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  1. #1
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    Looking for someone that rebuilds trim motors

    Does anyone on here rebuild trim motors? or know someone who does?? I have a 1100ZXI with the typical rusted up trim motor inside. the whole ski is scattered about my garage right now so I have no idea if it works or not. I have heard that if the trim motor was covered with a rubber boot available from Kawasaki that this could have been prevented. is this true?? because if I can get this thing rebuilt and cleaned up I will buy one of these rubber boots if they are still available. I also will try to mount the motor higher in the hull if possible to prevent the water from coming up the cable. Has anyone done any of this?? any experience???

    Thanks,
    Jared in Oklahoma


  2. #2
    Texan78's Avatar
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    I am in the process of going through this same thing on my 96. Now the motor itself really can't be rebuilt but you can take it apart and clean it. What I would do first is get your battery and make some jumpers and connect them to the battery. Touch each end of the jumpers to the leads on the motor. It doesn't matter which one because it will spin it if it is good and if your reverse the polarity, it will spin the other direction if the motor is good. If it is locked up you will hear the motor humming and if you don't then it is fried. But if you hear it humming you can take to the cover to the gear off and clean and re-grease it and try to free it up. Then retest it. If it is fried the best place I have found to buy a replacement is on eBay for $119 + free shipping. I wouldn't try rebuilding it if it is bad, it would be easier to just replace it because of the hassle it is to replace it later if you need to.

    Now the rubber boot is what you are referring to. It is on the back of the hull next to the pump. If it's damaged it will allow water to come up the cable and into the trim box. You can get another one from Cycle Parts Nation under cables once you pull up your model and year and just make sure both ends are zip tied good. If I remember correctly you have a 99 so it will be part number 49016-3702. It is probably the same for other models as well. Another thing you need to be concerned about is the trim sensor unit that is in that trim box as well. If your motor tests out well but it is not responding from the button then you have a bad Electronic Control Unit, or some call the Trim Control box. It is mounted at the top above your trim box. This can cause a lot of problems because none of your gauges will work. In some cases it can even cause the motor to not even start. I am in the position where I have to purchase a new one because none of my gauges work nor my trim but the motor is good but it is not getting power to the motor.

    Unfortunately where it is mounted, this is the only place you can mount it, you can not mount it in a different spot.

    Unfortunately this is where things can be an expensive trial and error part of troubleshooting the ski. I would first start out but testing the motor by connecting it to the battery and go from there.

    Is the trim the only problems you having?

  3. #3
    steve45's Avatar
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    It used to be that you had to buy the entire box as an assembly. Now you can buy the motor and controller separately. Still a pain in the butt and expensive.

  4. #4
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    Man this is awesome!!! Great info.

    Wow thanks. this is great info. The info about the Electronic Control Box or Trim Control Box) answers another question I had. I have had a couple of Kawis that I could get the trilm motor to move on by connecting to a batt. but not when using the switch. I bet the ECU was bad on those skis...oh well they are sold and long gone. Where have you been able to find one of the Electronic Control Boxes in the past?? or is it repairable sometimes?? Thanks for your awesome advice. Right now the whole ski is in pieces on my garage floor. The original 1996 hull was dropped off it's trailer by it's original owner (bargain for me) so it had to be stripped of everything. I have a 2000 donor hull and now Im just going through everything carefully as I put it back together so the end result is an extra nice ski.

    Thanks again,
    Jared in Oklahoma

    Quote Originally Posted by Texan78 View Post
    I am in the process of going through this same thing on my 96. Now the motor itself really can't be rebuilt but you can take it apart and clean it. What I would do first is get your battery and make some jumpers and connect them to the battery. Touch each end of the jumpers to the leads on the motor. It doesn't matter which one because it will spin it if it is good and if your reverse the polarity, it will spin the other direction if the motor is good. If it is locked up you will hear the motor humming and if you don't then it is fried. But if you hear it humming you can take to the cover to the gear off and clean and re-grease it and try to free it up. Then retest it. If it is fried the best place I have found to buy a replacement is on eBay for $119 + free shipping. I wouldn't try rebuilding it if it is bad, it would be easier to just replace it because of the hassle it is to replace it later if you need to.

