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  1. #1

    Pump removal help

    I purchased a 2004 msx which needs some work. The guy said it was the rubber part to the coupler that broke causing the ski to lose all thrust. Before I started to work on it tonight I looked into the intake grate and discovered a white (maybe plastic?) seal on the drive shaft in between the hull and impeller. The "washer" is free moving and I am guessing it came from the hull side. Does anyone know what this is? I then unbolted the levers for the steering and reverse thing(yes reverse thing is technical terminology). After that i unbolted the four long bolts holding the pump on and pulled the steering nozzle off. After I pulled that off I saw a few rocks still in the pump. After I pulled off the cone I turned the driveshaft and it appears the coupler is intact because the driveshaft wont move as the engine builds compression in the stroke. Now my next question is how do I get the rest of the pump off? I tried pulling it off but it doesn't want to budge. Do I need to take the ride plate off? If you cant tell I have never worked on a jetski before so any help would be greatly appreciated.

    I will have pics up soon.


  2. #2
    where is k447 when you need him

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ManOverBoard21 View Post
    where is k447 when you need him?
    Today was Family day

    I am allowed to not be online sometimes

    Some MSX ride plates are so close to the jet pump that they interfere with removal of the pump. However, you should still be able to work the pump body loose from the pump base, which shall remain bolted and sealed to the transom.

    Slide a long 2x4 down one side of the pump body, then lever the rear end of the pump stator sideways a few mm. The switch to the other side, and lever it the other way. After a few back and forth wiggles, the pump should unstick from the pump base.
    Edit: DO NOT BREAK or crack the plastic water tube along the right side of the pump. It doesn't come off, so just be careful with it.

    Then try to wiggle the pump straight back out of the hull, and off the drive shaft. The impeller may stick onto the end of the drive shaft, so some more wiggling and pulling may be necessary.

    Sometimes the pump extension section comes out with the stator, and sometimes it stays stuck to the pump base.

    If the ride plate really is preventing you from getting the pump to slide out, then the ride plate will need to be removed. That can be a hassle, since it is sealed to the hull, and will take some effort to get it to let go.

    Post a photo of the plastic item you see on the drive shaft, and the drive coupler behind the engine.

  4. #4




    Sorry for the crappy blackberry pics

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Today was Family day

    I am allowed to not be online sometimes

    Some MSX ride plates are so close to the jet pump that they interfere with removal of the pump. However, you should still be able to work the pump body loose from the pump base, which shall remain bolted and sealed to the transom.

    Slide a long 2x4 down one side of the pump body, then lever the rear end of the pump stator sideways a few mm. The switch to the other side, and lever it the other way. After a few back and forth wiggles, the pump should unstick from the pump base.

    Then try to wiggle the pump straight back out of the hull, and off the drive shaft. The impeller may stick onto the end of the drive shaft, so some more wiggling and pulling may be necessary.

    Sometimes the pump extension section comes out with the stator, and sometimes it stays stuck to the pump base.

    If the ride plate really is preventing you from getting the pump to slide out, then the ride plate will need to be removed. That can be a hassle, since it is sealed to the hull, and will take some effort to get it to let go.

    Post a photo of the plastic item you see on the drive shaft, and the drive coupler behind the engine.
    Thanks for all of the great info!! I took the bolts out of the ride plate but I was unable to get it off. Are there any tips or tricks you might have to getting it off? I have not gotten around to the coupler yet. I have the ski in a storage unit and the light wasn't working. Since my girlfriend and I were only armed with a tiny flash light I called it quits after getting part of the pump off. I did take a look at the engine and I noticed the oil tank is sitting above where the coupler is. Do I need to remove it to get to the coupler?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ManOverBoard21 View Post
    ...I took the bolts out of the ride plate but I was unable to get it off. Are there any tips or tricks you might have to getting it off?

    I have not gotten around to getting to the coupler yet.

    ...I did take a look at the engine and I noticed the oil tank is sitting above where the coupler is. Do I need to remove it to get to the coupler?
    I don't know whether the oil tank is in the way of removing the coupler cover on an MSX 150.

    Try to get the pump off without removing the ride plate.

    If it truly doesn't have clearance to remove the pump; Make sure you have removed the intake grate and are sure all the ride plate bolts are out.

