01-06-2010, 05:23 PM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
04 GTX Supercharged models, what to look for?
Per my father in law's instructions, I was to find a couple of skis to take to our beach house that would be family friendly. So, I looked all over - ebay, craig's list, local, asking around - and finally found two 04 GTX Limited Supercharged models on a double trailer for a pretty good price. Both skis had 60 hours on them and were in pretty good shape, the only issues I could find were slight fading of the yellow gell coat and about a quarter sized crack in one of the rear corners above the bond rail. Long story short, after water testing and two good days of wet sanding, buffing and polishing, some bondo and an OBX sticker, the skis literally look brand new. Both are bone stock and GPS right at 60mph.
Here is my question, is there anything I need to do to these at 60 hours to ensure reliability? These are for my family, not looking to be king of the waterway. For the most part, these will be used to put around on, pull skis and tubes, and just basically have a good time. I also have two blasters that will be staying down at the house for myself and the nephews to tear it up on.
Any input? I assume the supercharger washers need to be updated. I have winterized the skis and plan on doing this in the spring along with oil changed, etc. Anything I am missing?
Thank you in advance, Happy New Year to everyone.
01-06-2010, 05:26 PM #2
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Crest Hill, IL
Do not ride them again until the clucthes are changed...After that, normal oil changes and such and you are good to go
01-06-2010, 05:29 PM #3
If they are supercharged,you should be getting better then 60 on a gps..... (imo)
01-06-2010, 06:39 PM #4
IMO if it a family ski id stick with the 155hp none supercharged skis... theres alot less maintinance on them and are almost built proof. If I wasnt a speed junkie I wouldnt have a sc ski, just my 2cents.
01-06-2010, 08:18 PM #5
a GTX is not going to chew clutch washers like an RXP. Top speed should only be about 62-63 depending on the weather. 60 hours is nothing and they might be fine. New plugs, fresh gas and you will probably have a couple of good family machines. I thought in 04 the GTX LTD was 2 tone blue. The regular GTX SC was yellow and black.
01-06-2010, 08:28 PM #6
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
We got the yellow/black sc models. They are very clean inside and seem to run fine. I wasn't trying to really get a great number on GPS, just held it in my hand while testing one to see what it would do, I really had no idea.
I am going to change plugs, do the washers and change the oil in the spring before we turn them loose to the family. Hopefully, this will be the end of my 'work' for this, lol.
01-06-2010, 08:56 PM #7
<--- Look to the left at the link to send the superchargers to Jerry (Greenhulk) to get the washers replaced and inspected. He'll take care of you.
Also, the GTXSC should see about 61 or 62 on GPS, but maybe a little less depending on several factors, the most obvious being overfilled oil.
01-06-2010, 09:34 PM #8
have you checked the wear rings/ impellers?
if you are getting the SC's rebuilt, then you are good to go. a few basic mods will get the skis doing 66.
boost leak could be what is keeping you from getting stock ski to 61-62 mph...
what are your max rpms?
should be 7550-7650 stock .
also could be opas flippers are dragging unevenly, you gotta ride them a while to feel if they turn /hook one way harder than the other, or if one flipper is causing a bigger rooster tail than the other when riding straight.
you can do a simple 4 $ mod to pin the opas flippers up, look up "opas blockup"
its basically 2 pieves of pvc cut to snap over the opas shaft, i cant rememebr the exact dimensions, works perfect, unless you wanna remove them compeltely...
any chance you are doing any mods???
01-06-2010, 10:21 PM #9
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
I did notice that one side of the opas seemed to be more outward than the other on both skis, maybe that is the issue. But, to be honest, I am happy with 60, these are for the family. If they were exclusively for me, then I would be all over modding them. LOL I think that is just the 'guy' way.
Thanks everyone for your input. Any more would be appreciated. I think these will be perfect once I get the sc's rebuilt.
01-06-2010, 10:34 PM #10
I have an 04 GTX SC LTD ( 2 tone blue)..love the ski! (39 hrs) Rebuilt SC.. did the ride plate holes..checked OPAS..Ok ...64-65 mph on GPS(depending on conditions) pulls 7650 rpms.
There is a thread you might want to look at...10 WAYS TO BULLET PROOF YOUR 4 TEC.
I went through this list and found alot with my ski.
Bullet-Proof Your RXP/RXT/GTX 4-Tecs...
This is a copy of the list that GP posted at SDN.
When he presented it to SDN, I made sure I copied it for future reference. Something to keep in your ski file...
(For Earlier 2003, 04, and 05 model ski`s.)
1- Make sure your unit has had the hood-latch update done.
This warranty campaign has expired.
2- Make sure your knock sensor update is done if your unit
This warranty/dealer campaign also expired.
3- Add clamps or stainless-tabbed zip-tyes to your bailer tube check valves, the gray ones inside the rear area of your hull. (All)
4- Make 110% sure the bailer tubes themselves are securely inserted in the venturi.
5- Secure your bailer hose plastic 90 degree elbows up high in the hull. NEVER allow them to lay low in the hull or water will injest instead of remove.
6- Never accelerate "throttle to the bar" unless you are at least in 5-6 feet of water to avoid pump/impeller/wear ring damage.
7- Anytime the stock intake Grate is going to be removed, always use direct heat on the bolts to free loc-tite. I use a very heavy duty soldering gun as open flames are not safe for the area. Many broken bolts can be avoided this way.
8- When not in use always store with the seat removed to allow all moisture to escape into the atmosphere and not find it`s way into your precious electrics, we fix many machines that have eleectrical demons that are easily avoidable with this and some well placed, light mists of WD-40 or a similar product.
9- Fog the engine with the appropriate lube. WD-40 isn`t the right one for fogging.
10- 80% of the hull repairs we do were not done by the owner..... be carefull who rides your PWC especially at the speeds they are capable of these days.
11- Run a blow-off valve for the supercharger clutch longevity, it provides no real power gain, but is a big reduction in the abuse that is an actual "good method" of solving a tuogh problem that Rotax had to address when developing this set-up. This keeps the SC shaft from snapping when the pump loads and reloads at high RPM`s and heavy loads.
12- You can take this to the highest level of protection by using a heavy duty clutch kit from Rotax Racing and combining it with a BOV.
13- Always avoid running anywhere near any ropes or ski-ropes as they can destroy your hull`s thru-hull passage for the driveshaft. Most other models are easy to repair in this area, but NOT the RXP though, it can be extremely damaging and it is equally if not harder to repair.
14- Always check your engines oil level when it is at absolute poerating temperature and sitting level. Optimum height on the dip stick is 1/2-3/4 of the way up the indentation on the stick. This is the number 1 cause of engine RPM lose closely followed by damaged impellers, wear-rings and slipping SC clutches.
15- Replace the spring clamps at the heat exchanger plate spigots with high quality hose clamps.
16- Replace the Exit Exhaust Hose with a quality metal tube designed to handle water and not rust or corrode.
These are the things we see as a high volume servicing Sea-Doo dealer, and as a high performance shop. I am sure I missed a few but hopefully this list will help many. Quoted by GP @ PPG
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