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  1. #1
    lashk's Avatar
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    Did I screw up!!!!

    The boat: 2004 Sportster Le Di (951)...In a hurry I tried to add coolant to my engine because it is going to get down to 20 deg Thursday night. I had a owners manual and a shop manual I was trying to use and both were different. I went with the owners manual and this is what happened. I removed the water inlet to the regulator on the exhaust (see diagram) and pinched the inlet hose from the pump. I then poured coolant into the disconnected hose with a funnel and watched the drain line on the engine. Instead of coolant coming out of the engine drain it came out of the hose that goes to the Air compressor silencer. No coolant was seen in the engine drain. Could I have messed something up like get coolant in the cylinders? I started the boat and ran it for about two 30 second runs, fogging the intake on the second time, and then removed the plugs and sprayed a bunch of fogging oil into the cylinder. When I removed the plugs I didn't see any evidence of coolant on them. By the way, this was my first attempt to winterize my boat.
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  2. #2
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    just a question but why are you winterizing in LA? if ti gets below 32 for a couple hours a night your gonna be ok it takes a while for water to freeze. for example, lets say for a week the low is gonna be 32 and the high was 50 during the day. the time it takes for the temp to drop that much water will not freeze in the few hours it has to do so. on the other hand, if its below 32 all night for a couple nights thats a different story. you need to winterize then...does that help? or do you want to do it for piece of mind?

  3. #3
    lashk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    just a question but why are you winterizing in LA? if ti gets below 32 for a couple hours a night your gonna be ok it takes a while for water to freeze. for example, lets say for a week the low is gonna be 32 and the high was 50 during the day. the time it takes for the temp to drop that much water will not freeze in the few hours it has to do so. on the other hand, if its below 32 all night for a couple nights thats a different story. you need to winterize then...does that help? or do you want to do it for piece of mind?
    Last year it snowed 8 inches in Baton Rouge, La and stayed freezing all day. The power was knocked out for two days so I had no way to heat my uninsulated garage except for a geneator. Yes, I'm doing it just in case as the low the next couple of nights will be 20 deg.

  4. #4
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    A DI is a little more vulnerable to freezing than a carbed 947.

    Since that line that you disconnected is the only place water can get into the exhaust you could not have gotten any into the engine (the inside of it, that is).

    I would think, though, that you would be better served to also block off the lower drain hoses (cylinder, and case cooler) and remove the hose from the fitting on the head and pour it in there (this is where I add AF when I do my carbed 947s).

    Fill till it will not take anymore and then remove the block-offs. It may start coming out where it did (this is good since that is the top of the water jacket on the pipe and then into the air comp). When that happens you are done, just pull the blocks and let the extra run out.

    Basically, just make sure the case cooler gets AF into it (though, on second though, you could just pull the hose to the front of it-the one on the mag-and pour it right in).

  5. #5
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    just a question but why are you winterizing in LA? if ti gets below 32 for a couple hours a night your gonna be ok it takes a while for water to freeze. for example, lets say for a week the low is gonna be 32 and the high was 50 during the day. the time it takes for the temp to drop that much water will not freeze in the few hours it has to do so. on the other hand, if its below 32 all night for a couple nights thats a different story. you need to winterize then...does that help? or do you want to do it for piece of mind?
    we got a artic freeze, wind temps will range around 0 F, and we will have a hard freeze thursday and friday.

  6. #6
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    It has been in the teens every morning this week and a high of 40ish for the rest of the day...IN South Carolina.

