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  1. #1

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    2003 Gp1300R heading the right way? (Mod wise)

    Hey everyone,

    I have owned my 2003 GPR since new, and it is sitting at just over 100 hours at the moment.

    I am wondering if I could get some input into my list of mods that I want to do to the ski. While most people do a mod at a time while they can afford it, I have instead saved up the money to do everything at once as I didn't want to make mistakes when buying something if it wouldn't fit in with everything else later. When I first bought the ski I was given some advice not to mod it straight away as I would not appreciate the mods, this was seven years ago, now after riding a heavily modded GPR, I want that feeling of control and responsiveness.

    I have about $4000-$4500 US to spend, excluding exchange rates and freight to Australia. I am looking to build this up in about 3-4 months time during winter.

    The ski is completely stock except for a D-Plate (Because the cat-con disintegrated), Jettrim Seat + Hydroturf mats. It is in near new condition, except for some scratches on the hull which will be fixed up whilst this is being done. It has been kept in the garage it's whole life (only seeing sun for those 100 hours plus towing time), looked after well whilst not in use and basically could have left the showroom yesterday.

    I want the tail (visibility sprout) retained, even if this means like a 0.5mph loss, I basically want it to look stock and ride hard.

    Thank you in advance, I have tried to provide as much information as possible, if there is anything else you need to know let me know. Nothing is set in stone, everything is free to be changed, I have researched this for about the last week, but I am still nothing compared to you guys.

    Setup for a Closed Circuit Course and 6 inch chop.
    + All riding is done in salt water, we don't have freshwater here.
    + Wave Jumping, good holeshot, acceleration and responsiveness.

    Top end I would prefer mid 80's if possible, numbers don't really matter that much to me, a 1-2 mph top end loss for good holeshot and handling is acceptable to me.

    Going fast in a straight line nearly makes me fall asleep

    ** All prices are just rough guidelines.


    Front End

    - Tag Xt1 Handlebars ~ $110
    --- Need some kind of carbon fibre plate, not sure where to find these.

    - O.D.I Rouge (w/flange) Grips ~ $20

    - Riva Billet Finger Throttle (Black) With Adapter ~ $75


    Back End

    - Impeller ~ $200 - $300
    --- I have no idea which Impeller to get.

    - Worx Intake Grate ~ $165 (0-6inch Chop)
    --- Intake Bolts next larger size
    --- OEM inserts replaced with flat aluminum
    --- Is this the best Intake Grate for my needs? Or would I be better off with a Riva/R&D. I do a lot of ocean riding but only when it is pretty much flat, 0-6 inch chop.

    - R&D plate with FF mod ~$450
    --- OEM inserts replaced with flat aluminum
    --- Make sure ride plate is straight when installed.

    - R&D Trim Tabs ~ $165
    --- Are these even needed over stock?

    - Riva Pro Series Sponsons ~ $220
    --- I like the white sponsons. I would presume that all the aftermarket sponsons are quite similar, and for handling wise, are all better than stock.

    - Leo's Holeshot Kit ~ $250

    - Island Racing Holeshot Kit ~ $170
    --- Stealth Mod Kit ~ $15

    - Tunnel Reinforcement Kit (Fiberglass) ~ $160

    - Riva Pump Seal Kit ~ $80

    - 87mm Bored SHO Nozzle ~ $90

    - Pump Relief
    --- 2 Jetworks Valves ~ $50x2 ~ $100
    --- I presume this is needed for what I will be running.


    Engine Bay

    - Riva Pro Series E.F.I Unit ~ $369

    - Riva Freeflow Exhaust ~ $115

    - Riva D-Plate (Already Installed)

    - Gas Powervalve Kit ~ $130x3 = $390
    --- 99% sure its 1 valve per kit

    - Riva Performance Heads 60T ~ $380

    --- Or perhaps mill my stock heads depending on the price.

    - IR VF3 Reed Valve kit ~ $540

    - Riva Flame Arrestor ~ $90

    +3 deg keyway



    Additional things I am not sure if I need

    - UMI Steering ~ $400
    --- Is this even needed?? I doubt I even need it.

    Head gasket from later model GPR, with larger cooling holes.

    Do I need a Magnum Pump? They are about $1500 or so, and it is quite a bit compared to the rest.

    If there is anything else I have missed feel free to add, or comment about this setup. I am all ears


  2. #2
    African-American
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    very similar to my setup (also 2003gpr)

    R&D plate with FF mod ---> Shedmaster / Stock plate
    FF/Speedplates plates for flat water riding. For surf/ ocean you want to use either the stock plate or a shredmaster.

    Riva Pro Series Sponsons --> Step the stock sponsons
    See how you like that and then decide if you want aftermarket sponsons.

