Thread: 00' GPR To Do List
02-19-2010, 03:39 PM #1
00' GPR To Do List
So I have now owned my GP1200R for almost 1yr. I rode it all last summer bone stock. I managed to pull out 65.5mph out of it which impressed me.
So now that it's the winter and the ski is sitting in my garage I want to take care of some little projects on the ski. So I am trying to compile a list of "To Do's" before this season is in full swing and I wanted some opinions/advice.
(NOTE) I am removing the pump to replace the plastic pump liner. So this may open up a whole world of DIY mods.
Here is my list, read it, place you opinion and also give me some advice on other things I should look into.
- Pump Tunnel Reinforcement - I know this isnt a "must do" thing, but it's cheap insurance
- Catalytic Converter Removal
- Pump Shoe Insert - I am considering the DIY approach with the 1/4" piece of steel.
- Premix Setup - I already have the block off plate kit.
- Dual Feed Fuel Supply Lines
- Fuel Flapper Removal Mod + Clunk Mod
- Fercho Jetworks Mod - Should I Consider An Aftermarket Bilge Setup?
- Remove Tamper Evident Caps On The Carbs
- 2" GPR Extension Upgrade
- Free Flow Exhaust Mod
So any opinions, input or even "omg you don't want to do that" tips, please let me know. I'm already pretty excited to get back out on the water.
02-19-2010, 04:03 PM #2
to do list
Some other things i have done and made a huge diff:
1 Flame Arrestors
2 Jeting Carbs
3 Milled stock head 41cc
4 Solas Prop/Pump cone
5 Intake Grate
6 Ride Plate
7 Free Flow exhaust
"WAVE EATERS" and Couplers.
I had after market sponsons but went back to steped stock ones
I also found it ran better with stock trim tabs
Cut some holes for more fresh air for motor (Be careful in rough waters)
*** This is all just a opinion.Trial and error works great***
Its a blast though Best of luck and have some fun .......
02-19-2010, 05:27 PM #3
Things I Thought Were Important
Items in bold should be considered REQUIRED
ADA head with 40cc domes *
Waveeater clips and couplers
New crank seals (Held 10PSI for 3.5 hours) (Only If you need to split the case or you engine does not hold pressure)
D-plate with sensor chip
Riva free flow tube (Blue) *
Hole shot kit (Fercho Style) *
Hole shot kit relocation * (Check my posts for pics)
SS hole shot gasket * (This was a GREAT idea)
Complete carburetor rebuild (OEM Only)
Drilled out returns
90 Jet installed into return fitting on sending unit (Great idea from WFO)
Accelerator Pump Removal
Rejetted for all mods and adjustments
Fuel filter replaced
Fuel Flapper/Screen removal
Selector switch removal
Solas impeller 13/19
Bilge line removed
R&D 1200 Intake Grate (ANYTHING other than stock)
Pump shoe Polished
Pump shoe sealed
Coco's reenforcement kit
2004+ rideplate and pump shoe brackets
500 gph rule bilge
1300R fuel selector plug
1300R Choke removal plug
PET-2100DX installed in glove box (Does not need to be a PET but you need to get a decent tach to monitor the ski)
02-19-2010, 05:33 PM #4
02-19-2010, 05:40 PM #5
if you ever have time check out my build thread from my gp1200r.. theres a lot of good info cause i installed all this stuff you are doing plus more.. oh yeah i was age 13-14 literally when i did it.. so that should be inspiration that you can do it and get it done!
I also have some left over parts like the stinger exhaust for the Gp1200r with the jetworks mod done and I have all the jetworks valves and stealth mod just laying around if you are interested.. then you'd just need to swap stingers and be done.. updated gasket as well. no leaks!
02-19-2010, 06:48 PM #6
Im in the process of removing the pump right now.... wait let me rephrase.
I am in the process of getting my ass kicked by the pump. It's not coming out. I've pryed both side and it moves out about 1" and does nothing. I figured it would have a "pop" point, but I am putting in some serious force.
Any other advice to remove this burden lol.
02-19-2010, 07:00 PM #7
02-19-2010, 08:27 PM #8
02-20-2010, 02:13 AM #9
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Texas City, Texas
Drop the tongue on the trailer so that the pump on the boat is the highest point on the boat. Remove the intake grate and spray WD-40 or any superior penetrateing/lubricant that works on rust and corrosion on to the shaft as close to where the shaft inserts into the intermediate shaft. Let it sit for about an hour.
You said that the shaft pulled out about an inch. Use a brass or rubber hammer, and tap the pump back into place then try once again to remove it. If you do not have a rubber hammer, then retighten the mounting bolts back into the pump, then try to pry the pump back out by putting the screwdriver between the pump ears. Do this a few times, and it will break itself loose.
I've done this on 2 different boats and it works well.
02-20-2010, 03:30 AM #10
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