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  1. #1
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Armada Summer Prep

    The list is long but I hope to get everything done before good summer weather is upon us.

    This first ski is the '94 SL750 I just acquired last weekend. I haven't had a chance to dive in yet but I thought I'd post a couple of pictures of the ski.

    Here's a rundown of what is 'known' about this ski:
    1) Black paint is faded and decals are nasty
    2) Handlebar pad is shot
    3) Seat Cover feels more like a plastic dashboard than vinyl
    4) Supposedly has no spark, E-box was cracked open by someone.
    5) Has OEM fuel pump and autocock
    6) Oil injection system is present.
    7) PTO cylinder looks like it's been hot.
    Round MFD.....condition unknown
    9) Trim.....condition unknown
    10) Pump.....condition unknown
    11) Overall hull fair with few scrapes or gouges
    12) Rear grab bar and rub rails all present but a little discolored.

    Is that thru-hull fitting just below the rub rail OEM? I don't recall seeing those on any other SL's. At first glance it didn't look like it had any cooling mods, so this ones a bit of mystery to me.

    I was going to scavenge good parts off this ski and use them on my SLT750 but now I'm starting to think I'll figure out the issues, get it running, and sell it as a complete ski.



  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    The thru hull fitting is most likely the drain opening for any water that gets caught under the cowl.

    I've got one on "her ride" from the factory.
    Last edited by xlint89; 03-13-2010 at 07:26 PM.

  3. #3
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Stator?

    This morning I finally dug into the SL to get to the bottom of it's problems.

    The cylinders all look good and the crank appears to be IN phase. I don't have a dial caliper, but I spun the coupler until the PTO was measured to be at TDC as best I could. At this point I could feel slight play clockwise and counterclockwise without the PTO moving. I put the coupler in the center of that play then measured down to the CEN and MAG. The measurement to each piston was equal. I did the same thing for each cylinder @ TDC and the others at BDC were equal. I know this isn't the definitive test for crank phase, but at minimum there don't appear to be any major fluctuations in the crank.

    I had previously mentioned the PTO cylinder looks discolored. Upon closer inspection the base gasket for that cylinder looks different from the others so whatever problem existed appears to have been repaired.

    BTW, the engine turned smoothly by hand with the coupler.

    The E-Box is a different story. I cleaned up the connections and found the Red/White wire going into the CDI was cut. I repaired that by exposing clean wire, soldered the ends, and covering with shrink tubing.

    I started probing around with my cheap multimeter and think I found the problem.

    Below are the published resistances in the manual:

    Alternator (Red/Purple to Yellow) 0.6 Ohms
    Trigger (White/Yellow to Black) 220 Ohms
    Pulser (Blue/Red to Red/White) 90 Ohms
    Exciter (Red/White to Green/Red) 490 Ohms

    With the multimeter set on 2K and all stator wires disconnected I got the following readings:

    Alternator 0.007
    Trigger 0.208
    Pulser Infinite
    Exciter Infinite

    I'm going to assume from these readings that the stator is trashed. Does that sound right?

    KJ

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    ...think I found the problem.

    Below are the published resistances in the manual:

    Alternator (Red/Purple to Yellow) 0.6 Ohms
    Trigger (White/Yellow to Black) 220 Ohms
    Pulser (Blue/Red to Red/White) 90 Ohms
    Exciter (Red/White to Green/Red) 490 Ohms

    With the multimeter set on 2K and all stator wires disconnected I got the following readings:

    Alternator 0.007
    Trigger 0.208
    Pulser Infinite
    Exciter Infinite

    ...
    If you were measuring the correct wire pairs, then there is a problem with those open Pulser and Exciter readings.

    Check for corrosion or wire breaks right at the stator wire connectors, and look for cuts into the wires anywhere along their length.

  5. #5
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    I'm 99.9% certain I was measuring the correct wires. I've cut back the stator wire sheathing as far as I can and all the wires seem to be in tact with no breaks or worn places on the insulation. Of course inspecting the wires under the exhaust pipe is totally impossible.

    I need to borrow my buddy's flywheel puller and then I can get at the stator itself and test these leads at the base plate. Tomorrow I'll work on pulling the fuel tank, stator cover and getting the flywheel pulled. Once I'm down to that I'll be able to get direct access to everything. If I get the correct readings at the stator base plate I'll try and trace back through the harness for wire problems. If the readings at the base plate are the same as before I'll know I need to replace the stator. I would have needed to get down to this point anyway to replace it.

    KJ

  6. #6
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Kevin (Xlint89) had a good suggestion. He was pretty skeptical that both the pulse and exciter coils both measured infinite. He pointed out something that should have been extremely obvious........those two measurements have the Red/White wire in common. The problem may very well be a break in that wire somewhere in the portion of the harness I can't get to yet, or somewhere inside the stator cover.

    In case the stator is bad I contacted Zigler and he's able to hook me up with a good used one for a fair price. Just to cover my bases, and get this project done as cheap as possible, I contacted Jet Ski Solutions to see how their repair cost might measure up to John's price. They politely replied their repair would be more than John's used stator. Very cool that they were up front and honest with me like that

    I hope to get that stator exposed one night this week and probe the wires further. I'm really hoping it's just a bad wire that I can't see. If not I know I can rely on Zigler to hook me up with the parts......as usual

    KJ

  7. #7
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Tonight I finally had a chance to tear into the front of the ski.

    Removing the fuel tank wasn't too bad. In the process I found a few significant problems.
    #1 The couple of gallons of gas in the bottom of the tank smelled like varnish

    #2 While removing the tank I found the rivets holding the fuel neck to the hull were pulled through. Looks like I'll have to put some backing plates on those when I reinstall it.

    #3 Some goon had used silicon tubing for the supply and reserve hoses in the tank. These had turned to complete goo and the intake screens had fallen off.

    The flywheel wasn't too bad to remove. Some Aerokroil on the shaft, a pneumatic impact wrench on the flywheel puller, and some heat applied to the flywheel removed it in about 15 minutes.

    Below are pictures of the stator. The flywheel was pretty rusty, so I'm wondering if there has been a lot of water inside the stator cover. The pictures are after I sprayed Aerokroil on the screws (they didn't want to come out) and used compressed air to blast all the rust chips out of the way.

    I used my multimeter to test the continuity of the Red/White, Blue/Red, and Green/Red wires. They all measured 0 ohms between the Ebox end and the wires at the stator. That would confirm that the harness itself is okay. When I probed the wires on the stator I still got INFINITE readings for the pulse and exciter coils. Seeing the rust on the top of the coils makes me think there's been some water intrusion and the stator is toast. Does this sound right?

    At this point I'm thinking about pulling the motor. Tomorrow I'm going to try and remove the stator, but the rusted screws don't give me much hope. I think I'm going to need an impact driver to pop those things out before I completely trash the phillips head. Then I'm wondering, if there's been that much water in the stator housing, could there have been water setting in the case at some point as well? Realistically I should probably tear the motor down and make sure the crank is in good shape. It seems to turn okay by hand, but I'm not sure that's saying a whole lot. The big problem is that I was planning to just fix the ski, get it top shape, and sell it. With the stator, a battery, and a few other things I will already be putting more $$$ in it than I care to. Then if I tear down the motor I at least need to buy a gasket kit to reassemble, and then if the crank is questionable........... Aye aye aye.........I could quickly have $500 in a ski that's worth about $800 at best.

    UUUGGGHHHH decisions, decisions.

    KJ



  8. #8
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Parts are on the way!!!! Thester is one awsome dude

    I still need to order a triple fuel pump, fuel lines, intake gaskets, and some other ticky tack stuff.