    +3 deg keyway --> +4 degree keyway (WFO)
    since you have an 03, you need +

    Tunnel Reinforcement Kit (Fiberglass) --> DIY Carbon fibre ;-P
    personal preference.

    You will need the updated heavy duty pump and rideplate brackets

    Riva Performance Heads 60T --> Jim modified head
    they work better, dont forget to get the new 05+ head gasket

    Riva Pump Seal Kit -> DIY with 3m 5200
    cheaper and better, need 3-4weeks to cure properly


    T and dump the cooling off cylinder 3
    saves the exhaust couplings

    Ported Cylinders
    if you have the budget, talk to waterwoody / lowell
    +/- us$1500 with new rings

    05+ pump with custom pitched dynafly.
    my guess would be 14/22, if you are ported 14/24

    R&D Trim Tabs
    I went for the extended version, good for holeshot.

    Gas Powervalve Kit --> waveeater/rpm billet clips and couplers
    rather spend the extra on ported cylinders.

  3. #3
    OLD # 7 IEGPR's Avatar
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    Wow, 100 hours with no tunnel reinforcement ? You need to pull the grate and shoe and realy inspect the tunnel for cracks. Even stock skis had poblems in this area.. Do a pump plug kit, you can save money on this if you use 5200 insted of a kit.

  4. #4

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ska View Post

    When I first bought the ski I was given some advice not to mod it straight away as I would not appreciate the mods, this was seven years ago, now after riding a heavily modded GPR, I want that feeling of control and responsiveness.

    That was good advice.


    I want the tail (visibility sprout) retained, even if this means like a 0.5mph loss, I basically want it to look stock and ride hard.

    It is called the "Sleeper" look.

    Setup for a Closed Circuit Course and 6 inch chop.
    + All riding is done in salt water, we don't have freshwater here.
    + Wave Jumping, good holeshot, acceleration and responsiveness.

    You cannot expect huge top speed numbers and great control unless you are prepared to spend some serious $$$$ on juiceing your engine. Many components that enable you to have excellent control on a closed course will slow you down in a straight line race. As Mike Thorne (Pistonwash) would say "quickness kills". That's what you want. You want to get from 1 bouy to the next as quickly as possible and at the same time be lined up and in complete control to make the next turn.

    Top end I would prefer mid 80's if possible, numbers don't really matter that much to me, a 1-2 mph top end loss for good holeshot and handling is acceptable to me.

    Expect the mid 70's.... also expect to get there in a hurry.

    Front End

    - Tag Xt1 Handlebars ~ $110
    --- Need some kind of carbon fibre plate, not sure where to find these.

    - O.D.I Rouge (w/flange) Grips ~ $20

    - Riva Billet Finger Throttle (Black) With Adapter ~ $75

    All of your front end components are for show. They will not enable you to go faster in a closed course race. They will reduce fatigue and so would be helpful in an endurance races or long practice sessions, but closed course racing does not last that long... what about the "SLEEPER" look?


    Back End

    - Impeller ~ $200 - $300
    --- I have no idea which Impeller to get.

    Before you get the impeller, make up your mind if you want to port or not, as well as if you want to upgrade to the 05 pump style. It is my experience that the 05 is better for what you want to use the boat for. Porting (or not) will determine what pitch you need.

    - Worx Intake Grate ~ $165 (0-6inch Chop)
    --- Intake Bolts next larger size
    --- OEM inserts replaced with flat aluminum
    --- Is this the best Intake Grate for my needs? Or would I be better off with a Riva/R&D. I do a lot of ocean riding but only when it is pretty much flat, 0-6 inch chop.

    As far as Worx or R&D 1300/1300 intake... let price be your guide. There are many used ones for sale, and the Modified R&D with the wings cut off are about .5mph faster.

    - R&D plate with FF mod ~$450
    --- OEM inserts replaced with flat aluminum
    --- Make sure ride plate is straight when installed.

    You can make a Shred master faster than stock with a bit better control on a closed course.

    - R&D Trim Tabs ~ $165
    --- Are these even needed over stock?

    Great control with a smoother ride, but you will loose to much top end..... adjust your stockers.

    - Riva Pro Series Sponsons ~ $220
    --- I like the white sponsons. I would presume that all the aftermarket sponsons are quite similar, and for handling wise, are all better than stock.

    It does not matter what you do to your stockers, in aggressive closed course riding RIVA sponsons or many aftermarket sponsons for that matter are better for you hands down. You will be able to do things with the RIVA's you never though of doing with the stockers.

