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  1. #1
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Baaaaaaaaahaaaa d Buy

    I got sheep shanked on my ebay buy. I bought a 1050 complete pump from stator to the nose cone including impellor and stub shaft and of course beearings. A LONG driveshaft came with the deal.


    Sounds like a good deal huh? everything ya need to bolt her up n go. I Paid ? for it and when it arrived, I checked the impellor clearence and it came out to .0020" out. twenty thous is out of spec. So I'm hit there, the leading edge is rough but can be smoothed. no chips,,,


    The driveshaft looks as though someone held onto it with a pair of vice grips to remove it from the motor. Ugh! Splines are fine. both sides. not sure if its straight or warped yet. I'm guessing flat. But should check on glass to be sure,,,, shine a light and roll it.


    The 5-vein has a chunk missing on the blade area inside where the impellor is. about half inch by half inch. White crusty debris in the stator.

    Bearings seem great.

    Nose cone is still attached. Maybe I should take a peek at that too.


    Looks all stock.


    I guess if you did put it on a ski, it would run.. But after seeing some of these issues,I'm not so sure anymore. Can any of these thing be fixed? The blade, driveashaft,impellor edge.?


    I have a brand new 5-vein missing the bearings!. Maybe I could swap stuff around a little. Change the stator,swap bearings,add new impellor i have here and keep same cone and it would be almost new again. A complete setup for a 96 780slx I thinK. The impellor was 5131079. would that be good for a 95SLT?I can add a 4 inch extention on it too or not.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Both SBTontheweb and Impros can restore the impeller back to stock specification, and Impros could probably fix the stator too.

    I don't know what Impros pricing is like, but SBT has a $25 flat rate for impeller refurbishing that is quite inexpensive, and another member reported good results when SBT did his impellers.

    You will have do some digging to find out what the stator repair might cost. If you can find a stainless steel 6 vane stator, you might want to put the money towards that rather than fixing the aluminum five blade.
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  3. #3
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    yeah i'll go with the ss stator. was just hoping to get a decent spare for the slt.. Maybe the driveshaft is going to be ok. Not sure if I can sand it where he used the vice grips on it.

    Can you see where it got grabbed? is that in a critical spot?

    IMPROS did that to your impellor? thats looks great! I guess haveing an extrra impellor around is a good thing. 25.00 isn't that much to fix it. Even if its a little more, thats ok. better than buying a new one.

    This was a xmas gift too. bummer, Too bad the whole pump wasn't in better condition.
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  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    ...Maybe the driveshaft is going to be ok. Not sure if I can sand it where he used the vice grips on it.

    Can you see where it got grabbed? is that in a critical spot?

    IMPROS did that to your impellor?...
    Not my impeller.

    That polished section is where the through-hull bearing and seals ride. If you can file the high spots down until they are not proud of the surface, then whether it will be OK depends on exactly where the sealing lips contact the shaft when it is installed.

    You need the shaft surface to be smooth so the seal lips are not cut (especially the rear seal lips), and it must be able to slide smoothly through the brass (I think it is brass) centering sleeve that is inside the through-hull bearing.

  5. #5
    FLjoyrider's Avatar
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    It's in the through hull sealing area, so just check to make sure your through hull fitting is riding on an area other than the part scuffed up.

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I have a ton of small metal files extra fine and fine. so I'll try a couple small files and gently get the nubs knocked down. Should I sand and polish it too? Like with 400? or 600?

    I highlighted the scratches with red marker so you can seen them better. This is after I filed them down a tiny bit, then hit it with 400 grit. the other side is ok. just a couple small scratches. Zoom in on the pic and you can see the problems.


    I have a neighbor that tunes and balances driveshafts for NASCAR, and other Companys. I think I'll see if he can take it to work and balance it for me. It's got to be out now, with the pits in it. Especially spinning a longshaft at 7000 rpm's with a 1200cc motor.

    Maybe he could balance it for 10,000 RPMS! We'll see what he can do for me.
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  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    ...I'll try a couple small files and gently get the nubs knocked down.

    Should I sand and polish it too?
    Like with 400? or 600?...
    If the nicks are in the area the sealing lips ride on, then you will need to get it not only smooth, but round. The seals don't like riding on a non-round surface.

    If the damaged area is behind or in front of the front seals, then it just needs to not have high spots and not be so rough that it damages the seals as it slides through.

    When the shaft is inserted into the engine coupler, where do the through-hull seals end up relative to the damaged area?

  8. #8
    Maulin Marto's Avatar
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    I think a bearing and seal kit for that pump is only about $50? why not get the new pump up to speed? I may have that prop too...or send yours to skat? full reweld etc only about $100, like new.

  9. #9
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=K447;
    When the shaft is inserted into the engine coupler, where do the through-hull seals end up relative to the damaged area?[/QUOTE]


    I'll have to check with it in the ski. Ski is stored away at the moment. J

  10. #10
    FLjoyrider's Avatar
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    I've used SBT for a number of impellers. Some had huge chunks missing and one even had a whole fin gone almost completely. No matter what the damage is, its still only $25 to rebuild it. Most of the time they have one already done and they can send it to you as soon as the core arrives, sometimes they don't have any in stock and it takes about a week, but well worth it IMO. They always come back perfect, just like the pic of one posted above.

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