Thread: Yamaha 2ZZ MR2 Spyder conversion
03-09-2010, 06:39 PM #1
Yamaha 2ZZ MR2 Spyder conversion
Thought it would be interesting to share with you guys.
I was borrowing my friends MR2 spyder and exploded a rod bearing so as repayment I am building and installing a yamaha 2ZZ-GE out of a 2003 Toyota Matrix XRS. The engine is also found in the Celica GTS, Vibe GT, Lotus Elise, and a couple of other cars.
Here's his car with his hardtop he ordered from the UK (not availiable in US)
The goal is to make 215+ whp at 9000rpm
The plan so far for the 2ZZ is:
Darton iron sleeves
Monkey wrench racing knife-edged and lightened crankshaft
Crower Billet I beam connecting rods
Custom (12.0:1) JE pistons
Fully ported and flowbenched cylinder head
Custom cams cut for the flowbenched head
MWR flat-faced (adds 0.3 to the compression ratio) stainless valves
MWR Springs and retainers
Billet oil pump gears
Custom stepped long tube header
Custom intake manifold - going to try to come up with a variable runner design - just missing a butterfly valve system...any ideas?
and it will all be tuned using an Apexi Power FC standalone ECU
I think thats pretty much all the engine stuff, needs alot of little stuff to make the swap work.
03-09-2010, 06:50 PM #2
Two weeks ago we picked up a motor from the junkyard with low compression in one cylinder for pennies!!!
Heres the motor on the engine stand ready to get torn down
Timing cover off - now it time to inspect the cylinder for damage
Ouch! Check that out, that is sand. Loose, dry sand. Why would that be in there?
03-09-2010, 06:58 PM #3
Here's the damge with the pistons out
Because the cylinders are so thin Yamaha put on a Metal Matrix Composite coating that helps disperse heat, reduce friction and strengthen the walls. This does not allow me to bore or hone the cylinders without getting replated so I have ordered a set of Darton iron sleeves for my machine shop to install
Got the crankshaft out and packaged up and sent out to MWR for machine work
Block and head have been dropped off at Precision Machine in austin for sleeve install and head porting!
03-09-2010, 07:11 PM #4
Now to turn the attention to removing the blown 1ZZ from the spyder
I know, not alot of room in there, luckily, everything is super accessible from below. Glad I have a lift!
A couple of hours later we dropped the suspension/transaxle/motor as one
about an hour after that we had the suspension and transaxle back in the car and the car back on the trailer on its way back to my friends garage.
That's all for now, I'm waiting on parts to arrive and machine work, then the fun part of engine assembly can begin
03-18-2010, 05:57 PM #5
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
Nice work buddy
Hello from across the pond
I stumbled upon this thread and website via google, as I have the same spec car here in the UK a 2001MY MR2 Roadster, Mine has the 2zz fitted after conversion work around 2 years ago, sadly Im pretty sure its in need of a rebuild as the previous owner ran low on oil, at a track event and my fear is its at least spun a rod
Im currently in the process of adding to my tool collection and sorting a ramp out to strip the car down for removal of the engine and suspension like yours. before I go to this extreme do do you know if its possible to gain access to the rods (once oil pan is removed) with the engine in situ?
My thinking is so I can confirm the damage and best course of action to take.
keep up the good work fella, and keep taking the pics, im reading with interest
03-30-2010, 02:57 PM #6
Well $4300 worth of parts arrived about a week ago
Exciting day, still waiting on the pistons, Apexi ECU and engine bearings as far as the rest of the parts go.
Here's my personal favorite part that was ordered. Piper Stage 3 camshafts
I was going to have custom cams cut for the ported and benched head but the downtime for billet cores was way too long and these are $600 less (Still costs $850) They make good power all the way from idle! And when compared to stock cam profiles are much much larger. Heres a dyno pulled from monkey wrench racings website.
This was run with an Apexi standalone (same tune for both) a stock sized intake and stock exhaust manifold and cat, AND it stopped the dyno run 1200rpms sooner than this motor will turn.
03-30-2010, 03:11 PM #7
I ended up going with a billet chromoly flywheel instead of an aluminum one because of 2 reports I've heard of the aluminum ones exploding at high rpms. I also got a set of billet chromoly oil pump gears for the same reason.
These are also an exceptionally cool part: Crower Maxi-Lite Billet Steel Connecting Rods.(These are also the only part I spent my own money on)
Weighing in at 464 grams yeilds a weight savings of 78 grams per rod over the stock 542 gr connecting rods
03-30-2010, 03:21 PM #8
Heres probably what I consider to be the most important part in the reliabilty of the engine. MWR 9500+rpm springs and Titanium retainers. These are also manufactured by Crower but they have a coating on the springs that reduces the fatigue brought on by repeated high rpm use. The engine isnt planning on seeing EXTENDED 9000+ rpms runs as it wont be a track car, I have an M3 that I let my buddy drive when were at the tracks anyways. Swaintech claims that the coating helps the springs keep their high spring rate longer
These will help keep the Supertech Nitride coated flat-face valves from floating at 9400 rpms
The flat face helps bump the compression ratio up 0.3 from using the stock style concave valves.
03-30-2010, 03:31 PM #9
Boring ARP hardware, Main cap studs, head studs, and flywheel bolts
One of the reasons I was insisting on using the crower rods was because ARP, or anybody else, sells connecting rod hardware. Crower uses H-11 tooled steel bolts rated at 220,000 psi for its tensile strength!!
03-30-2010, 03:36 PM #10
This is what is referred to as a "Bridge mount" and it allows the installation of a 2ZZ in place of the stock 1ZZ
It installs here:
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