    I hope to pull the motor this week and get it on the workbench for a good once-over. I'm crossing my fingers that the crank is okay

    I need some suggestions on the handlebar pad. The orignal one was a sun-beaten, rotted piece of junk. I have a spare pad (turquoise) that's faded but the foam is in decent condition. So here are my options:

    1) Find a replacement red pad in good condition
    2) Throw a BMX style pad on the crossbar and call it good
    3) Paint the faded pad with Krylon Fusion and hope for the best.

    Whatcha think?

    Here's an interesting find. Obviously this thing had serious fuel issues and someone had no clue what they were doing. One of the hull siphon tubes was stuck on the pulse line of the AUTOCOCK Also, the fuel return has been capped off at some point. I'm not sure if the line restrictor exists so I'll probably have to make a home made one when I get to that point.

    KJ

  9. #9
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    So installing a new fuel tank in the boat took precedence over all the PWC projects for about 6 weeks. Man, there just isn't enough time in the day is there?

    Thanks to many good folks around here: Xlint, Thester, and Zigler, I have finally compiled all the parts I need to get all 3 skis running.

    I now have vinyl to recover the seats of the '94 SL and the '94SLT. I've decided to paint the faded blue handle bar pad with red Krylon Fusion and hope for the best.

    My '96 SLT780 is the closest to complete running condition, so I decided to work on it tonight......well after it got dark and I was finished opening our pool for the season

    I finally decided to put this ski back on the oiling system so both of the SLT's will be running straight gas in the tank. I bought a tank, sending unit, and oil pump from Zigler (at a great price I might add) and was attempting to install that this evening. Well, to get the oil tank into it's slot on the fuel tank, I had to slide the fuel tank forward. The MAG cylinder was in the way of just sliding in the tank and there's no way I'm removing a cylinder just to install an oil tank.

    Let's just say that it's a completely blind shot getting to the 4 fuel tank mounting bolts. In the process of moving the tank, all 4 brass washer/inserts on the under side of the mounting holes fell out. So, I'm trying to think how I keep these inserts in place while I move the tank over them and then install the bolts in a blind location Well, I decided to use some silicone to hold the inserts in place. Those are setting up as I write this. Tomorrow evening I'm going to try and install the oil tank and move the fuel tank back in position without knocking out any of the inserts.

    Once the oil tank is in place I'm going to install all new fuel lines thanks to Fast Fuel Lines. Then, I'm gonna be crazy and try to install the oil pump with the carb rack and intake in place. If that doesn't work I'll try removing just the carbs. I'm pretty sure I can make it happen with the intake in place.

    That's where we stand right now. Tomorrow night I should be able to put in a good 4 or 5 hours on the skis. Hopefully the oil system will be in place on the 780, with all new fluid lines (oil, primer, fuel) and this baby will be ready to fire up.

    I may get around to tinkering with the '94 SLT as well, but my goal is to have at least one complete running ski for this weekend.

    KJ

  10. #10
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    AS stated before, there just isn't enough time in the day, but............

    The SLT780 is completely back together and ready to roll.

    I had a minor side project helping a kid from my church get the carbs on his Yammie rebuilt. Yikes, I've never seen gelatenous goo that turned to crust. Green Hulk is an awesome place. I got some helpful documentation for carb specs from a guy over in the Yammie section that helped me get the kid running top notch.

    The SLT750 is getting close. The carb rebuild was finished tonight. I got a dead even 18 PSI pop off on all 3 carbs.... I drained the old gas (lacquer thinner now) out of the tank and watched the in-tank tubing disintegrate. Tomorrow night will be new lines in the tank, new oil lines, and complete new lines to the carbs. At this point I should have a functional ski to test this coming weekend!!!!!

    BTW, does anyone know the factory lengths for the supply and reserve lines in the tank? I'm sure I can measure and get them close, but if I have OEM lengths it would be easier.

    Anyway, I should be on the water Sunday afternoon!!!!!!!!


    KJ

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