  7. #7

    Smile

    I'm not trying to discourage those who do use anti-freeze however unless you have a case cooler or on some models oil to H20 heat exchangers,on most of older two strokes no anti is needed.none came out other line due to that opening only when engine is running,I live in east texas and this is first hard freeze we had in few yrs,winterize normally means long term storage for us.However you really dont have to worry about water in the water box,and I usually just start engine without water hose and blow all water out of exhaust (most of it) like you do when you pull boat out of water after running it.OH you dont do that??well its a great practice and will extend the life of your PWC engine powered boat or jetski .MOst jetboat owners think they will damage waterpump (like you do if you run outboard on inboard outboard ,out of water.Not true if you have a rotax or yamaha open cooling system(they get water from jet pump) just start engine bip throttle few times and shut it off, clears most water out of engine and exhaust.The main reason for even putting antifreeze in this type of boat is if its run in saltwater is to prevent corrosion to the aluminum as it sits during winter,not to keep it from freezing up.usually here in texas we just drain all the hoses and manifolds,if theres a few drops left in hoses or manifolds even at 25deg. for a few days theres no problem,(longest period of below freezing I can remember is 89 or90 where even my rye grass froze (11days in 20's)I think youll be fine,If you want to get every last bit of water out,you can open hoses and blow air through them,(not necessary )and the water it btm of waterbox(metal )has plenty room to expand there is only few inches in there.JMHO.>Marvin

  8. #8
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjetskey View Post
    I'm not trying to discourage those who do use anti-freeze however unless you have a case cooler or on some models oil to H20 heat exchangers,on most of older two strokes no anti is needed.none came out other line due to that opening only when engine is running,I live in east texas and this is first hard freeze we had in few yrs,winterize normally means long term storage for us.However you really dont have to worry about water in the water box,and I usually just start engine without water hose and blow all water out of exhaust (most of it) like you do when you pull boat out of water after running it.OH you dont do that??well its a great practice and will extend the life of your PWC engine powered boat or jetski .MOst jetboat owners think they will damage waterpump (like you do if you run outboard on inboard outboard ,out of water.Not true if you have a rotax or yamaha open cooling system(they get water from jet pump) just start engine bip throttle few times and shut it off, clears most water out of engine and exhaust.The main reason for even putting antifreeze in this type of boat is if its run in saltwater is to prevent corrosion to the aluminum as it sits during winter,not to keep it from freezing up.usually here in texas we just drain all the hoses and manifolds,if theres a few drops left in hoses or manifolds even at 25deg. for a few days theres no problem,(longest period of below freezing I can remember is 89 or90 where even my rye grass froze (11days in 20's)I think youll be fine,If you want to get every last bit of water out,you can open hoses and blow air through them,(not necessary )and the water it btm of waterbox(metal )has plenty room to expand there is only few inches in there.JMHO.>Marvin
    Are you making this up as you go along?

    Have you ever pulled the water inlet hose off a 951 after it has been in the water? If you do (drum roll please) it has water sitting in the head.

    Yes, starting it up and blipping the throttle is a very good practice on these machines. It blows EXCESS water out of the water box. It will not, however, get anywhere near ALL the water out and will get absolutely NONE of the water out of the engine other than what drains out naturally.

    The ports on a 951 head and cylinder that allow the water to flow down and thus out into the manifold (with some of it going to the cylinder drain) are higher than the water inlet fitting. The cylinder drain, which is ALWAYS open, BTW, lets most of the water out of the cylinder, but there is still a good bit trapped up in the head. Just enough, say, to freeze and do all kinds of expensive damage.

    You can blow a good bit of it out with air, as I do before adding the RV type anti-freeze. But, for that peacefull, easy, feeling, why not put the AF in it? It is all of what, 4 bucks for a gallon (one gallon will do up to three carbed 951s I know) and it is not particularly difficult (though a DI is a bit more complex).

    The water box is not really a concern to freeze and yes, it would take a rather long, hard freeze to be a real danger, but you never know, right? It is, however, much better to do this at say 60 degrees in October/November, than at 20 degrees when you realize that it might just be cold enough, long enough, to damage your boat.

  9. #9
    mibunkerking's Avatar
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  10. #10
    Tool Bag water worx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjetskey View Post
    The main reason for even putting antifreeze in this type of boat is if its run in saltwater is to prevent corrosion to the aluminum as it sits during winter,not to keep it from freezing up.
    My guess is he is making it up.

    It is called "antifreeze" for a reason,its not called anti corrosive.

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