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Thread: Hot SLTX

  1. #1
    reddave6400's Avatar
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    Hot SLTX

    Has anyone come across/cured a 97 SLTX 1050 that seems to overheat?
    I have done a search but can't seem to find a post where the ski has the same problem.

    So far I have tried: removing the thermostat and plunger, I have performed a cooling rail mod with front mounted pisser, checked the screen/o-ring on the jet unit and all hoses, fitted a new exhaust mounted temp sensor, rotated the heads 180' so the ex stamp faces the exhaust port (engine reconditioner didn't know) and rebuilt the engine (twice).

    The problem happens when I go for a high speed run or load the ski through long sweeping turns, it goes into "HOT" mode and limits rpm etc.
    Last time out I felt the water comming out of the pisser after a run and it didn't feel particularly hot at all. The ski has done this with all engines and both original and new sensors.


    Some of my thoughts are:
    • blockage in the water feed to the pipe/expansion chamber
    • electrical fault of some type?
    • lean jetting? (plugs and piston wash look good)
    • retarded timing? (ski performs really well)
    • crank index (has had the crank re-built twice)
    any other ideas or help would be really appreciated.

    Cheers, Dave.


  2. #2
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Have you took a look in the elect. box yet? maybe open it up and make sure all connections are clean and tight.

  3. #3
    FLjoyrider's Avatar
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    Next time check your exhaust pipe temp.. I'm not sure on yours but I know the seadoos have an exhaust temp sensor and sometimes the sprayers get clogged (or mixed up) for the wet exhaust then it will overheat your pipe!

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
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    I think you should check the actual temp,so you could start looking at actual overheat (mechanical/ water flow) or a false warning ( electrical)

    The temp sensor closes (grounds ) at 160 degree F / 71 C

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Check the exhaust water injection screen and orifice for clogs. That is the smaller water hose on the exhaust pipe.

    Pisser? Is the cooling system modified from stock?

    Post some photos of the cooling system, it might not be correctly configured.

    Trace the Tan wire all the way from the Temp sensor back to the electrical box. Make sure the wire is not frayed or pressed against the engine anywhere.

    A replacement Temp sensor is not expensive. It might be worthwhile to order a replacement anyway.

    Make sure there is no corrosion or signs of moisture inside the electrical box. Check behind the terminal board too.

    Are the thermostat and by-pass plunger in place inside the thermostat housing? Any signs of wear or clogging in there?

    When the engine cooling is working properly, you should be able to put your hand on any part of the engine or exhaust without burning yourself. If you can hold your hand on it for a few seconds, it should feel 'very warm', but not painful. About 140F.

    If your engine or exhaust is getting hotter than that, then it is overheating.

    Right after you get the HOT warning lift the seat (or go riding without it, just be careful out there). If you drip some water drops on the engine or exhaust and they sizzle, that is way too hot.

    Check the water inlet screen inside the jet pump exit nozzle. The mesh screen is hard to see inside on the right side.

    If you want to thoroughly check the water feed from the jet pump, remove the jet pump, and check the entire cooling water flow path for clogs or restrictions.

  6. #6
    reddave6400's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

    I have modified the cooling system as per this (#9)

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...ht=cooling+mod

    The temp sensor is in good shape (only done 6hrs) and behaved the same as the one I replaced. The sensor was really expensive to buy in Australia,and was a pita to fit with the exhaust manifold and expansion chamber still on the engine.

    The thermostat and plunger are currently removed and there are no blockages in the housing. I recently replaced the through bearing so I checked the screen and o-ring on the jet unit and they were all good.

    Is there a screen in the 1050's pipe where the 5/16 hoses connect? mine looks to be part of the pipe and not removable.

    Casey's idea of checking water temp sounds good, that way I could establish if the engine or exhaust is overheating. Can anyone recommend a good guage? I would have to buy it on line.

    Hopefully I haven't missed to much of what was suggested, and I will follow up with some pictures of the whole engine/cooling system.

    Cheers, Dave.
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  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reddave6400 View Post
    ...The thermostat and plunger are currently removed and there are no blockages in the housing.

    I recently replaced the through bearing so I checked the screen and o-ring on the jet unit and they were all good.

    Is there a screen in the 1050's pipe where the 5/16 hoses connect? mine looks to be part of the pipe and not removable.

    Casey's idea of checking water temp sounds good, that way I could establish if the engine or exhaust is overheating. Can anyone recommend a good gauge?...
    Did you also check the plastic water tube that goes forward from the jet pump nozzle into the hull?

    Check for any kinks or internally collapsed sections in the water hoses.

    Item 1 5020668 FITTING,WATER INLET
    Item 8 7052128 FITTING,SCREEN,EXH.
    Item 11 5020747 FITTING,INJECTOR,EXH
    .

    Water and engine temps you can check by hand. If it burns you, it is too hot. You can check the water box temp as a proxy for exhaust exit temp.

    Edit: Note that the exhaust water injection is NOT supplied by the small hose from the tee on the main water supply hose (items 6 & 19 in second diagram).

    The exhaust water injection is tapped off a separate nipple (item 8 ) on the exhaust pipe, and feeds the injection orifice (item 11) on the same exhaust pipe. The small hose (item 10) runs from one connection on the manifold to another.
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  8. #8
    casey67's Avatar
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    If your sence of touch is good,try that.

    Otherwise,a no-contact,infa-red type temp reader would work best,could also check each cylinder,pipe and heads. I saw a cheap one at "harbour freight" ,but don't know how accurate it is.

  9. #9
    reddave6400's Avatar
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    Ok I have had a look at the ski, from what I can see the temp sensor is in the exhaust manifold which is fully jacketed. There is a 5/16 hose which feeds from a plastic tee piece in the main feed from the jet unit, so if this is blocked could it cause an overheat? I do note that the manifold gets full water flow and feeds water into the cylinders which cools the whole engine
    I will check it out tomorrow and possibly take it to the beach for a run.
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  10. #10
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reddave6400 View Post
    Ok I have had a look at the ski, from what I can see the temp sensor is in the exhaust manifold which is fully jacketed. Yes,the manifold is fully jacketed. Also the upper half of the pipe is also jacketed and cooled by the water from the large hose ( 3/4" ?)
    From the pipe,the water then enters the manifold and the engine.
    All of those parts should be cool enough to touch.
    There is a 5/16 hose which feeds from a plastic tee piece in the main feed from the jet unit, so if this is blocked could it cause an overheat? Yes. All the hoses and passages need to flow freely.

    The 5/16 hose from the front of the pipe ( has a screen attached to the fitting at top of pipe) injects water into the exhaust stream ,cools the exhaust gasses and keeps the hoses leading to/from water box,from melting.

    I do note that the manifold gets full water flow and feeds water into the cylinders which cools the whole engine Also water from pipe cools the engine.

    I will check it out tomorrow and possibly take it to the beach for a run.
    Good luck, let us know what you find.

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