47 PM.

  5. #5
    casey67's Avatar
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    Just to clarrify , 2-stroke engines need oil mixed with the fuel,from the factory your SLXH had the automatic oiler (oil pump mounted on front of engine,1 oil line to each carb) many people remove the oil pump,block of the carb fitting and pre-mix their oil/fuel. The attached pic is of a carb similar to yours,the yellow cap is where the oil hose attaches.
    The second pic is how the rest of the fuel lines are routed,note; #7 are the "pulse" hoses,that run to the engine block.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagleray View Post
    Polaris SLXH High Performance Triple 1998
    Model no: JSPLE00346J798
    The engine No when I bought it was
    Engine No: WC105TCSP-05 2 Which is a 1050cc engine but in actual fact it was a 1200cc engine.
    The blown engine I have bought to replace it is I think a 2001 Virage Tx 1200cc engine

    Engine № W120-TCSP-03A3
    Carbs, Original ones, 1253204
    Latter ones 1253323...
    Just so all the info is in one place.

    This is a 2001 Virage 1200 engine installed into a 1998 SLXH hull, with the 1998 wiring being adpated to the slightly different 2001 engine electrical.

    ...[installing] the 2001 Virage engine, stator and CDI unit, with the 1998 SLXH LR-23 and wiring.

    The changes I made, oil tank was removed so I put a 33 Ohm resister where the oil sender should be, so it thinks its full of oil.

    Also the gray wire from the CDI, I put a 1N5401 diode in the line to join the tan wire to the temperature sensor. From what I understand, when engine gets hot it will reduce RPM...
    Just to test, if you ground the Tan wire, does the HOT message appear on the display, and also limit engine RPM to about 3500RPM?

    If you post the diagram for how you have connected the Tan and Gray wires together with the diode, we can confirm if you have it correctly configured.

  7. #7
    I havenít fitted a battery yet but getting close so donít know if Hot appears on the display. Will keep you informed.
    My wiring diagram attached
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
    Disconnected water inlet hose off pump, connected garden hose.
    Started engine and ran well, well check timing and carbs, seem to be all working good, requires engine alignment as well

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