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  1. #1

    Parts availability

    Im hopeing to use my SL1050 gear to power a little boat which i intend to keep and use for a long time.
    Are all parts for this still available new, either oem or after market? or would i be better to go to another brand of ski.?
    Remembering its all going into a boat, this gives me the option of maybe changeing motors to another brand at a later date?


  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by mohawk1 View Post
    Im hopeing to use my SL1050 gear to power a little boat which i intend to keep and use for a long time.
    Are all parts for this still available new, either oem or after market? or would i be better to go to another brand of ski.?
    Remembering its all going into a boat, this gives me the option of maybe changeing motors to another brand at a later date?
    Theres tons of new and used parts still available ,i really wouldn't worry about it

  3. #3
    cool, the new boats gunna cost me 3 times what i paid for the ski and i just wanted to make sure i was starting on the right track.
    Ill look at ignition upgrades, fule lines and stuff when i swap stuff over, plenty of room too work in a boat rather than a ski.
    Power is allways nice, but its long term reliability that im after, and not being a mechanic i like to keep everything simple.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, your being in New Zealand might affect the quantity of parts available locally.

    The Polaris red 'domestic' PWC engines in general are reliable, easy to service, and have good power for their size and weight.

    The 1050 engine (rated at 120HP) was produced for four years in the US market (1996-1999), while the 1165cc '1200' version (rated 135HP) was sold from 1999 through 2004. They are the same physical size on the outside.

    Fuel economy is fairly good for a carburetor 2-stroke, but it will consume more fuel (at the same cruising speed) than a modern 4-stroke engine, like the Sea-Doo 4-Tec powered example you linked to in this thread.

    If space is an issue, Polaris also made a two cylinder version of the domestic engine. The 700cc engine is rated at 95HP, but there is also a 777cc version (called an '800') that is a little stronger, rated 100HP.

    There are tuners around that can build up one of these engines to higher states of tune, if you want to go that way.

    One interesting aspect of the Polaris engine family is that parts can often be swapped between different versions and years, so there can be flexibility in fitting an engine into a different hull. There are multiple versions of the exhaust manifold and pipes, different intakes, even different carburetor configurations.

    Polaris also made direct fuel injected 'Ficht' versions of both the two and three cylinder engines. Same power ratings, but better fuel economy, and no carburetors to fiddle with. Not really tunable for more power, however.

    Click here for a listing of all Polaris models and engine sizes.

    Polaris PWC related information
    Model history, purchase guide, manufacturer links, batteries, spark plugs
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  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mohawk1 View Post
    cool, the new boats gonna cost me 3 times what i paid for the ski and i just wanted to make sure i was starting on the right track.

    ...Power is always nice, but its long term reliability that I'm after, and not being a mechanic I like to keep everything simple.
    Who is going to do the installation of the engine into the boat hull?

    Has the engine been thoroughly checked for internal health? If not, now is the time, before you go to the trouble of fitting it into the boat.

    Will you be using the Polaris jet pump?

    Keep in mind that the boat hull may present more water drag than the Polaris PWC hull. That means the engine load to RPM profile will be a little different, and the impeller may need changing to optimize the engine RPM at wide open throttle.

    The carb settings and/or jetting may also need to be tweaked, and possibly also the timing curve of the CDI ignition unit.

    Do you plan to put a lot of running hours on the engine, or just a few hours now and then, but plan to keep it for many years?

  6. #6
    If the funds allow i will be getting Bill Roberts (Attack Marine NZ) to build the hull and install the engine and unit. He has alot of experiance with these boats, the link was one of his boats built under licence i beleive.
    I know the previous 2 owners of the ski, its had a total rebuild of the engine and unit with no expence spared.
    I intend to use pump, unit and electrics from the ski plus anything else i can find.
    Its hard to say how much use it will get, but boating some long and dangerous rivers is the plan, my present boat is alitle too heavy to push when stuck.
    Bill has already warned me that unit instalation is critical to performance in these little boats and after watching his demo boat perform on a river run we did i have total faith in his advice.
    This sort of stuff

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mohawk1 View Post
    ...I intend to use pump, unit and electrics from the ski plus anything else i can find.

    Its hard to say how much use it will get, but boating some long and dangerous rivers is the plan, my present boat is a little too heavy to push when stuck.

    Bill has already warned me that unit installation is critical to performance in these little boats and after watching his demo boat perform on a river run we did i have total faith in his advice...
    Well, I would advise a different intake grate than the typical Polaris PWC grate.

    When running in very shallow water, you want the grate to have fine openings to prevent largish stones and debris from getting into the jet pump.

    You have the option of running a short or 'extended' version of the Polaris jet pump, and either none, or one of several degrees of angled 'pump nozzle wedge'.

    There are also several different lengths of Polaris drive shaft, should your installation need something different than the stock SL1050 drive shaft.

    I suggest you consider the larger Polaris MFI display, rather than the smaller stock MFD display. Same functionality, but in a larger format. It might be a better fit and look in the boat's dashboard.

    The Polaris speedometer is driven by water pressure from a small pitot fin in the water tunnel. You may find the speed reading accuracy to be reduced when using it in a different hull.

    The Polaris fuel and oil senders are industry standard;
    33 ohms means full tank, 240 ohms means empty tank (both gas and oil senders).

    Other than the speedo, the only Polaris specific function on the display is engine RPM. RPM is ten times the Hz frequency of the AC signal on the DC biased Yellow wire. The Yellow wire is also used by the LR voltage regulator module to control battery charge voltage.

    Multi-Function Display (MFD)

    MFD, MFI, NGI pin connections, functions

    There are four versions of the Polaris MFI display
    3280292 has a built-in Compass, Depth display, PERC reverse display
    3280371 has Compass, PERC reverse display
    3280370 has PERC reverse display
    3280365 does not have Compass, Depth or PERC reverse display

    Depth sensor options for Genesis and Virage hulls

    MFI special modes (Virage, Genesis)

    Select Metric display
    Hold 1 + 2

    Calibrate Compass
    Hold 2 + 3
    Display shows Calibrate
    Orient display, press 1 (Clock Set)
    Rotate display 180 degrees, press 1 (Clock Set)
    Compcal Stor - Compass is now calibrated

    Enable Depth sensor
    Hold 3 + 4
    Message 'Sonar On' appears
    If external depth sensor is not present, 'Sonar Off' appears

    Ground Oil + Fuel sender wires (Pink + Blue), resets security lock code to 1234


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  8. #8
    the mfd on my ski is dead. The fuse was 5amp and had blown
    It may have blown when the guy jump started the ski when i picked it up, the battery was dead and he used a jump starter pack thingy. I never looked at the screen and we only ran it for a few seconds.
    Ive replaced the fuse with a 250ma fuse but its still dead.

  9. #9
    K447,
    Thanks so much for the info.
    Shane.
    Bills boat.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mohawk7...7605278789479/

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mohawk1 View Post
    the mfd on my ski is dead. The fuse was 5amp and had blown

    It may have blown when the guy jump started the ski when i picked it up, the battery was dead and he used a jump starter pack thingy.

    I never looked at the screen and we only ran it for a few seconds.
    Ive replaced the fuse with a 250ma fuse but its still dead.
    We have heard similar stories before.
    Boosted the battery to get the engine started, but the MFD didn't survive the jolt.

    Bottom line with the Polaris skis - unplug/disconnect the MFD before boosting the battery. Better yet, install a proper/good battery, instead of boosting a junk battery.

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