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  1. #1
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    ADJUSTING DRIVELINE COUPLER SPACING

    I found a finger from my coupler dampner laying in the hull. I checked the alignment with a straight edge and it looks good, however the distance between the couplers is too far apart. The spec is 2-4 mm. My couplers are just a little over 6mm apart from each other. I understand the motor needs to come back a minimum of 2mm to get within spec. What I don't understand is how is the motor going to be allowed to be moved back when the motor mounts are mounted to the hull in a fixed location, and the thread in the mount itself is fixed in the center of the motor mount. With everything bolted down I can push the motor back a tad due to the flex in the rubber mounts, but as soon as I quit pushing back, it moves forward. It just seems to me if I removed each bolt that goes into each of the four motor mounts and slid the motor back to where it needs to be, I would not be able bolt the motor back down to the mounts because the bolts would not be able to thread straight because the threaded hole in the mount would be partially covered by the bed plate. Thanks for any insight on this.


  2. #2
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    Loosen the center bolt not the 2 outer bolts.
    Shift the motor back the 2 mm and tighten it down.

    Use Blue locktite

    Dont get too close or there will be metal to matal contact when the motor moves.

    SCOTT......................

  3. #3
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Scotsman
    Loosen the center bolt not the 2 outer bolts.
    Shift the motor back the 2 mm and tighten it down.

    Use Blue locktite

    Dont get too close or there will be metal to matal contact when the motor moves.

    SCOTT......................
    I am not going to get any closer than 4mm. Would you get another dampner since it is missing a finger, or would you just push the motor back and run with one finger missing? The sun has finally come out, and I want to ride.

  4. #4
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Well, I fought with it half the day today. I can't get it within 4mm. When I push the engine back far enough to get the 4mm, the bolts will not go in. I am going to order another dampner and just go with it. It lines up good across the couplers, just not front to back, there is too much space. This is not the first time and won't be the last for the dampner being replaced.

  5. #5
    RAIDER RUNNER BULLRAIDER's Avatar
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    97 that happens alot after the power increase, it just takes time, I saw 2 in the bottom of the hull this weekend, , you need to replace it ANY time you see one off, or it will tear the coupler off since it is not spaced away from ech other, you can get NEW aftermarket "exact", copies for 10.00 from Parker Yamaha, Yamaha itself wants about 50.00 for one with out shipping. I just changed mine this weekend.

  6. #6
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    I am going to order one today, thanks for the Parker Yamaha info.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 97GPSLEEPER
    however the distance between the couplers is too far apart. The spec is 2-4 mm. My couplers are just a little over 6mm apart from each other.
    What I don't understand is how is the motor going to be allowed to be moved back when the motor mounts are mounted to the hull in a fixed location, and the thread in the mount itself is fixed in the center of the motor mount.

    The rubber boot on the exhaust pipe along with the 4 motor mount bolts are keeping you from moving your engine front to back.

    Loosen all 4 motor mount bolts... the ones that hold the engine to the mount.

    Loosen the worm clamps on the exhaust pipe, the inner rubber connection as well as the outer boot.

    Reomove the shroud that covers your coupler. Use a large screw driver for leverage to push the engine forward. I have wedged it between the finger couplers before. Remove the rubber dampner and replace it.

    What it sounds like is that the engine was moved forward to compensate for the porpoising, but it put serious stress on the fingers. The dampner was designed to be the weak link and fail under load, but apparently in the configuration you had, it was the finger that was weakest. The chances are still very good that your dampner is bad.

    Once you replace the parts, the engine should slide back very easily, and with the exhaust disconnected from the engine, you should get the 2mm that you are looking for.

    Hey, this is probably what caused your problem in the first place. Best to fix it right and put it back to specs and then walk away from it, or else it will probably just happen again.

  8. #8
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by salty
    The rubber boot on the exhaust pipe along with the 4 motor mount bolts are keeping you from moving your engine front to back.

    Loosen all 4 motor mount bolts... the ones that hold the engine to the mount.

    Loosen the worm clamps on the exhaust pipe, the inner rubber connection as well as the outer boot.

    Reomove the shroud that covers your coupler. Use a large screw driver for leverage to push the engine forward. I have wedged it between the finger couplers before. Remove the rubber dampner and replace it.

    What it sounds like is that the engine was moved forward to compensate for the porpoising, but it put serious stress on the fingers. The dampner was designed to be the weak link and fail under load, but apparently in the configuration you had, it was the finger that was weakest. The chances are still very good that your dampner is bad.

    Once you replace the parts, the engine should slide back very easily, and with the exhaust disconnected from the engine, you should get the 2mm that you are looking for.

    Hey, this is probably what caused your problem in the first place. Best to fix it right and put it back to specs and then walk away from it, or else it will probably just happen again.
    The exhaust pipe is removed and out of the hull, all four bolts are out, and the motor as been slid forward to get the dampner out. One finger was completely torn off and a second was about to go. I should have a new dampner in hand tommorow. Currently the motor is just sitting on the mounts without any shims. I know where the shims were and the couplers lined up good up and down and left to right, just not front to back.

    I am the original owner and the motor has never been intentionally moved forward to help with porpoising. This is the 4th dampner I have been through since 2002. When I see a finger laying in the hull I change the dampner. The last time I had a dealer do it because I absolutley hate messing with it. With there being over 6mm spacing between the couplers it is easy to see why the dampner keeps loosing a finger. I can move the dampner back and forth between the couplers quite a bit, too much in my opinion.

  9. #9
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    I got home from work today and took my time wrenching, stayed patient, and drank a few beers. Here are the results. With the four motor mount bolts loose I still can't push the motor back enough to get the coupler within 4mm of the intermediate coupler. After I realized this, I loosened the 8 bolts that hold the motor mounts to the hull and tried pushing it back, nothing. Next, I completely unbolted these 8 bolts and pushed the motor back to get the couplers within 4mm of each other and looked at the threaded inserts in the hull that the motor mounts bolt to, and there is no way I can get bolts back through the motor mounts and into the threaded inserts. The mounts partially cover the threaded inserts.

    Now, for any GP owner who has a service manual, please join me as we go to section 5-41. There is an as required notation of adding shims behind the intermediate driveshaft housing. It does not explain why these shims would be required. However, this would bring the entire housing, intermediate driveshaft, and coupler closer to the engine coupler if shims were added behind the housing at all three bolt locations. My GP did not have these shims installed from the factory, but this is the only way I see to get my couplers 2mm closer to get me within the spec. Advice, suggestions, and comments are welcome and appreciated.

  10. #10

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    97

    Appologies for not reading your original post completely.

    it seems that the Scotsman gave you a pretty good method to deal with your problem. The engine mounting bracket that secures the engine to the motor mount has a pretty good size hole. it seems that if you remove the center bolt through the bracket and into the motor moount that you would have plenty of play either side to side or front to back.

    Have you removed this center bolt yet to take a look see?

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