Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1
    Kelly_A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    660
    +1
    17

    Flo-Rite install FZR/S

    Just thought I'd do a quick write-up on my install of two Flo-Rite vents. Since my FZS will see some rough water, I opted not to do the cowl cut-out and drill, as outlined in the Green Hulk's FZR Build Up thread. My method won't improve airflow anywhere near that amount. I wanted to find a location for the Flo-Rites that was protected and with as little visibility as possible. I settled on the flat surface, just in front of the cowling and under the front hood. I checked clearances and found there's about 1/2" between the top of the FR and the underside of the hood. Basically, the Flo-Rites are pulling air from the gap that extends across the top of the hood and over the gauge cluster.

    Install is really pretty straightforward.

    1. Trace a light pencil line on the plastic just ahead of the cowling. You can just see this line arcing up from the masking tape in the first pic.

    2. Remove both cowlings (you could probably do this with the cowlings on, but the hole saw generates a lot of shavings & it's a plus to have access to the underside of the Flo-Rites to make sure all three retaining clips lock into position.)

    3. Roll a length of masking tape into a loop and lightly stick the loop on the rubber pad under the hood. Apply the tape so that it's flush with the inner edge of the pad. Gently close the hood, transferring the tape loop from the rubber pad to the plastic. Smooth out the tape.

    4. Using the tape edge & pencil line to define your working area, center a 2 1/2" hole saw bit and drill a hole on each side (Pic 2). A towel below will catch most of the shavings. As an aside: I realize there are instructions out there (from one of Riva's Sea-Doo rear air intakes) that call for a 2 3/8" install hole. That's what I used and it required tons of sanding/grinding to enlarge. Go with the 2 1/2" saw, life will be better for you.

    5. Remove the tape and wipe off the pencil line. Clean up all the shavings (it's amazing just how many there are, huh? )

    6. Using a box knife, trim any flash from the two "V" shaped areas on each of Flo-Rite retaining clips so that the clips can compress evenly. Snap the Flo-Rite vents into the holes you cut. I did this by seating one clip, then gradually working in the other two. Spinning the Flow-Rites in the hole will ensure all clips are seated (this is why removing the cowlings helps).

    7. Reinstall both cowlings. That's it.

    With the hood closed, the Flo-Rites are completely invisible and at least partially protected from direct splashes/waves. I used a shop vac to verify flow with the hood closed. No loss of pressure, despite the tight clearances.









  2. #2
    hitman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    4,328
    +1
    12
    I have two of these sitting in a box somewhere that I still have not installed. I was thinking it would be more beneficial to put them on the rear of the upper deck to allow heat from inside the hull to escape, rather than just allow more cool air in with no where to go once it's been heated up.

  3. #3
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northeast Indiana
    Posts
    2,924
    +1
    11
    Nice job. I likey.

    What do you mean by checking flow with a shop vac?

  4. #4
    Kelly_A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    660
    +1
    17
    Rear vents were my original plan. There's sufficient room for two installed in the deck beam on either side of the seat pin, but that wouldn't leave a lot metal there to support the pin & I was worried about the rider (s) weight on the beam. I cut out some 2 1/2" paper circles and tried moving them around on the beam. You wouldn't have to worry about the seat compressing and hitting the Flo-Rites, but portions of the seat pan would come very close. As you move the cutouts toward the pin the clearances get better, but my concern about structural integrity with the pin gets worse.

  5. #5
    Kelly_A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    660
    +1
    17
    What do you mean by checking flow with a shop vac?


    Sorry, I wasn't too clear about that. It was nothing high tech. I was worried that closing the front hatch would impede airflow. I had the shop vac out to clean up shavings, so while the cowlings were still off I used the shop vac to test how well the Flo-Rites pulled air with the hood closed. I basically just listened for a pitch change to indicate the vac was having trouble drawing air. Didn't hear a change so I'm assuming there wasn't much restriction.

  6. #6
    hitman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    4,328
    +1
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by Kelly_A View Post
    Rear vents were my original plan. There's sufficient room for two installed in the deck beam on either side of the seat pin, but that wouldn't leave a lot metal there to support the pin & I was worried about the rider (s) weight on the beam. I cut out some 2 1/2" paper circles and tried moving them around on the beam. You wouldn't have to worry about the seat compressing and hitting the Flo-Rites, but portions of the seat pan would come very close. As you move the cutouts toward the pin the clearances get better, but my concern about structural integrity with the pin gets worse.
    If I was going to install rear vents I wouldn't put them under the seat. I would put them in on the rear deck on the sides of the fiberglass right underneath the rear seat position. Only thing that sucks is you would have to holesaw the fiberglass but the air passing by the vents on the outside of the ski would help to draw out the hot air trapped inside. Anywhere else I can't see these making much of a difference. Just my .02.

  7. #7
    txgp1300r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Dallas , Texas
    Posts
    3,382
    +1
    165
    Quote Originally Posted by Kelly_A View Post
    What do you mean by checking flow with a shop vac?


    Sorry, I wasn't too clear about that. It was nothing high tech. I was worried that closing the front hatch would impede airflow. I had the shop vac out to clean up shavings, so while the cowlings were still off I used the shop vac to test how well the Flo-Rites pulled air with the hood closed. I basically just listened for a pitch change to indicate the vac was having trouble drawing air. Didn't hear a change so I'm assuming there wasn't much restriction.
    Thats a good logical idea how much cfm does your vacume cleaner pull ?

  8. #8
    Kelly_A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    660
    +1
    17
    how much cfm does your vacume cleaner pull

    I have absolutely no idea, but I used it to de-chrome my trailer hitch.

  9. #9
    Addicted Member 5001craig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northeast Indiana
    Posts
    2,924
    +1
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by txgp1300r View Post
    Thats a good logical idea how much cfm does your vacume cleaner pull ?
    Mine has 179: http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/14-Gallo...c/EN/index.htm

    Going to go suck-start the snowblower with it now.

  10. #10
    superair's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Smith Lake, Alabama
    Posts
    424
    +1
    20
    Here is some picks of my install, as you can see I am using the same thought process as Hitman. I did go one step further and also installed a blower with a water proof push button switch on the dash to one of the cowl hoses. The other cowl hose goes directly into my intake.

    Matt
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN1660.JPG 
Views:	114 
Size:	749.1 KB 
ID:	166839   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN1659.JPG 
Views:	123 
Size:	770.3 KB 
ID:	166840   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCN1658.JPG 
Views:	96 
Size:	716.3 KB 
ID:	166841  

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Flo rite install position
    By rxp12 in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-18-2009, 12:45 PM
  2. Question about flo-rite install.
    By mksmi in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 12-27-2007, 12:08 AM
  3. Flo Rites
    By eclipsecleaning in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-20-2007, 01:51 AM
  4. Flo-Rite Install
    By JFizzleJR in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 07-28-2007, 11:23 AM
  5. Flo-Rite vents
    By wavehummer in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-20-2007, 09:24 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •