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Thread: Depo's SLTX

  1. #1
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    Depo's SLTX

    if all goes well i will be picking up a 1997 sltx tomarrow morning. the story goes that the mag piston is bad from a oil line cracking.. the ski will becoming with a piston and cylinder and all the gaskets... the mag cylinder didnt look too bad just light scuffs (i have seen worse) and probably could be honed and be fine. he had the head off the center and the piston wash looked rich and no scuffs on the wall. the pto had 130ish lb of pressure using a long comprtion gauge.. he also said the mag had 90 lb before he tore it down too check it.. the rod looked great with no heat marks or cracks and so did the crank.. he said he replaced the oil line and oil pump to be on the safe side but hasnt gotten too the mag yet.

    my question is what am i going to need tool wise..

    i know a torq wrench- i am trying too source one now.

    and the normal tools you would need for nuts and bolts..

    i have been doing some research and will continue to do so but if you guys have any tips or tricks that will help, i will be glad too use them. this will be my first major project like this and my only concern is getting the piston on the rod.. any tricks for this?

    i will post pictures of all the parts and the ski its self when i get it tomarrow morning.

    any extra how too's or tips and tricks of the trade will be handy..


    thanks


  2. #2

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    harbor freight has a line of torque wrenches that are farily cheap, probably adequate, around 15-18 if memory serves. northern tools are better but more expensive around 50. these are for the click stop design. the beam design is less expensive. read my post "cylinder base nuts" lots of good info there.

    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...nder+base+nuts

    getting the piston on should be easy. just oil the wrist pin push it in and put the circlips in. warming the piston crown with o torch or putting it in the oven and putting the wrist pin n the freezer will help if they're really tight. when you look at it you'll see it's self explanatory.

    if you need to remove any piston pullers are really easy to make with $4-5.oo worth of hardware at lowe's or home depot. lmk if you need more details and i'll send you more info. i'd post some pics for you now but seems the cord for my digital camera is missing...

    i ordered the base nut tool off of ebay the link is in the post. that one or the one from watcon i think is just about a must have if you're going to get the base nuts torqued right.

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    ryandi2's Avatar
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    i will let you know if i need some more info. but thanks for what you gave.. my only concen is what about the rings around the piston if i put it in the oven.. i know they get hot any way but what should i keep the oven at below 150 f i would assume?

    and the base nuts look easy to get too with a extention and the torq wrench since its the front cylider.. but i will post my findings!

  4. #4

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    no problem heating the piston or rings to 150. they get a LOT hotter in normal operating conditions.

    you'll find that 2 of the nuts are easy to get to with a socket and extension. the other 2 are really tough due to the shape of the cylinder. that's the reason for the special tool.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=370143851087


    http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/...ch_Adapter.htm

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    ryandi2's Avatar
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    i really want too get the project started tomarrow.. so i will start sorcing tools and picking some up tomarrow after i pick the ski up!

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    Check the ring gap before they go in so you know what tolerences your running, what kind of pistons? wiescos have more clearence in the rings than stock pistons I believe. Someone on here knows the gap ranges, I don't. '

    congrats on another polaris ski!


    make sure the arrow points to the exhaust side.. (if im wrong, someone correct me!)

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    ryandi2's Avatar
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    thanks on the congrats.. how do i check ring gap? i will have too do a search. this might be a stupid question.. but i belive this is a good used piston that has rings on it.. if this is so do i still have too check ring gap?

  8. #8

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    put your rings in the cylinder one at a time. put the crown of the piston down ( upside down ) into the cylinder and let the piston push the ring down a little until the ring is level in the cyinder, then measure the gap in the ring with feeler guages. you can do this at the top and the bottom of the cylinder they should be fairly close. if there's a lot of difference in the measurement at the top ot the cylinder vs the bottom that is an indication of cylinder wear and may indicate the need for a rebore.

  9. #9
    Hayabusa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    Check the ring gap before they go in so you know what tolerences your running, what kind of pistons? wiescos have more clearence in the rings than stock pistons I believe. Someone on here knows the gap ranges, I don't. '

    congrats on another polaris ski!


    make sure the arrow points to the exhaust side.. (if im wrong, someone correct me!)
    My experience with Wiseco piston rings is that they tend to run on the tighter side out of the box. I used Wiseco pistons on both of the 780 I just built. I did not have to file the rings to get the proper gap but they did come out on the tighter side of factory recommended specs. I like to leave them that way knowing the gap will become larger, as the rings seat and wear. However, the gap will vary depending upon piston to cylinder clearances (basically bore size). The larger the clearance (bigger bore)the more gap there will be. I did have my machinist finish hone the clearances to .005 which is less than what a lot of people would recommend if your running Wiseco. I've never had a problem with it, you just need to let the engine warm up properly.

  10. #10
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    i will keep searching on the fourum for more ring gap info! i will figure this out.. i still a little confused but i think i can manage

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