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  1. #1
    commons71's Avatar
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    Polaris Freedom 2004 - Fuel gage-display not fuctioning

    I haven't investigated this in too much depth yet. The gage doesn't fuel level, overheat indication light or buzzer. ( I know this because the ski has tripped the overheat RPM limit with no light or buzzer). I have checked the connectors and the in-line fuse are all fine visually - I will need to start checking continuity. Does anybody know of likely places to start - areas that are prone to have issues or if I can verify if I just need to replace the gage itself?


    Thanks in advance,

    Commons71


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Testing Freedom fuel gauge and warning lamps, fuses, LR-85 and LR-505 modules

    The Freedom model is different from the Virage and Genesis models that use the digital MFI display.

    The Freedom has an analog style fuel gauge (PN 3280445), with a single LED warning lamp for low oil (ON) and overheat (flashing).

    The gauge display is (in part) powered via a fuse in the Orange wiring, and it is not inside the electrical box.

    Look for a splice connector with multiple Orange wires. Open the cover, and check or replace the 2 Amp gauge fuse.

    There is also a Freedom specific Lamp Driver module (LR-85) 4010615 which is not inside the electrical box, but mounted on the side of the support bracket.
    LR-85 (used on Freedom, powered by LR-505).
    LR-85 controls warning LED (Purple/White) and RPM limit signal to CDI (Gray)
    Purple/White wire is 'LED Sync. driver' on Freedom fuel gauge

    Note: There is a completely separate Purple/White wire on the LR-505 module in the electrical box, and it is connected directly to ground in the Freedom electrical box. It has nothing to do with the operation of the Freedom fuel/warning gauge.
    The LR-505 Start/Stop module is also involved. It provides power to the Orange wires, and to the bilge pump. There is a 3 Amp fuse inside the electrical box, and it is just for the bilge pump.
    Does the bilge pump run when you press the Bilge button on the handlebar?

    LR-85 Lamp Drive and Freedom fuel gauge checks

    Lamp Check: Connect together Purple/White wire and Black wire (ground) from harness to turn fuel gauge lamp on.
    Note: I think you can unplug LR-85 module from the harness for this lamp test, but it needs to be plugged in for the other tests.

    Low Oil lamp check: Short oil tank wires together (Blue and Black) to cause warning LED to light after six second delay.

    Overheat lamp check: Short Tan harness wire at Temp sensor to ground to cause lamp to flash (1/2 second on, 1/2 second off sequence)
    This should also activate RPM limit if engine is running

    Note: If engine is not running, press and hold Bilge button to power up the electrical system.

    Note: Overheat warning overrides Low Oil warning.
    Last edited by K447; 02-04-2010 at 12:00 PM.

  3. #3
    commons71's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    Yes. The bilge works fine. All the electrics seem to work fine except that gage (totally - says fuel is empty, and no lamp when RMP-temp sensor is activated). Also no buzzer. Fuses checked out - so now I will start jumpering the wires to see what I can find.

  4. #4
    commons71's Avatar
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    I did the jumper testing for the fuel gage. Disconnected wire harness at LR-85. Jumpered PUR/W to BLK. Lamp lit up. Re-connected wire harness to LR-85. Disconnecte harness at oil tank. Jumpered Blu to BLK. Lamp lit up. Disconnected temp sensor harness at temp sensor. Shorted TAN to ground (BLK). Lamp did not light up.

    I also measured voltage at the fuel gage - 12V as it should be. Measured resistance from PINK to BLK - 128 ohms - which is about right (little less than half a tank I would guess). Fuel gage still says empty (not registering).

    What exactly does the PUR/w (LED sync) line do? Would this affect the fuel level gage to not work? I am wondering if I need to replace LR-85, the gage or both?

    Thanks for any help.

    Commons71

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by commons71
    The gauge doesn't [show] fuel level, overheat indication light or buzzer.

    ( I know this because the ski has tripped the overheat RPM limit with no light or buzzer).
    Quote Originally Posted by commons71 View Post
    I did the jumper testing for the fuel gauge.
    Disconnected wire harness at LR-85.
    Jumpered PUR/W to BLK. Lamp lit up.

    Re-connected wire harness to LR-85.
    Disconnected harness at oil tank. Jumpered Blu to BLK. Lamp lit up.

    Disconnected temp sensor harness at temp sensor. Shorted TAN to ground (BLK). Lamp did not light up.

    I also measured voltage at the fuel gauge - 12V as it should be.

    Measured resistance from PINK to BLK - 128 ohms - which is about right (little less than half a tank I would guess). Fuel gauge still says empty (not registering).

    What exactly does the PUR/w (LED sync) line do?
    Would this affect the fuel level gauge to not work?

    I am wondering if I need to replace LR-85, the gauge or both?...
    To be honest, I am not exactly sure how the LR-85 and the Freedom fuel gauge unit work together. I am working from the wiring diagram, without having ever worked on a Freedom myself.

