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    Ultra 250 "Oil Gone Wild." BKM for changing oil.

    Oil Gone Wild.

    Friday, April 6th, 2007
    This one is going to be a bit long and will consist of several explanations of the oil and the PVC system. First part is the oil change. I did mine in a manner that several can debate as being insane but it has worked just fine.
    I like to get my boats engine level. Best way to do this is use a torpedo level on the valve cover and adjusting the tongue height of the trailer until your torpedo shows level.
    I left mine set over night in this manner. First thing in the morning I sucked out the drained oil with my Tempo Oil extractor. Be sure to record how much you have removed. Mine pulled out 4.2 qts.

    Then I stuffed paper towels under the oil filter located on the right front side of motor just under the intake manifold. Remove the oil pressure switch just above the oil filter. Use a oil filter wrench to carefully remove the oil filter. Quickly reinstall new filter {P/No 16097-0003} be sure to oil the rubber O-ring and torch down to 13 ft-lb.
    Several oil choices are available but the choose is yours. Try to follow your owners manual for the operating temperatures in your area. I choose to go off the chart and use the AMS oil 0-30 just as MaccRacing has done with there race craft. Doing this will require more oil changes and constant checking of oil levels. In a race machine you will want to continually change and check oil. As far as aftermarket filters, well I have found non that offer better filter ability and still maintain the stock application for this boat. What that means is they may sell some that fit but none of them are made for the 250X. Since oil pressure can be high through the filter I opted to stay with the Kawi part and just change it more often.
    Unscrew the fill cap and start with 3 quarts of oil. Start the engine for 1 minute at idle. Shut it off. Check level after 10 to 15 minutes as the oil will trickle down to the stick reservoir
    Continue to slowly fill , start, let set and check until you get to “your” desired oil level . I like to only go to the Blue E when cold or the Red G when hot.
    A= Full Cold
    B= Low Cold
    E Blue= Full to me when cold
    D= Full Hot
    E Red= Low Hot
    G= Full to me when hot.

    So why have I chosen to run my oil lower then recommendation?
    Well lets start my theory with the explanation of the PVC system of the 250X. Below is a picture from the 250X service manual.

    Picture makes it pretty simple to follow the vapor route. Blow-By from pistons makes for air in the crank case. It is this air that becomes oil vapor moving to the valve cover then over to the oil catch can. The Oil Catch can is the only way of ventilating the case pressure that forms. Its in this catch can that heavy residue should drain into the bottom of the engine block. The line coming from the top of the can is to draw gasses formed into the air intake system to be burned through the engine and out the exhaust. These gasses carry a oil residue and rumored to aid in corrosion control of the forced air system. In theory this is a a great system and works well. So why so low on my top offs.
    Well this motor is forced induced. The case pressure formed in the engine block is forcing oil up and out that should have drained to the bottom of the catch can. I found that running full oil and full boost causes a massive amount of air to exit the valve cover bringing excessive amounts of oil with it. This oil is being pushed into the air intake system which can rest in the inter-cooler, supercharger or come out the relief valve to again be vented into the air intake system. Its this oil that has caused my BOV failures and loss of HP and even pooling of oil in the Inter-cooler and supercharger.

    Picture from a 250X Inter-cooler and blower with excessive oil.
    Looking at what others have done under supercharged motor, I have found that running mid level oil is still safe for the engine but greatly reduces the amount of sloshing of the oil.
    I know someone is going to say something about positive and negative case pressures. Well lets put it this way. The tube going to the Air Box does have suction at full boost but it does not seem to contribute to the oil issue. I took my hose off the oil catch can and popped on a KN style air breather. Still the oil blew out the breather filter and went everywhere inside my hull. This I would call a positive crank case pressure, relieving itself out the catch can unit.

    Below is a catch can that has been cut open. Just a demo, it does not mean you need to cut open your catchcan.

    More coming on why this is opened up and the modification coming to aid in slowing the amount of oil movement but not the air flow…………

    Above is the new modified catch can that Rudy from R-Rated Performance sent me. He cut open a stock unit and installed a triple ported baffle to help in reducing the amount of oil gurgle from the case during maximum case pressures. The idea is to allow as much air flow as possible while reducing the oil from climbing to the top vent hose.

    With the catch can installed and oil level adjusted I was able to test it. I waited until a race event weekend. Running the boat in 4 different moto’s. Pushing the performance load to it s max I found no effect of oil escaping from the catch can. Doing my post weekend inspection I did not find any oil in the inter cooler or supercharger. With the catch can mod and running lower oil levels I have completely eliminated my oil overflow issues.
    For those who use this machine as recreational then it will be as simple as adjusting your oil level but for those running in competitions then the modified oil catch can will most defiantly benefit.
    Last edited by Skips313; 10-04-2007 at 10:56 PM.

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