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  1. #1
    jdmforlife's Avatar
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    QUESTIONS ABOUT A GP1200 whats better

    So i have some question!! Is a long plate then better for bay and ocean riding where its kinda ruff!! I have a riva short plate and the stock ride plate! Should i run the stock then and shim it down??? What would be the best for what kinda riding i do!! And sell the short ride plate and buy a R&D plate!! Thanks
    Also why do people pt bilge pumps in there ski!! Stupid question just kinda new to this!!
    Also intake grates which is better for what kinda water im running in!!
    Last edited by jdmforlife; 02-05-2010 at 05:07 PM. Reason: question


  2. #2
    African-American
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    best for surf riding: singlebar intake grate, shredmaster plate.

    bildge: to keep the water out of the ski's, stock syphon setup costs rpm's and speed..

    browse and search the forum, everything is covered ;-P

  3. #3
    32 Valves To Love! Racecar_Dave's Avatar
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    Stock plate is better than an extended plate unless you also have extended tabs.

  4. #4
    quadzilla's Avatar
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    Lightbulb ??

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmforlife View Post
    So i have some question!! Is a long plate then better for bay and ocean riding where its kinda ruff!! I have a riva short plate and the stock ride plate! Should i run the stock then and shim it down??? What would be the best for what kinda riding i do!! And sell the short ride plate and buy a R&D plate!! Thanks
    Also why do people pt bilge pumps in there ski!! Stupid question just kinda new to this!!
    Also intake grates which is better for what kinda water im running in!!

    Hey there JDM,

    Seems the first couple of posts could be a little confusing..??

    Is it safe to say you own a "GP1200" 97-99 model years..??

    If yes then..??

    A Rough water set up would be something along the lines of:.

    A pump loader style intake grate, either a Pro-tec or R&D are good choices.
    After that you want/need either an R&D ocean pro rideplate, or an early factory one from a 97 GP1200, if you can find one a shredmaster is a good choice also..
    If your ski is pretty much always in the ocean/rough water then an early 0 degree exit nozzle from a 97 is also a good option..
    A set of after market sponsons would also be worth considering though not essential..

    Getting back to the rideplate, generally shimming the rear of the plate for rough water handling is the way forward.
    This is also done in an effort to minimize the porpoising effect these skis are notorious for

    A change of impeller might also be worth considering, depending on the riding conditions..??

    Post what year and any modifications or aftermarket parts are fitted on the ski just now..
    Also how many hours are on it,

    Gerry

  5. #5
    Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but how far should one shim the stock ride plate front-back to help cure the porpoising issue? I have a stock 97 so it has the longer ride plate and zero degree nozzle, but it just doesn't like to stay in the water like my WaveRaider 1100 did. Any help is appreciated!

  6. #6
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    shimming the rear of the plate pushes the nose of the GP down into the water so it'll porpoise less. But it'll causes more drag, so you'll lose top speed, etc. better cure for porpoising is to replace the trim tabs with aluminum tabs and install a scoop style intake grate like [email protected] aquavein, Protec, etc. That'll help keep the hull glued to the water better.

  7. #7
    silvercrxsir's Avatar
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    So what's better for speed,a long or a short plate,I ride in smooth lakes and lookin for more speed also why are the modified rideplates close to $450,what do they do to them that makes them special

  8. #8
    Banned User
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    Modded plates are for speed. Puts the hull out of the water so less resistance. Also they are truedvnd cut which gives more speed as well

  9. #9
    silvercrxsir's Avatar
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    Are there any how to's on how to modify a ride plate and where and how to cut it or is it something that requires a cnc machine or do people like to keep this a secret so they can charge an ARM and a leg

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    shimming the rear of the plate pushes the nose of the GP down into the water so it'll porpoise less. But it'll causes more drag, so you'll lose top speed, etc. better cure for porpoising is to replace the trim tabs with aluminum tabs and install a scoop style intake grate like [email protected] aquavein, Protec, etc. That'll help keep the hull glued to the water better.
    I am currently looking for some 97 aluminum trim tabs without any success. I do believe that will cure most of the control/porpoising issues I am having since I currently only have the right stock trim tab remaining on the ski. I did, however, play with shimming the ride plate of my WaveVenture down in the front and WOW, I was very surprised/impressed by the final result! Once I had dialed in it did a solid 63 mph (on the the dreamometer of course) run across the lake in very mild chop, and that was with me sitting in a normal, comfortable cruising position. Normally, on glass water, I'd have to extend my feet all the way to the back of the ski to maybe get a millisecond blip of 60mp on the dreamometer lol. A solid 3-5mph average top speed gain for $1.49 and 2 hours of my time...I'LL TAKE IT! I will definitely be playing with shimming the angle of my GP1200 when I get a set of aluminum trim tabs!

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