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  1. #1

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    FX-SHO Performance Mods - What do you think?

    To date I've fitted to my FX-SHO the Riva Performance Power Filter Kit, Free Flow Exhaust Kit and Intake Manifold Upgrade Kit.

    I want to take it to the next level (both HP and handling), within a reasonable budget and without major engine mods and ECU upgrades at this point in time.

    I won't be racing, just recreational fun. Mainly ski off the coast of Western Australia which is rarely flat, is often fairly choppy.... need the grunt and handling to avoid being taken by a great white shark (we call them "Noah's"). I also take it on the Swan River which has calmer waters and from time to time tow skiers or kids on ski biscuits.

    I've been doing a fair bit of research and come up with the following plan....

    R&D Aquavein grate
    R&D Pump seal kit
    R&D Anti-cavitation cone
    R&D Rideplate
    RIVA Pro-series reduction nozzle
    WORX sponson kit
    R&D C1 Monster wheel (so I can run stock ECU, injectors etc where the Riva wheels you need aftermarket ECU)
    RIVA Power Cooler IC
    Skat Trak 13/23 Impeller
    Riva HKS BOV kit

    Before forking out my hard earned $$$, I would really appreciate feedback from the forum as to what you think of the proposed mods.

    I'm fairly new to the jetski world so your recommendations, comments or sledging are all welcomed.

    Thanks......


  2. #2

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    Your list of mods looks like you have done your homework and should be fine! How ever I think the R&D anit-cav. cone and the Riva reduction nozzle are not going to help much if you get your prop pitch correct and you should save your $ on these two parts. Tommy Jordan

  3. #3
    ercBOOSTED's Avatar
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    Get the intake grate first. Without it you could over stuff and get tossed at high speeds. This is a must have before you do anything else.

  4. #4
    ercBOOSTED's Avatar
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    Also for the intercooler, I wouldn't get the riva intercooler with what you are going to be doing to the ski. I have a frozenboost type 19 that would work fine for what you have and it costs a hell of a lot less. The intercooler itself was $160 I believe and you need a couple other fittings to finish it. Also, JD1 is close to releasing a whole kit really soon that would work great. I am going to be switching to his new kit when it is released. The riva kit works great from what I hear but I don't think you would need that one with the stuff you are doing. Have fun!

  5. #5
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    You've got the bases pretty much covered for a rough water setup...I run a similar setup for offshore riding(see signature).

    I gained .5mph with the anti-cav cone & it does help keep the pump loaded in choppy conditions.

    Save your money on the R&D ride plate...the stocker does MUCH better in the rough. The R&D is a lot shorter than the OEM & doesn't keep the ski hooked up as well. If you want more speed & still keep the rough water handling, send your stock plate to Jim's Performance.

    Good choice on the Riva IC. I wouldn't trust those cheap frozenboost intercoolers with constant salt water use & the amount of pounding it will take from riding offshore. The Riva will set you back a little more coin, but they're really well built & come with their own flush fitting.

    If you've decided on the C1, either keep the stock 83mm nozzle & get 2 Skats: a 13/24 for summer & 13/25 for winter...OR get a 13/24 & Riva adjustable nozzle. The 13/23 will definately be too small if the ski is tuned right. The adjustable nozzle is handy but not a must. It will help fine tune your rpm as weather changes & might save you the cost of having to have a summer & winter prop(assuming you guys ride year round). I used a 13/24 & OEM 83mm nozzle all summer on mine in bathtub water, subtropical humidity & 90-95* air temps & turned 7600-7650 with ease. You'll probably see even more rpm with that Riva IC in hot weather. After the air/water temps dropped just a little(high 70's) I am now into the rev limiter with the 24 & need to swap to a taller prop or go to a smaller nozzle ring. BTW, don't trust the pitches if you order your Skat from R&D. I've seen them as much as a full degree off on the trailing edge. I started ordering mine from Impros...they are $80 cheaper & then I have him true & blueprint them for $70. Every prop I've had him do has come back perfect.

    You WILL NEED a powershot or MAP pressure bleedoff to overide the boost limiter to get the most performance out of the C1. If you don't do this disregard my above recommendations on prop pitch because you won't be making near enough power to turn those pitches. You'll also need to invest in an AFR gauge or handheld AFR meter to tune in the powershot fuel settings. There's already a bung in the exhaust for the 02 sensor...you'll just need an adaptor. I like the Riva one better.

    First & foremost though...REINFORCE THE PUMP TUNNEL!! It's much more common for people who ride in rough water to have them crack. If you crack a tunnel, it's possible for the ski to sink & then you'll be swimming with the Noah's. Forum member 305coco sells prefab reinforcements or you can do it yourself with carbon fiber or fiberglass cloth. You'll find instructions in the Yami how-to section.

    Hope this helps & welcome to the forum dude.

    Quote Originally Posted by ercBOOSTED View Post
    Get the intake grate first. Without it you could over stuff and get tossed at high speeds. This is a must have before you do anything else.
    It's a SHO, not an FZ.

  6. #6
    JD 1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    You've got the bases pretty much covered for a rough water setup...I run a similar setup for offshore riding(see signature).

    I gained .5mph with the anti-cav cone & it does help keep the pump loaded in choppy conditions.

    Save your money on the R&D ride plate...the stocker does MUCH better in the rough. The R&D is a lot shorter than the OEM & doesn't keep the ski hooked up as well. If you want more speed & still keep the rough water handling, send your stock plate to Jim's Performance.