    - Leo's Holeshot Kit ~ $250

    - Island Racing Holeshot Kit ~ $170 AN ABSOLUTE MUST
    --- Stealth Mod Kit ~ $15

    - Tunnel Reinforcement Kit (Fiberglass) ~ $160 AN ABSOLUTE MUST

    - Riva Pump Seal Kit ~ $80 As stated before, use a good sealant to make your plugs, and pay close attention to the area where the shoe and transom plate mate together at the bottom. There is a foam gasket there that needs to be removed. It is extreemly important to get your pump shoe filled, lined up, and torqued down properly. Do your research on this one.

    - 87mm Bored SHO Nozzle ~ $90 Try a 3 degree nozzle from an xlt. The 5 degree cost you to much time in the turns because your porpoise before you hook up.

    - Pump Relief
    --- 2 Jetworks Valves ~ $50x2 ~ $100
    --- I presume this is needed for what I will be running.

    I doubt very seriously that you will need this, as you will rarely see huge top end speeds.


    Engine Bay

    - Riva Pro Series E.F.I Unit ~ $369

    - Riva Freeflow Exhaust ~ $115

    - Riva D-Plate (Already Installed)

    - Gas Powervalve Kit ~ $130x3 = $390 Power valves are a beautiful thing because of their simplicity and ease of cleaning, but are not necessary for top speeds. Best to invest in a CDI or porting.


    - Riva Performance Heads 60T ~ $380

    --- Or perhaps mill my stock heads depending on the price.

    Milled head with the new head gasket is best bang for the buck. This may be part of your porting formula.

    - IR VF3 Reed Valve kit ~ $540 Will deliver as promised, however very expensive for the extra 100-1120 rpms. Does make for a great hole shot mod though.

    - Riva Flame Arrestor ~ $90

    +3 deg keyway Talk with WFO about which is better for your application. CDI or the keyway.

    Additional things I am not sure if I need

    - UMI Steering ~ $400
    --- Is this even needed?? I doubt I even need it.

    Makes your boat look good and is smoother steering, but not needed for short closed course racing. They are very comfortable in long races or practice...... what happened to the "Sleeper" look?

    Head gasket from later model GPR, with larger cooling holes.

    Do I need a Magnum Pump? They are about $1500 or so, and it is quite a bit compared to the rest.

    Magnum pumps are the last word in hole shot and mid range accelleration. All the big boys use them. You will not want to go back once you use a magnum pump. The down side is that they are very had on cranks... I lost two using mine. The 05 pump is the next best thing... a larger hub like the magnum, but not near as many veins (the hook up is not as good and so you pump slips a tad more which takes the load off of your crank).

    If there is anything else I have missed feel free to add, or comment about this setup. I am all ears
    Yes.

    Closed course racing is not always about who has the fastest boat. It is more about who has the QUICKEST boat, best racing tactics and strategy. The rider themself is a key element in wether they win or loose.

    Study your course. Look for points where you should come into the bouys wide and hot with high RPM's vs using your midrange to dart from bouy to bouy.

    Study your opponents, avoiding their strengths and using their weaknesses against them (some can't turn right or left well, some can't come in wide or turn hard).

    There is a big big biiiiiiiiiiig difference between racing fast and being a fast racer. A fast racer can make up for a lot of horsepower if he knows how to handle and make the most of his boat. Talk to other racers about how to set your boat up properly and when you do, the GPR WILL NOT let you down.

    The final point is this: some components that do not increase your speed in smooth conditions are very helpful in rough ones. The Shred or the stock plate is a perfect example. For many components, especially handleing ones, you have to test them in real world conditions. For example, race some one in rough water using the R&D Plate, then try the same race course against the same person on the same boat using a shred. Do the same thing with the 3 degree (or SHO) nozzle vs the 5 degree. This is how you decide if you are making the right choices or not. Top speed is not all there is to this.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Perth, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by IEGPR View Post
    Wow, 100 hours with no tunnel reinforcement ? You need to pull the grate and shoe and realy inspect the tunnel for cracks. Even stock skis had poblems in this area.. Do a pump plug kit, you can save money on this if you use 5200 insted of a kit.
    Yes I know , the tunnel was inspected about 5 hours ago (about 3 months ago), no cracks. I have been aware of this for the last couple of years, but in the last 3 years its probably only done 10 hours, due in part to me snapping my wrist wave jumping ... fun times, kept me off the ski for over a year. I have been quite lucky so far in regards to this and it has always been in the back of my mind. My uncle repairs fibreglass, so I will ask him to reinforce that area asap instead of waiting for a kit, before taking it out again.

    When I realised that the pump seal kit and the reinforcement kit was $200, I believe you are right, and it is better to save that money. I will seal the pump with 5200 when I put the prop in.

