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  1. #1
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    What do you think about this..HELP!

    This is my Shuttle Craft trailer. Went to the beach on Monday and when I got back home it smelled kinda weird so I start looking and I find this!

    What needs to be replaced? What do you think?
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  2. #2
    JayZ's Avatar
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    if the shaft is damaged, you need a new axle or the bearings won't seat properly. at a minimun you need a new hub. looks like some serious heat and damaged there.

    edit: by the amount of rust on there, it looks like the seals and bearings have been gone for a long time.

  3. #3
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    You think I can get away with driving it to the trailer shop like this? I drove it 45 mins from the beach like this I would guess.

  4. #4
    tomgtv's Avatar
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    You should go to Northern Tools, about SR836 and 167th st.
    http://www.northerntool.com/retailst...ns/florida.htm

    These guys are the trailer part kings of the universe. Take off
    old hub and take over there. You can get a hub/bearings for about $27.
    They have all the axles, tires, rims, etc. that you would need. Lot cheaper
    than having a shop fix it, pretty simple stuff to do. I know, I rebuilt a
    trailer after blowing a tire coming in from the Keys. The studs had rusted
    on the wheel, using an air hammer it had the stud turning in the hub, had
    to replace.

  5. #5
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    Im really bad at this man. How do I even start taking it out. I went to a shop close by and they told me $40 for each side ( reccomended doing both ) and he said the axle "must" be bad too and that would be about $120 so $200 in parts and 2.5 hours service @ $80/hr

  6. #6
    tomgtv's Avatar
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    I bet the $40 was plus parts.

    Hub replacement - Just take out the cotter pin on the big slotted
    nut on the end of the axle. The hub will slide off. Buy new hub.
    There is a rear and a front set of ball bearings, grease them up and put
    rear one on first. slide hub on, insert new front bearing, put big nut on
    with new cotter pin (looks like a bobby pin, insert in slot, bend one or
    both pins around nut to prevent it spinning) and you're done. Put some
    bearing buddies on and fill with grease. These are spring loaded axle
    end caps that keep grease under pressure to prevent future problems.
    Super necessary when you dip you trailer in salt water as you do.

    If it seem to complicated let the shop do it, I'd make them demonstate
    to you that the axle is bad. They are heat treated and can take quite
    a bit of abuse.

    Another tip - put an anti seize compound on those lug nuts that hold
    wheel on. Helps a lot in a potential rust lock up problem. Your pictures
    show you're rusted up pretty bad. Have you tried to get those wheels
    off yet??

    Tom
    Last edited by tomgtv; 09-08-2006 at 01:02 PM.

  7. #7
    captain obvious Lurker's Avatar
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    what does the other wheel look like?

  8. #8
    Resident Jicky Jack Jeff C's Avatar
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    Geo:

    This is not hard to get fixed, just a little time consuming.

    Jack up trailer and put on jack stands
    Pull nut off spindle. As you are turning the nut off apply some oil to the spindle threads and work the nut off

    Pull hub off, in your case it might actually fall off

    Inspect spindles and make sure they do not have deep grooves in them from your bearing going out. If they have small grooves in them, you might be able to get some emery cloth and sand them smooth again. This applie to minor scratches.

    If the spindles are toast, un bolt the axle and take it and one of the hubs to northern tool. The guys there will set you up with new bearings, seals, and buddy bearings. Might as well get new cotter pins while your at it, and a grease gun and a tube of marine bearing grease.

    Unpack the bearings, put them in the palm in your hand and press greas into them to preload the bearings.

    Press the inner bearing in and then press the rear seal on.

    Then "glob" a bunch of grease inside the hub.

    Then put the hub on and then the outer bearing and seal. Then on goes the nut.

    Tighten the nut so you can barely move the wheel with your hands. This gets the bearings in place. Then back of fthe nut until the wheel turns very freely. Then tighten up the nut slowly until there is just barely no play from side to side on the wheel. Then back the nut off to the next hole the cotter pin will fit into and bend the cotter pin.

    Take your buddy bearings and with a RUBBER mallet, hammer them on. Then pump grease into the buddy bearings until the spring retracts almost all the way.

    Repeat for the other side.

    After about 50 miles on the road check the buddy bearings to make sure the spring is still compressed. Sometimes after you change grease, there are air pockets inside the hub and the grease will fill the spaces, so you will need to add more.


    BUDDY BEARINGS ARE NO SUBSTITUTE for repacking your bearings every fall. YOu guys in salt water do not want to let your bearings go through winter with salt.

  9. #9
    Will work on YOUR ski for FREE! GeoRXT's Avatar
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    No winter here in Miami!!

    Thanks for the info guys. I will try this project on Monday hopefully.

    I have to take out the wheel to perform this right?

    I haven't tried to take 'm out yet. i always spray with wd40 after each use though, hopefully it wont be too bad.

    The other wheel looks excellent. I will post a pic of that later on.

  10. #10
    THE OFFICAL SUPERDUTY!!!!!! superduty's Avatar
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    good luck with your project

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