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  1. #1
    Zeke says hi! BLK MAJK's Avatar
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    ECWI on Stock pipe

    Any advantages to adding ECWI to a stock pipe? I scored a Microtouch setup on ebay today (too good of a deal to pass up) with plans to put it on a pipe (rossier or spec 1 when I can find one!). It looks like the stock pipe has a bung where a stinger would be, but it isn't drilled. Could I drill and tap that for a jet (adding a jetworks as well), plug the waterbox and run the ECWI to the head pipe? Wouldn't I need some sort of sprayer at the head pipe? I tried searching but didn't find much. Thanks!


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    You could do all this, but the best people have gotten is just hard jetting the midpipe. And it wasn't hardly any of an improvement. The stock pipe is well oriented for torque, and works good with the stock water injection.

    Aftermarket pipes are designed to produce horsepower at a higher rpm, for all this to work. The purpose of water injection is to fool the exhaust into thinking it has a long chamber for more torque, when it actually doesn't. Then turn off at 5k to allow the engine to rev up to max rpm, where the sweet spot is. The stinger is to cool the coupler, but too much water will burn a piston because it will keep too much heat in the pipe.

  3. #3
    Zeke says hi! BLK MAJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    You could do all this, but the best people have gotten is just hard jetting the midpipe. And it wasn't hardly any of an improvement. The stock pipe is well oriented for torque, and works good with the stock water injection.

    Aftermarket pipes are designed to produce horsepower at a higher rpm, for all this to work. The purpose of water injection is to fool the exhaust into thinking it has a long chamber for more torque, when it actually doesn't. Then turn off at 5k to allow the engine to rev up to max rpm, where the sweet spot is. The stinger is to cool the coupler, but too much water will burn a piston because it will keep too much heat in the pipe.
    That makes sense, especially after doing a little more searching and reading some of your posts. Looks like I will just hold onto the water injection until I find my pipe. I am really looking to increase my hole shot. I have a R&D rec head and pro-k's right now. I am thinking about getting a jetworks to dry out the waterbox and hardjetting the headpipe. What you think about this plan of attack?

  4. #4
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    From my experience too much water will not burn holes in pistons at all.This mod will give great holeshot and mid turn corner pull.

    The stock pipe with water injection responds remarkable well with great low end pull and torque to match. Been running this set up since 99 on a xpl and not once has the pipe overheated or the feed line blocked. The beauty with this system is the feed line never blocks up because it runs a 1/4 inch water flow direct to the head pipe.

    My personal ski (back in 99)was fitted with this with the mpem used to control the solenoid for shutting the water off at 5500 revs. Back in stock class racing water injection wasn't allowed so we had to hide the system that is why we used the mpem to control the solenoid valve.Les cooke was and still is the guru of mpem's so he did the programming.

    Nowadays you can use any water controlling device as long as it shuts the water off at 5500 revs.It needs to be open (on ) all the time so water is filling the exhaust chamber even at idle.The solenoid works best being nearest to the brass fitting as possible. ( we hid it above the fuel tank)

    The trick is to dump HUGE amounts of water into it using a 90 degree brass fitting positioned in just the right spot on the head pipe. The fitting uses a 3/8 or 1/2 inch hole with the water flowing through a 1/4 inch barb fitting. On the head pipe there is a flat spot just above the front carby as per the picture ,drill and tap the pipe and install. Water is fed directly from the main water incoming line (just past the water box "T" plastic fitting) and install another "T fitting using 1/2 x 1/2 x1/4 inch then divert this to the solenoid then to the fitting.

    When set up this would help me get off the line that much faster with great buoy turning pull with very little rev drop through the corners.

    Once set up you can easily test it on the trailer using the garden hose and hang the feed pipe overboard to see if it stop at 5500 revs. Sometimes i have had sticky solenoids that don't shut off very well but that's because of not flushing with fresh water (lazy and too tired). If your revs don't get past 6500 the solenoid is letting water get past so check that first. Easy thing to do with great results.

    And forgot to clarify leave all the stock water lines in place as they work best the way they were designed for.All this does is dump water into the header pipe and shut it off at 5500 revs.
    Few people have done this but when done correctly it works very well.
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  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SURFnTURF View Post
    From my experience too much water will not burn holes in pistons at all.
    I am talking about into the stinger only...not the water injection point at the headpipe flange. Please re-read my post.

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    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    You could do all this, but the best people have gotten is just hard jetting the midpipe. And it wasn't hardly any of an improvement.
    The stinger is to cool the coupler, but too much water will burn a piston because it will keep too much heat in the pipe.
    Makes no difference because it doesnt burn pistons either injecting at the stinger (waist of time) or as I have said in the headpipe and it has been done for almost 10 years with great results.

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    96XPSS's Avatar
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    That would be "waste" of time. On a non-stock pipe, you don't want too much water into the stinger. Or you will burn one.

    You don't know as much as you think you do about pipe tuning. But keep trying.

  8. #8
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    That would be "waste" of time. On a non-stock pipe, you don't want too much water into the stinger. Or you will burn one.

    You don't know as much as you think you do about pipe tuning. But keep trying.
    I just realized it must be winter time over their and the key board races are well and truly out .
    This whole thread is about the adding water injection to the stock pipe and i have answered this , your response is with the usual inexperienced "I know it all mentallity" with no substance . with all my post when i try to help someone I post pictures of real skis and with real world set ups .
    I can say this because I have done this all with alot of skis and get real results,never have I seen a post from you regarding any mods or actual pictures showing your talents.
    But hey you keep on bangin those key boards cause im sure one day you will win some races!!!

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    Ouch! Don't dump all that water in the headpipe it can't squeeze past the stinger, esp as it fills up while at idle, why do you think racers blow out their skis while on the line, to dump the excess water out of the waterbox/system. There are other reasons too.

    I've also been at this for many years as well as RQ and adding A/M ECWI to the OEM pipe is a waste of time and not safe. IMO

    TLR

  10. #10
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLR View Post
    Ouch! Don't dump all that water in the headpipe it can't squeeze past the stinger, esp as it fills up while at idle, why do you think racers blow out their skis while on the line, to dump the excess water out of the waterbox/system. There are other reasons too.

    I've also been at this for many years as well as RQ and adding A/M ECWI to the OEM pipe is a waste of time and not safe. IMO

    TLR
    My take on this at idle water pressure is at its minimum and exhaust flow disperses all the water in the headpipe and does not flood the pipe because it is atomized into the hot gases then exited.
    The stock waterbox will hold heaps of water until blown out and revving engines at the start line is to clear the waterbox and get fuel pressure to the carbs.
    This mod was first done back in 98/99 with les cooke and the stock pipe loves heaps of water as long as it shuts off at 5500rpm.
    Put water injection on a coffman pipe and IMO its a waste of time as revs build so quickly that it doesnt help.The coffmans works best at 7300-7400 rpm so you need to get it their as quick as possible by not slowing down the pressure return wave with water.
    Just as a side point about stock pipes Try revving an OEM 97.5 pipe into the 7400range and see how much power it makes.

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