Thread: best ride plate for racing
02-25-2010, 10:24 AM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
- mk england
best ride plate for racing
hi can any one tell me what the best ride plate would be for close course racing i have a stock 06 1300r, and any other good modding tips for racing, i have riva sponsons all ready many thanks
02-25-2010, 10:51 AM #2
02-25-2010, 11:30 AM #3
i would mess with shims under tabs if unhappy
lots will bang on about shredmaster ride plates,i ran one on my jump boat and it was superb hook in the big rough in the sea but i fear a little to much for cc racing in the uk lakes
02-25-2010, 03:14 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Texas City, Texas
But we can point you in the proper direction so that you will know what you are looking for.
CC racing is about quickness from bouy to bouy and complete control in hard, aggressive turns with other people around you. Various components on your boat do various things.
If you are a hole shot kind of guy, you want a pump and impeller that will help you take the hole shot and hold on to the lead. If you are a counter puncher who is better at running down the opposition in high traffic, then you may need a different impeller. In both situations, you need to explain to the impeller tuner what you are best at, or what you are trying to achieve.
You have a good set of sponsons, so know that they will help in hard aggressive turns. It is important to note that the more you adjust them down to keep your hull from sliding in a turn and recovery from that turn, the slower you will go in straight line racing. Adjust according to your needs and riding style.
Your ride plate helps in bow lift and top speed. It also helps to a lesser degree in straight line tracking and sliding in turns. The R&D are by far the most tunable for individual needs. My advice to you though is that CC racing is not about top speed, it is about getting to the highest top speed that you can in the shortest amount of time possible. An unmodified shredmaster and a completely tuned Jim's FF ride plate seem to be the opposite extreems (the shred in all rough water and the R&D in all smooth water). A modified shred or a tuned Jim's plate with shims would do the trick based on riding conditions.
The one component you should look into that will help as much as a proper impeller is a 3 degree nozzle. It helps to minimize bow lift in rough water. You then align (tune) your ride plate to match the nozzle to get the most lift and greatest speed at that angle.
Each one of these components must be "tuned" to work together to suit riding conditions and riding style. You adjust each component and see if you gain or loose speed based upon how well you do against your opposition.
You can only do this by getting together with other racers in racing conditions to determine if these components are an assest or not. I know that this is a lot more than what you asked for, but these are the basics.
Hope this helps.
02-26-2010, 07:15 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- budaberg qld
shim the stock plate it is way more predictable than most and top speed is not an concern in cc racing the hook up is the problem
02-26-2010, 07:26 AM #6
stock plate, or a shred-master plate. Both are planted and turn really well.
02-26-2010, 07:29 AM #7
Or if you have $600 plus to burn, get lucky, and have tons of power, get a bullett racing handling kit... no longer made, but they pop up, from time/time.
02-26-2010, 02:29 PM #8
Stock plate worked fine for me, I'm looking forward to the Shredmaster plate for this season!
How can you modify the shred plate?
02-26-2010, 04:30 PM #9
I'd be lying if I said "I tried" but after riding it, I feel like it's already very planted to the water.
The biggest problem is that nearly every one sold never fits correctly on the hull. You have to grind out the holes to make it fit the inserts. They try to say there are variances on the gpr hull, but thats bunk. The gpr hull stock has the inserts in indentations, and since it's a smc mold, every one from start to finish are the same.
Once you get it mounted it's a very nice rough water plate. It certainly does plow. I can't wait to try one up around 90mph.
02-26-2010, 05:36 PM #10
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
Here we go again, mounting a ride plate even if needed grinding some is about as basic as it gets (4-bolts). IMO, comparing a stock ride plate to a Shredmaster when running buoys is about like comparing day to night in difference, stock slides in the turns bad. I remember watching one of Rius mechanics going from a stock ride plate to a Shredmaster and knocking off 12 seconds on a CC. Whatever with mounting the bottom-line performance is what it is all about?
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