    Good choice on the Riva IC. I wouldn't trust those cheap frozenboost intercoolers with constant salt water use & the amount of pounding it will take from riding offshore. The Riva will set you back a little more coin, but they're really well built & come with their own flush fitting.

    If you've decided on the C1, either keep the stock 83mm nozzle & get 2 Skats: a 13/24 for summer & 13/25 for winter...OR get a 13/24 & Riva adjustable nozzle. The 13/23 will definately be too small if the ski is tuned right. The adjustable nozzle is handy but not a must. It will help fine tune your rpm as weather changes & might save you the cost of having to have a summer & winter prop(assuming you guys ride year round). I used a 13/24 & OEM 83mm nozzle all summer on mine in bathtub water, subtropical humidity & 90-95* air temps & turned 7600-7650 with ease. You'll probably see even more rpm with that Riva IC in hot weather. After the air/water temps dropped just a little(high 70's) I am now into the rev limiter with the 24 & need to swap to a taller prop or go to a smaller nozzle ring. BTW, don't trust the pitches if you order your Skat from R&D. I've seen them as much as a full degree off on the trailing edge. I started ordering mine from Impros...they are $80 cheaper & then I have him true & blueprint them for $70. Every prop I've had him do has come back perfect.

    You WILL NEED a powershot or MAP pressure bleedoff to overide the boost limiter to get the most performance out of the C1. If you don't do this disregard my above recommendations on prop pitch because you won't be making near enough power to turn those pitches. You'll also need to invest in an AFR gauge or handheld AFR meter to tune in the powershot fuel settings. There's already a bung in the exhaust for the 02 sensor...you'll just need an adaptor. I like the Riva one better.

    First & foremost though...REINFORCE THE PUMP TUNNEL!! It's much more common for people who ride in rough water to have them crack. If you crack a tunnel, it's possible for the ski to sink & then you'll be swimming with the Noah's. Forum member 305coco sells prefab reinforcements or you can do it yourself with carbon fiber or fiberglass cloth. You'll find instructions in the Yami how-to section.

    Hope this helps & welcome to the forum dude.


    It's a SHO, not an FZ.
    for every Riva IC that is in a watercraft, there are 20 frozen boost ic'ers, everyone has had nothing but great luck with them.

  7. #7
    Whats that whistling noise? jtskier11's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD 1 View Post
    for every Riva IC that is in a watercraft, there are 20 frozen boost ic'ers, everyone has had nothing but great luck with them.
    And the frozen boost/xs IC's just keep on proving themselves day in and day out. Most people that knock them havent tried them!

  8. #8
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    Your modding plans look great but let me make the following recommendations.


    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer67 View Post
    R&D C1 Monster wheel (so I can run stock ECU, injectors etc where the Riva wheels you need aftermarket ECU)
    Just a point of clarification here. You do not need an aftermarket ECU to run the the Riva B1 supercharger impeller or R&D C3-11, only a R&D powershot module is necessary.


    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer67 View Post
    RIVA Power Cooler IC
    This is a great intercooler, but overkill if you are only going with a C1 supercharger impeller. If this is the case then maybe consider the Riva stock intercooler upgrade. You can have a look at it here. When using the greenhulk coupon code in the store this kit only costs you $224.96

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1268



    .

  9. #9
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Hulk View Post
    This is a great intercooler, but overkill if you are only going with a C1 supercharger impeller. If this is the case then maybe consider the Riva stock intercooler upgrade. You can have a look at it here. When using the greenhulk coupon code in the store this kit only costs you $224.96

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1268



    .
    It kinda depends on how you ride, assuming he rides in hot weather like us. The C1 makes a lot more heat than the stocker. With the stock SC & R&D cooling kit(stock core) I was seeing IAT's up around almost 160*. I wouldn't be surprised to see them nearly 180* running the C1 without a better IC if you hold WOT for 10-15 min at a time. I think that Riva kit will be a great upgrade for stock boost, but doubt it will keep up with a C1 if you're going to flog the boat on long rides in hot weather.

    The R&D core & cooling kits cost me only a few hundred less than what the Riva cooler runs & the best summer intake temps I was able to get out of my current setup was 150-155*...adequate at best. I decided on the core upgrade because I didn't want to get into a fabrication project, but if the Riva cooler or JD1's setup had been available back then, I think it would've been money better spent instead of trying to squeeze more performance out of the tiny stock housing.

  10. #10

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    Flyer,
    I have the RIVA IC and as they sayit's probably an over kill. But I do have intentions on going with a B1 or C3 depends which I can get for cheaper. I went the RIVA over the Frozen Boost because of the independent flush kit and I liked how the BOV sat. Now It did cost me more $ obviously but with some things I prefer to have a "name" behind it. But I'm doing 70.6 and I know people doing 83+ with the FB intercooler, so I would say you should be good with either. But I did hear the RIVA is a bi**h to install.

    I'm in the same boat as you with not wanting to go with an aftermarket ECU adn I'm not going to be doing any serious racing. 80% of the time it's me and my 5 year son but he has hunger for speed that rivals a race car driver lol. I feel once I can get to mid 70s I knwo I will be able to at least hold my own as there are not that many people that want to spend 2500 on an ECU.

    I'm just not sure about going with the PowerShot as I've been reading about some failures recently and everyone that I know from where I live ran the C3 and B1 without and were seeing ~74mph.

    Keep us updated and good luck.

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