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    R&D plate with FF mod ---> Shedmaster / Stock plate
    FF/Speedplates plates for flat water riding. For surf/ ocean you want to use either the stock plate or a shredmaster.
    Thanks, do the shredmasters still perform well on flat water? The problem I see is that the water here is sometimes like glass, or sometimes like the 6 inch chop I mentioned, changing even depending on what part of the river you ski, or where you ski on the ocean.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    Riva Pro Series Sponsons --> Step the stock sponsons
    See how you like that and then decide if you want aftermarket sponsons.
    I will do that It is something I can test out before I order everything. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    +3 deg keyway --> +4 degree keyway (WFO)
    since you have an 03, you need +

    You will need the updated heavy duty pump and rideplate brackets
    Didn't know that. I presumed I would need a new pump which is why I asked about the magnum, I think I should be able to find an 05 or later pump here.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    Riva Performance Heads 60T --> Jim modified head
    they work better, dont forget to get the new 05+ head gasket
    Jim's modified head is milling the stock head?

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    T and dump the cooling off cylinder 3
    saves the exhaust couplings
    Will do.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    Ported Cylinders
    if you have the budget, talk to waterwoody / lowell
    +/- us$1500 with new rings

    05+ pump with custom pitched dynafly.
    my guess would be 14/22, if you are ported 14/24
    Yeah, it is quite an effort to send the block over to the USA and get it back. I was thinking of porting it but not at this current time. I always figured that if I did blow the engine I would either rebuild it ported or just drop a SHO/RXP engine in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    R&D Trim Tabs
    I went for the extended version, good for holeshot.

    Gas Powervalve Kit --> waveeater/rpm billet clips and couplers
    rather spend the extra on ported cylinders.
    That is what I figured with the Trim Tabs

    I have already had a powervalve fail once, I am pretty adamant on getting the gas kit in there.

    Thanks for the comprehensive reply

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by salty View Post
    Yes.

    Closed course racing is not always about who has the fastest boat. It is more about who has the QUICKEST boat, best racing tactics and strategy. The rider themself is a key element in wether they win or loose.

    Study your course. Look for points where you should come into the bouys wide and hot with high RPM's vs using your midrange to dart from bouy to bouy.

    Study your opponents, avoiding their strengths and using their weaknesses against them (some can't turn right or left well, some can't come in wide or turn hard).

    There is a big big biiiiiiiiiiig difference between racing fast and being a fast racer. A fast racer can make up for a lot of horsepower if he knows how to handle and make the most of his boat. Talk to other racers about how to set your boat up properly and when you do, the GPR WILL NOT let you down.

    The final point is this: some components that do not increase your speed in smooth conditions are very helpful in rough ones. The Shred or the stock plate is a perfect example. For many components, especially handleing ones, you have to test them in real world conditions. For example, race some one in rough water using the R&D Plate, then try the same race course against the same person on the same boat using a shred. Do the same thing with the 3 degree (or SHO) nozzle vs the 5 degree. This is how you decide if you are making the right choices or not. Top speed is not all there is to this.
    Thank you Salty, I realise this. When I said I wanted it set up for closed course, it is because that is mainly the style of driving I like to do, as well as to a lesser degree the only racing we do here. Wether or not I will actually race I have no idea, and I have learnt many times before on the water that the rider is pretty much more important than the ski to a degree.

    The points you made are amazing to think about. Just watching and learning from other riders, knowing them so well that you can predict their actions on the water. I like this mindset, hopefully one day I can put it into action.

    I have had a quick talk with some of the people here with heavily modded GPRs, I will get in contact with them again and ask for their input

  7. #7
    32 Valves To Love! Racecar_Dave's Avatar
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    Make it easy on yourself and just drop your boat off at WFO, give him a budget, and let him build your ski. He will put the right parts on in the right order. He knows his GPRs, that's for damn sure

  8. #8
    Never say never KirkF350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racecar_Dave View Post
    Make it easy on yourself and just drop your boat off at WFO, give him a budget, and let him build your ski. He will put the right parts on in the right order. He knows his GPRs, that's for damn sure
    That may be costly. If I read the post right, the guy is in Australia.

  9. #9
    32 Valves To Love! Racecar_Dave's Avatar
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    Unishippers

  10. #10

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    Shipping my ski to America just brings up all kinds of trouble and hassle that I do not really want to deal with nor can I afford to ship the entire ski two ways on top of parts. If I was going to ship I would buy a conversion ski in the US and then ship it here already done, but alas, I have to make do with what I have available to me at this point in time.

    I am not aiming at being one of the fastest in the world or even in my city, there is a 50/50 chance that I will not even race this ski in a competition, I basically just want a really nice ski to ride, the power then when I want it and if I do race, to be in there with a chance.

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