    When you were doing your testing, was the engine running, or the bilge button held down?

    Is there 12 volts at the LR-85 harness connector on the Orange wire (when engine is running, or bilge button is pressed)?

    My understanding is that the Freedom LR-85 module has two separate functions;
    1) Control whether the gauge LED is ON, OFF, or Flashing, depending on the signals from the oil sender and the Temp sender.

    2) Activate the 3500RPM limit (Gray wire) if Temp input is grounded.

    There are a couple of different ways that Polaris could have implemented the link between the LR-85 and the fuel gauge, and I am not sure which method they used.

    Since the Purple/White wire is labeled LED Sync, my guess is that the LR-85 is not directly driving the LED lamp, but instead sends a special signal to the fuel gauge module, which in turn causes the LED to flash or light up continuously.

    The fact that the fuel level is also not showing, leads me to think the problem is with the fuel gauge unit, not the LR-85 module.

    You say you checked for 12 volts at the fuel gauge. Check the gauge pins and socket carefully for corrosion or damage.

    Also check for voltage on the Pink wire to the fuel sender. It should be less than 3 volts, but should be more than zero volts. If there is very little to no voltage on the Pink wire, that would point towards the fuel gauge being the problem.

    Part number 3280445 GAUGE-FUEL, WARNING 2", 1PC HSNG
    $112 from PartsPitStop

    Part number 4010615 LR 85, EXT. MOUNT, LAMP DRIVER
    $62 from PartsPitStop
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  6. #6
    commons71's Avatar
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    This test was done withe motor off and using the bilge button (which does operate). After I put everything away for the evening I realized I hadn't checked for the 12V at the LR-85 harness - plan to do that tonight. But since the bilge works, it is likely that the 12V is at the LR-85 since they come from the same place on the LR-505-none the less, I will verify.

    I agree, I think the LR-85 just intreprets which lighting sequence to send to the gauage down the Pur/W wire (they do call it a Lamp Driver). I doubt it has anything to do with the fuel level reading.

    I am surprised that the lamp will light in all conditions except the temp sensor shorted state. I shorted it at the sensor harness and also at the LR-85 harness with no luck. The oil lamp lit with the LR-85 harness still attached and shorting at the oil pump harness. So not sure if the temp sensor test needs to have the LR-85 connected or not.

    I have had the ski trip the 3500rmp limit many times in the water while troubleshooting recently - no lamp ever lit. I am pretty sure that the trip has been caused by the faulty sensor. I have not had a chance to verify this due to weather (in San Diego - bad weather?) and this weekend is Super Bowl and likely rain. So still I wait and tinker at home. At least the 3500rmp limit is tripping for safey to the engine if needed and that has to go through the LR-85 right? I will have to look at the diagram to see but that would need to get back to the LR-505 to limit the RPM.

    I will check the voltage across the Pink on the guage harness as you suggested. Thanks.

    I am thinking that both units are having issues since the lamps will light if the lines are shorted and the LR-85 is the one that determines their state.

    Thanks again,
    Commons71

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by commons71 View Post
    ... At least the 3500RPM limit is tripping for safety to the engine if needed and that has to go through the LR-85 right?
    Nope.

    I will have to look at the diagram to see but that would need to get back to the LR-505 to limit the RPM.

    I will check the voltage across the Pink on the gauge harness as you suggested. Thanks.

    I am thinking that both units are having issues since the lamps will light if the lines are shorted and the LR-85 is the one that determines their state...
    The LR-505 is not involved in RPM limiting. The RPM limit signal connects through the gray wire from the LR-85 directly to the CDI module.

    LR-505 is just involved in providing power and some Start/Stop functions.

    I am still leaning towards just the gauge itself being faulty, but I cannot say for sure, of course.

  8. #8
    What are the specs for the sender unit. I have a freedom here that is 3/4 full and the gauge is reading full the pink wire has 29 ohms, does that sound right? do i have to pull the tank out to get the sender out?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTER View Post
    What are the specs for the sender unit?

    I have a freedom here that is 3/4 full and the gauge is reading full the pink wire has 29 ohms, does that sound right?

    do i have to pull the tank out to get the sender out?
    Are you measuring the fuel sender ohms with the fuel gauge disconnected from the sender?

    The normal ohms range for the fuel sender is 33 ohms (full tank) to 240 ohms (empty tank). Note that the sender will read 'full' until the actual fuel level is about 20% down from the top (approximately).

    The fuel gauge itself provides the low voltage for the fuel tank sender.

    The Freedom uses a special LR-85 module to provide the voltage feed to the oil tank sender level switch.
    Last edited by K447; 03-02-2011 at 03:36 AM.

  10. #10
    yes the gauge was disonnected from the sender. I'll do some more checks tomorrow. thanks again.

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