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  1. #1

    best way to run in stx 15f engine

    well hello guys and girls im sure this topic is going to cause a few disagreements but ill ask anyway

    also i have done a search but couldnt find and related topics although im sure theirs plently out there

    so whats the best way to run in the motor most ppl have an opinion on the matter

    who on here has run in their motor hard and what engine problems if any have you had not caused by the rider and what was you top speed befor doing any mods

    and who has run it in as per manual and what engine problems if any have you had and what was your top speed befor mods


    cheers trev


  2. #2
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevs View Post
    well hello guys and girls im sure this topic is going to cause a few disagreements but ill ask anyway

    also i have done a search but couldnt find and related topics although im sure theirs plently out there

    so whats the best way to run in the motor most ppl have an opinion on the matter

    who on here has run in their motor hard and what engine problems if any have you had not caused by the rider and what was you top speed befor doing any mods

    and who has run it in as per manual and what engine problems if any have you had and what was your top speed befor mods


    cheers trev
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    read, follow ,and enjoy for years..............

  3. #3
    I break all my stuff in gradually with respect to excess. My 15F engine pulls strong and it doesn't burn any oil. Manufacturing is so good minimal break in is needed for the rings, I think I went like 5 hours before I beat the snot out of it. Changed the oil at 30 hours which BTW was really clean as was the filter. The rings and pistons fit the cylinders so much better these days that they seal and seat easier, so really you don't need to abuse it to make parts fit right compared to years ago. This goes kinda opposite to what that article says but it even states fits and finishes are so much better too.

    I like to give consideration to the whole engine, gears, cam chain parts main and camshaft bearings, cam shaft lobes etc. For 8 grand or more I don't think abusing the engine right away is wise. If it is broken in under varing load with full power applied for short periods at moderate rpm there should be less debris in the oil and smaller particles. Metalurgy plays a part too. There is a difference between scratching your ass and ripping it apart. Think about it there are lower reving engines built to the same tolerance that break in fine at those rpms.

    I get about 60mph on GPS (63 indicated), got 75 or so hours total on it and have done 3 oil /filter changes. The engine goes all summer without using oil. Plugs are still fine and I've done the steering lube and valve clearance this winter. I still use automotive type mineral oil, nothing wrong with it.
    http://www.boattest.com/Resources/vi...px?NewsID=3729

    http://www.shell.com/home/content/av..._30071255.html

  4. #4
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotortiller View Post
    I break all my stuff in gradually with respect to excess. My 15F engine pulls strong and it doesn't burn any oil. Manufacturing is so good minimal break in is needed for the rings, I think I went like 5 hours before I beat the snot out of it. Changed the oil at 30 hours which BTW was really clean as was the filter. The rings and pistons fit the cylinders so much better these days that they seal and seat easier, so really you don't need to abuse it to make parts fit right compared to years ago. This goes kinda opposite to what that article says but it even states fits and finishes are so much better too.

    I like to give consideration to the whole engine, gears, cam chain parts main and camshaft bearings, cam shaft lobes etc. For 8 grand or more I don't think abusing the engine right away is wise. If it is broken in under varing load with full power applied for short periods at moderate rpm there should be less debris in the oil and smaller particles. Metalurgy plays a part too. There is a difference between scratching your ass and ripping it apart. Think about it there are lower reving engines built to the same tolerance that break in fine at those rpms.

    I get about 60mph on GPS (63 indicated), got 75 or so hours total on it and have done 3 oil /filter changes. The engine goes all summer without using oil. Plugs are still fine and I've done the steering lube and valve clearance this winter. I still use automotive type mineral oil, nothing wrong with it.
    http://www.boattest.com/Resources/vi...px?NewsID=3729

    http://www.shell.com/home/content/av..._30071255.html
    I cant get my ski onto the runway before take off, security always catchs me.........

    Trevs do a search its all been mentioned on the site over and over

    we always get the same crazy ideas that suggest soft breakin...........
    and just remember not to idle at the end of runway before take off

  5. #5
    JET250's Avatar
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    ride it like you stole it from brad.

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