    Then try standing on the rear end of the ride plate. You may need to hook the trailer up to your car to prevent it from bouncing or tipping the nose up.

    Hopefully the ride plate sealant will slowly release, at least enough that you can start using a sharp knife to slice through the sealant. Be very careful to not hurt yourself, or the ski. Try not to cut into the hull gel coat.

    If you can, find a well lit work area, with lots of tools

    BTW, was there ANY water inside that tail cone or moisture around the rear bearing when you pulled it off?

    That plastic ring on the drive shaft MAY be the drive shaft seal from inside the nose of the impeller. Need to see a better picture to tell. When you get the pump off, you will be able to tell where it came from.

  7. #7
    Matrix 200 suparoo's Avatar
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    I wouldn't remove the ride plate unless you absoultally need too - and realistically you should't need to. On my MSX the pump when it is bolted up sits on the ride plate but you can still get the pump off. Its probably the first time its been off in a long while and there will be some corrosion on the pump base as it is aluminium and aluminium and stainless will lock together. The first time I took mine off I put a piece of round stock down inside the stator and CAREFULLY levered it aound untill it broke free. Taking the ride plate off won't help the situation at all except giving you better acces to the problem and allowing you to lever it down but with the plate in place you can still move it up and side to side.
    Once you have got it off you need to scrape all the aluminium oxide (white gritty stuff) off the pump base I use a 6" stainless rule and some scotch brite. So that when the pump goes back on it mates up square and nice and coat the base with an anti corrosion product like Lanocote.

    http://www.generalmarine.co.nz/shop/...r+-+250ml.html

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I don't know whether the oil tank is in the way of removing the coupler cover on an MSX 150.

    Try to get the pump off without removing the ride plate.

    If it truly doesn't have clearance to remove the pump; Make sure you have removed the intake grate and are sure all the ride plate bolts are out.

    Then try standing on the rear end of the ride plate. You may need to hook the trailer up to your car to prevent it from bouncing or tipping the nose up.

    Hopefully the ride plate sealant will slowly release, at least enough that you can start using a sharp knife to slice through the sealant. Be very careful to not hurt yourself, or the ski. Try not to cut into the hull gel coat.

    If you can, find a well lit work area, with lots of tools

    BTW, was there ANY water inside that tail cone or moisture around the rear bearing when you pulled it off?

    That plastic ring on the drive shaft MAY be the drive shaft seal from inside the nose of the impeller. Need to see a better picture to tell. When you get the pump off, you will be able to tell where it came from.
    There was no moisture or corrosion inside the nose cone. I work for harbor freight tools so tools should never be an issue. I am about to go to work on the ski some more right now. After I get the stator off is there anything special I have to do to get the impeller off? Also after I get the impeller off whats my next step? Thanks sooooo much!! I will post a lot of pictures and I am sure I will have A LOT of questions.

    If you charged by the question on this forum you would be one very rich man lol

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ManOverBoard21 View Post
    ... After I get the stator off is there anything special I have to do to get the impeller off?

    Also after I get the impeller off whats my next step? ...
    The impeller will come out with the stator, they are attached together.

    Try to get the 'pump extension' to come out with the stator section. The impeller is a snug fit inside the extension (also known as a wear ring).

    Given the proximity of the ride plate to the stator, you really want the 4 inch long wear ring housing in front of the stator to come out at the same time as the stator
    Once you have the stator+impeller in your hand, all you need to do is check for smooth operation. The impeller should rotate with zero noise and no grinding feeling, and no slop or play in the bearings.

    If the impeller/stator bearings need changing (or you just want to do a thorough job), then you will need an impeller removal tool to get the impeller to unscrew from the stub shaft. Some guys use a torch bent old drive shaft, but the tool is fairly cheap to buy new (usually $20 or less).

    If you need to remove the drive shaft, there is a separate tool for that
    All it does is allow you to put a wrench onto the splined end of the drive shaft without damaging the splines.

    The drive shaft must come out in order to remove and rebuild the through-hull bearing carrier.

  10. #10
    The pump came off in under 10 seconds with the 2x4. After it came out I saw that the drive shaft had broken in two at the impeller. The impeller spins without binding and looks to be in good shape. I am still unsure how to get to the coupler so I can remove the broken driveshaft.

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