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  1. #1

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    97 sltx rebuild "carolina blues"

    this is a 97 sltx with approximately 200 hours on the mfd. (according to PO, mfd not presently working )

    after hours of studying exploded view diagrams, and hours ( if not days ) of reading threads and most importantly considering the tremendous resources available here on the greenhulk, i've decided to take on the rebuild of my 97 sltx myself. Here's the pics of the mag cylinder posted previously.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=93176

    should finish removing the engine tonight.

    So here's the plan. i have a set of hot seat 92 domes that will go on either a .25 or .5 over wsm platinum pistons to be ordered from jkwaterparts on ebay. planning on sending crank to jeff at midwest. after reading bone's thread i have definitely decided to just replace the ignition system with the upgrade. fuel line replacemnt and carb service.

    questions:
    1. i get a "top end gasket kit" with the rebuild kit. i assume that will be exhaust and intake manifold, , cylinder base, O rings??? for the domes/dome covers. anybody that has purchased these kits were the included gaskets all that were needed? are there any more i will need? it looks like ther are 3 oil seals for the slt780 but none for the sltx.

    2. in reading about engine rebuilds they talk about align boring the crank cases. is this anything i need to be conerned about?

    3. i have all new fuel line to replace the original. what about the carbs? i plan on leaving them stock for now since tony had such good luck with the stock jetting on his. do i need to purchase rebuild kits? or would you recommend just taking them apart and cleaning/inspecting them?

    lot of work to do but i'm having fun so far. i'll post some pcis when there's something to show.

    guys, i appreciate all the help you've all given so far. i'm sure i'll be much more in your debt before this is finished. there's really an incredible wealth of knowledge and talent here and the willingness to help others goes above and beyond what we typically see in this day and age. kudos to you all.


  2. #2

    Carbs

    Clean and inspect the carbs for sure. If needed, buy what you need. Check the diaphragms, they can get crusty and harden up if they have been sitting for awhile. I was able to clean my carbs on the 750 fuji motor and buy some rubber conditioner stuff in a spray can. I filled up a small container and soaked the diaphragms. Two of them returned to a rubbery condition and one had a hole in it and needed to be replaced. There are little filters in there that can get clogged up. I was able to clean mine with a small brush. Strip them down and clean what you can. Inspect for any other parts that can't be cleaned and order what you need. John Ziggler has many of the individual parts. I think the kits come with lots of extra stuff you won't need and do not come with needles or seats. (not sure about that though) Search for a carb rebuild thread. There are plenty of people on here to help you out so JUST DO IT! Post pics, as we love ski porn, it get's way more responses.

  3. #3
    Tony's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pslt780 View Post
    questions:
    1. i get a "top end gasket kit" with the rebuild kit. i assume that will be exhaust and intake manifold, , cylinder base, O rings??? for the domes/dome covers. anybody that has purchased these kits were the included gaskets all that were needed? are there any more i will need? it looks like ther are 3 oil seals for the slt780 but none for the sltx. The WSM kit will have all the gaskets you need. The 1050 has 2 crank seals that will not be in your top end kit.

    2. in reading about engine rebuilds they talk about align boring the crank cases. is this anything i need to be conerned about? Nothing you need to worry about.

    3. i have all new fuel line to replace the original. what about the carbs? i plan on leaving them stock for now since tony had such good luck with the stock jetting on his. do i need to purchase rebuild kits? or would you recommend just taking them apart and cleaning/inspecting them? Take them apart and clean/inspect them. In most cases you'll just need a o-ring or two and that's much cheaper than buying complete rebuild kits.

    lot of work to do but i'm having fun so far. i'll post some pcis when there's something to show. There's always something to show! Remember, we love pic here on GH.

    guys, i appreciate all the help you've all given so far. i'm sure i'll be much more in your debt before this is finished. there's really an incredible wealth of knowledge and talent here and the willingness to help others goes above and beyond what we typically see in this day and age. kudos to you all.There's lots of great members here and I'm only about 1 hour away from you. (Cary) I'll help all I can and hopefully we can get together and ride this spring/summer.
    .

  4. #4

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    Apr 2009
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    winston salem, nc
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    didn't get to work last night. wife reminded me it was family movie night. looking forward to 2nite.

    so will plan on carb disassembly & inspection. check pop off pressure to assess needle/seat condition. i have a bicycle pump with an air pressure guage mounted right on it. could i just cut the hose and attach the hose with a hose clamp and add pressure?

    i really want to go throught the fuel system thoroughly in light of the piston failure.

    looks like it's often the mag cylinder that fails, and i read the 1050's run hot on that cyl. there is sediment on my dome looks like water got to boiling temp if i can find the cord for my camera 2 nite i'll post pics. does the spring and plunger removal from the thermostat assembly seem to work? group k recommends this and leaves the thermostat in with recommendation to replace thermoastat yearly. looks like there are other, more complicated fixes. i like simple if possible.

    i think i can handle the piston pin puller. but i have 2 tool concerns. flywheel puller and pump alighnment tool. this ski had a driveshaft failure which was fixed at the dealership. hopefully it was properly aligned but i want to check it out. am i going to ave to bite the bullet and buy the alignment tool ( before they are no longer available )??

    riding this spring and summer sounds great tony. do you ride jordan lake mostly? i've been wanting to check that lake out.

    allan

  5. #5
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum, let me know if you get out this way. I will try to meet you as well.

  6. #6

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    thanks for the welcome, Sean. i am definitely going to come out and meet you guys this spring/summer. one of the lakes i ride on here is a cooling lake for a duke power plant. in summer it's really too hot. badin//high rock lake are only 15 minutes or so closer than you guys--it looks like i can get to the rt 64 bridge form the office in about an hour or so.

  7. #7
    Tony's Avatar
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    Tools

    I have an alignment tool and puller so you're covered there.

    Jordan is a great place to ski. 14,000 acres and waterfront campsites. I've been to Uwharrie but never skied in Badin...it's about 1 hour 10 minutes from me...I smell a road trip!!!

  8. #8
    seaobin's Avatar
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    I have friend in Greesboro with a stand up or two

    and isnt someone else in Greensboro

  9. #9

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    Apr 2009
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    here's some engine removal pics. right now the engine is sitting on a peice of plywood over the engine. the drive shaft coupler is off but i didn't open up the electrical box so the ignition wires from the box are still attached. questions:

    1. what is the preferred way of handling the ignition wires. open the box and disconnect? or i was thinking cut them off 12 or so inches from the box and install waterproof connectors. my thoughts are this way it would be easy to connect/isconnect in the event of an electrical problem.

    2.does it matter which oil lines from the pump connect to which carb?? i was careful and taped and marked them as i removed them, only to have the tape fall off as the engine came out!

    3. now that the engine is sitting there would now be a good time to track down the electrical problem? when i called about the ski the PO said it would start and run but when i got there and we pushed the starter button nothing. the battey is charged can i just hook it up, ground everything and start looking? there is what seems to me a very good troubleshooting guide in the manual for this which i think i can follow. how would i groung everything?
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  10. #10

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    notice all the deposits (? ) or corrosion on the mag (failed ) piston dome. looks like this has been running hot to me.

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