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  1. #1

    1998 Tigershark 770 Rebuild Questions

    I have come to possess two 1998 ArcticCat Tigershark 770's that were salvaged. They have been sitting since 2002. The guy I got them from did a little work to them. I got them for $600 bucks and the engines seem to be in mostly working order. I am taking apart just what I have to and hope to rebuild them both to have some fun on them. Any help on these make and model would be appreciated. I am totally new to skis or boats but I work on cars so I understand basic engine principles.

    Both skis had the impeller seized to the wear rings, which were warped. On one of them the previous guy removed the ride plate, stator, and wear ring. He then had that wear ring ground out to be a circle again. It has a thumb tack size pit in it but seems to be fine. The second ski still has the stuck impeller and wear ring attached.

    1st Question: Should I use the machined wear ring or purchase new ones? They are $450 a piece if I can find them and a machine costs $40. Also where can I find parts like that? I broke the plastic stator cone removing it and need a replacement as well.

    2nd Question: After cleaning out the carb intake (The painted coating on it had flaked off in a nice mess), I sprayed Seam Foam in the cylinder and the carb and started the engine. It started up fine and smoked white smoke. I was able to rev it slightly for 10 seconds or so. I turned on the hose attached to left side flush port. The engine choked like it was drowning. The engine died and I quickly shut off the water. After 20 minutes or so I started it again and it sputtered to life. After 10 seconds I ran the hose this time attached to the stator hose that is hangin free with the stator removed. This was supposedly the correct place to run on water forward through the engine. Again the engine sputtered and died. I killed the water quick. Pulled the plugs and they have milky white watery liquid fouling. Spray some seam foam in there again and restart it. Run it ten seconds and kill it. What do I need to fix? Do I have a bad head seal or something?


  2. #2
    Team RTYD burton9010's Avatar
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    Welcome to the tigershark world. Good place to look up OEM parts is http://www.roguejets.net/shark_parts.htm
    As for the wear ring it would be best to get a new one or maybe find a used one that is in good shape. You could also get them to work from getting them machined like you said I would just be worried about them changing shape again. If they are already warped they are going to keep warping different shapes even after you get them cut. Your props might also be damaged from contacting the wear ring. This is an important setup that you will want to get right because otherwise you could spend alot of money and time rebuilding the engine getting it tuned in and then the pump will do nothing but cavate and spin the prop. An expert to call in the prop and pump setup is Dave at www.impros.com he is the expert and has a lot of knowledge. Just changing to an aftermarket prop from stock is a night and day change.
    2nd problem sounds like you have a leaking gasket or maybe a blockage somewhere that is building pressure and then causing water to push past somewhere it should not be. A Gasket kit would be a good place to start but if you were up for pulling the whole motor out you could go over everything then and also change out the crank seals which more then likely need to be changed.

  3. #3
    Go to www.pwctoday.com Contact member Dank He has many used tigershark parts,and will give you any information needed.I know he has a 98770 TSL he's parting out.
    and many more items you will need to get them up and running.

    Sounds like a head gasket,If water Is in your cylinders . If water Is not coming out pump and exaust while running and flushing there is a blockage.backing up thru exaust.

  4. #4
    porschemaniac's Avatar
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    I have a wear ring in pretty nice shape out of my old 97 1000 daytona if you need it-$100 I hade a solas and gave t and my new jet to the guy I sold it to.

  5. #5
    Regarding your 2nd question:

    It sounds like you just cleaned the carb throats. Did you disassemble the carbs and rebuild them? It is starting and running on the Seafoam then dies because it is starving for fuel. The carbs will need fully rebuilt if they have been sitting since '02. If I'm not mistaken the 770's use dual Mikuni 38 "I" Series carbs (at least the 96 770 Daytona I fully rebuilt for a friend did...) Anyway the Mikuni carbs are easy to get parts for... The fuel tank will need drained of the old fuel as well.

  6. #6

    How to free props frozen to shaft?

    Thanks for the help.

    Porsche, I'll take the wear ring if it's Part Number 0775-065. Some of the other models don't have the same bolt pattern. There's probably a way for you to email me the info from here right?

    So far I think Burton might be right about ski #1 dying after 10 seconds. It seems to die if I turn on the water or not. I need to check the carbs on that one. It does seem to rev just fine but the throttle lever seems to be sticking wide open. It will only run if you hold the throttle some. When I let go of the throttle to turn on the water it would die. I had only cleaned the crud from the carb throats but a more thorough carb rebuild is needed. I may try just turning up the low speed idle and see if she stays running until I get the rebuild kit.

    For ski #2 I removed the ride plate and was able to get hold of the stator middle bolt with a large adjustable wrench. The prop was seized in the wear ring so it didn't turn the shaft and I was able to remove the stator. From there I was able to remove the wear ring fairly easily. Now though on both ski's the props seem to be frozen to the shaft. One one I can wiggle it just a little but can't pull it off like it shows in the diagrams. How do I free the props from the shafts? I want to replace them along with a new wear rings on both skis. I sprayed the heck out of the spline with sea foam but they won't budge.

    Good news, after I removed the frozen wear ring on ski#2, drained and replaced the gas, it started right up! Ran it on the hose for a few minutes and it sounded great! I think I will get these in the water here just in time for summer!

  7. #7
    porschemaniac's Avatar
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    I thought you were building a 97 model-sorry-the 97 wear ring wont interchange with your 98. Good luck with the build though-I have a 99TSR 770 -its a fun machine

  8. #8

    Coupler Spanner Wrench pn 0644-284

    So I am going to remove the drive shafts to free the props which seems to be rusted onto the end. I am going to get new props and maybe drive shafts.
    I need this tool, Coupler Spanner Wrench pn 0644-284.
    Does anyone know where to get one or what to use in place of it to hold the coupler?

  9. #9
    Team RTYD burton9010's Avatar
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    check with impros he might have that tool that comes with a prop. If not you can more then likely order that part from a arctic cat dealer.

  10. #10

    Compression test

    I did a compression check on both skis. 150/150 on the ski that seemed to run fine. 130/90 on the ski that won't run without holding the throttle. It's the rear cylinder that had the 90 reading.

    I ordered the spanner coupler tool from www.alpha-sports.com.

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