    Now the rubber boot is what you are referring to. It is on the back of the hull next to the pump. If it's damaged it will allow water to come up the cable and into the trim box. You can get another one from Cycle Parts Nation under cables once you pull up your model and year and just make sure both ends are zip tied good. If I remember correctly you have a 99 so it will be part number 49016-3702. It is probably the same for other models as well. Another thing you need to be concerned about is the trim sensor unit that is in that trim box as well. If your motor tests out well but it is not responding from the button then you have a bad Electronic Control Unit, or some call the Trim Control box. It is mounted at the top above your trim box. This can cause a lot of problems because none of your gauges will work. In some cases it can even cause the motor to not even start. I am in the position where I have to purchase a new one because none of my gauges work nor my trim but the motor is good but it is not getting power to the motor.

    Unfortunately where it is mounted, this is the only place you can mount it, you can not mount it in a different spot.

    Unfortunately this is where things can be an expensive trial and error part of troubleshooting the ski. I would first start out but testing the motor by connecting it to the battery and go from there.

    Is the trim the only problems you having?
    Last edited by jarcynvicnchris93; 03-02-2010 at 12:47 AM. Reason: spelling

  5. #5
    Jared of Oklahoma
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    thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    It used to be that you had to buy the entire box as an assembly. Now you can buy the motor and controller separately. Still a pain in the butt and expensive.
    man am I glad I dont have to buy the whole box. Now Im just hoping my controller is good.

  6. #6
    Texan78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarcynvicnchris93 View Post
    Where have you been able to find one of the Electronic Control Boxes in the past?? or is it repairable sometimes??
    If you are lucky you can find one on eBay. I found one for $40 plus shipping brand new but when I went back to get it someone had just bought it. So you have to keep your eyes open on there and here for people parting them out and selling one.

    If you can't find one there Cycle Parts Nation has them but they are not a cheap item, but the cheapest I could find new. Trust me I have been looking high and low for one of these as well cheaper. The part numbers from the 96 are different from others yrs so I am not sure they will work from other skis. So if you found one from another year you might have to call Kawasaki and see if it will work. Someone was telling me the plugs were different on other years. I don't know if that is true or not. So when you get one it will have to be for a 96. From Cycle Parts Nation it was like $251 shipped. It is part number 21175-3704 if memory serves me correctly and it will be under Electrical Equipment.

    This is not a serviceable part at all. If it fails you have to replace it. Their is not even a way to open it up. Once you see it you will know what I am talking about.

    Like I was saying earlier I would start testing the trim motor and if it is good but you are not getting power to the motor, or if your gauges are not working but you are getting power to the CDI and starter relay or power from the fuse panel then chances are the ECU is bad. Very expensive trial and error but if you are having those problems a new ECU should fix it. Their is not much to the electrical system and everything runs through the ECU.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    I bought an old STS 750 for my neices & nephews to learn on. Didn't pay much and didn't want to spend much to fix the trim on it. I found that I could remove the controller and wire it directly, but the trim motor ran backwards. I swapped wires and it worked fine.

    The problem is that the controller has the limit switches (actually, a revolution counter) that tells the motor when to stop so it doesn't burn up at the end of the travel. Since I now had no travel limit, I put a slow-blow fuse (I think it was 7-1/2 amp) in the power wire to protect the motor. Told the kids to watch the trim indicator and when it got close to full up/down, let off the button. We only blew one fuse during the season, then I bought another complete unit on Ebay.

    If you buy one on Ebay, make sure they post close-up pics of the inside of the unit before you bid on it, and make sure they'll guarantee it works.

  8. #8
    Texan78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    The problem is that the controller has the limit switches (actually, a revolution counter) that tells the motor when to stop so it doesn't burn up at the end of the travel.
    Yours might be different then ours. We have a trim sensor meter that is in the trim box that stops the motor from traveling to far and also sends the signal to the meter gauge. Our ECU cannot be opened and has no serviceable parts.

  9. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    The motor actually has an extra commutator brush that sends a signal to the controller so it can count motor rotations. This is how it knows where it is. You're right, the controller is a potted device.

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