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  1. #1
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Throttle Lever, Not opening carbs WOT

    I installed a finger throttle and adjusted the slack on it but when I open the the throttle WOT the carbs dont open to WOT, there is probably a few centimeters to go. Is there a way to adjust this?
    I can manually open the carbs and see the difference, from the throttle lever not pulling enough to open them all the way.
    this is on a 2000 XP, and I'm doing all this while the engine is turned off.


  2. #2
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    Were did you take the slack out? At the throttle or at the carbs?

  3. #3
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    there is an adjustment righ under the hood, that you twist to cut the slack.
    I also adjusted the one on the throttle.
    and its tight as it can be,


    But maybe the answer is that I have to go ride it and adjust the Idle cause I have my idle set back all the way out, because I had a run away engine, on my first start up.
    so the idle screw is not even touching the carb plate.

    I will adjust the Idle screw and cut the slack right now and see if that helped any.

  4. #4
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    I think thats what it was the idle, needed to be brought up to then be able to cut the slack off the throttle.

    Dumb me its common sense now, the idle was all the way down (dead) so the the throttle lever had to compensate for that amount of leverage needed.

    I'm just stoked to take this thing out in the water, I'm waiting on the UPS guy to deliver my head gasket.

  5. #5
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Max,

    The throttle plates on a 951 should NOT open to full verticle (that is, relative to the plane of the incoming air path).

    From what you describe, I think you need to re-adjust that throttle cable. There should be a little slack in the cable at the carbs. If you try to get all of it out you just end up pulling the carbs open (off the idle screw). The idle screw setting does affect the throttle cable but if you have left a little slack in it you will not have to do anything once you set the idle.

    The first time I made this mistake I started a brand new engine and it hit the rev limiter about half a heartbeat before I could shut it off. That was a sphincter clincher I assure you.

    Here is what you do:

    Back the idle screw all the way off so it is not touching. Take all the tension off the throttle cable at the carbs (note, what you do to the upper adjuster in the hood DOES NOT affect the tension of the cable at the carbs).

    By starting from this point you ensure that the carbs are fully closed. Now you carefully tighten the throttle cable at the carbs until you see it move the throttle plate. At that point stop and back the nut off just a bit (1/8 turn should do). Then tighten the other nut and the cable is set for the carbs.

    This should leave just a little slack in the cable and yes, the throttle plates will not open ALL the way up but they should open to where the edge of the butterfly is just coming under the booster. I have messed with this and I assure you that you gain absolutely no RPM by pulling the carbs to the WOT stop.

    Once the cable is set at the carbs you go to the upper adjuster and set your throttle lever to have a little play while closed (I use a Nickle to set the gap from the lever to its base). This keeps the cable from being "pulled" by the lever when it is closed.

    Now your cable is set. To prepare the carbs for initial starting you want to turn the idle screw until is almost touches the striker plate on the throttle shaft of the front carb (about the thickness of a business card gap). Then give it one full turn in. From there you try to start. It probably wont so go in 1/4 turn increments until it does. Once she starts adjust your idle accordingly keeping in mind that final adjustment will need to be made warmed up and in the water.

    One thing that might help is that the cable is long enough on an XPL to hook up and adjust the carbs with them sitting on top of the engine (as opposed to having to lean over and work with mirrors and flashlights and such). Just lay a towel on top of the engine and put the carbs on it and pull the cable to where you need it (you may need to take the straps off the oil tank for the extra slack you will need).

    Also note that oil pump indexing is independant of throttle setting on a '99+ 951. That said, if you are running oil injection, the very first thing you want to do when the engine goes in is to connect the oil pump cable and set the index on the lever. This is MUCH easier to do Before the pipe goes on. Since throttle and idle adjustments do not affect it the oil pump will be set and good to go.

  6. #6
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    Max,

    The throttle plates on a 951 should NOT open to full verticle (that is, relative to the plane of the incoming air path).

    From what you describe, I think you need to re-adjust that throttle cable. There should be a little slack in the cable at the carbs. If you try to get all of it out you just end up pulling the carbs open (off the idle screw). The idle screw setting does affect the throttle cable but if you have left a little slack in it you will not have to do anything once you set the idle.

    The first time I made this mistake I started a brand new engine and it hit the rev limiter about half a heartbeat before I could shut it off. That was a sphincter clincher I assure you. I had my first runaway already but knew what to do in that case, CHOKE DA BITCH

    Here is what you do:

    Back the idle screw all the way off so it is not touching. Take all the tension off the throttle cable at the carbs (note, what you do to the upper adjuster in the hood DOES NOT affect the tension of the cable at the carbs). GOT IT!

    By starting from this point you ensure that the carbs are fully closed. Now you carefully tighten the throttle cable at the carbs until you see it move the throttle plate. At that point stop and back the nut off just a bit (1/8 turn should do). Then tighten the other nut and the cable is set for the carbs.

    This should leave just a little slack in the cable and yes, the throttle plates will not open ALL the way up but they should open to where the edge of the butterfly is just coming under the booster. I have messed with this and I assure you that you gain absolutely no RPM by pulling the carbs to the WOT stop.THANKS FOR CLEARING THIS FOR ME I WAS WONDERING WHY THE PLATES DIDNT OPEN PERPENDICULAR TO THE CARB BODIES

    Once the cable is set at the carbs you go to the upper adjuster and set your throttle lever to have a little play while closed (I use a Nickle to set the gap from the lever to its base). This keeps the cable from being "pulled" by the lever when it is closed.

    Now your cable is set. To prepare the carbs for initial starting you want to turn the idle screw until is almost touches the striker plate on the throttle shaft of the front carb (about the thickness of a business card gap). Then give it one full turn in. From there you try to start. It probably wont so go in 1/4 turn increments until it does. Once she starts adjust your idle accordingly keeping in mind that final adjustment will need to be made warmed up and in the water.

    One thing that might help is that the cable is long enough on an XPL to hook up and adjust the carbs with them sitting on top of the engine (as opposed to having to lean over and work with mirrors and flashlights and such). Just lay a towel on top of the engine and put the carbs on it and pull the cable to where you need it (you may need to take the straps off the oil tank for the extra slack you will need).Running premix, and also took off the stock airbox, so I got enough space to throw in a dead body in the engine compartment, lol

    Also note that oil pump indexing is independant of throttle setting on a '99+ 951. That said, if you are running oil injection, the very first thing you want to do when the engine goes in is to connect the oil pump cable and set the index on the lever. This is MUCH easier to do Before the pipe goes on. Since throttle and idle adjustments do not affect it the oil pump will be set and good to go.

    Thanks Krunch, as always you are the man!, along with RQ, some ppl might criticize your knowledge, but you guys have been around longer than us young kids.

  7. #7
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Shoot, I am just plain wrong every once in a while...

    Some stuff is opinion and some is fact. If someone does not agree with my opinion that is cool, they have thier own and I respect that. I am not a fan of pre-mix, but if you like it, then go with it. As long as your boat runs and you are happy with it, I am happy with it.

    As for facts, if I do not know I am not going to try to BS my way through it just to look like I am some kind of Sea Doo god. If I tell someone how to do something it is because that is how I have learned to do it (and some of those lessons were expensive, just ask my wife).

    In the end I am glad to give back what I can of the help that was given to me when I started out.

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