Thread: Engine stalls in water...
03-17-2010, 08:45 PM #1
Engine stalls in water...
Ok well I just got the new motor in and all hooked up. Took it out to lake test it and tune it and break it in today. Left it connected to the trailer but put it in the water far enough so it could get float on its on. I am having problems with it staying started. One thing I notice is it wasn't getting very much water when it would idle for about a min or so. I had the seat off and could see a little bit in the hoses flowing though but not much. I have transparent hoses so I could see the water, but nothing was coming out of the pisser. It seemed to be staying cool though when it did run.
A little background. The carbs are completely rebuilt and pop off adjusted. All the cooling and fuel lines are brand new, it has OP F/A, boyseen power reeds. Now the carbs are not tuned, that is one thing I was going to do if I could keep it started. By any chance do you think the idle screw needs to be adjusted. Also I have a bad ECU so it is not connected. Would this have any effect of it not staying running?
03-17-2010, 09:33 PM #2
It won't stay running if you rev it up a little? What are your mixture screws set at?
03-17-2010, 09:40 PM #3
Thanks for the reply. I am kinda of scared to rev on it to much since it is a new motor and not broke in. This was the first time I took it out to the lake. Since it was also sitting on the trailer I didn't know if it would hurt it giving it a lot of throttle and it going no where. I did slowly give it some throttle though and it seems like it would probably stay started if it was given throttle. I just went out and adjusted the idle screw a bit but since I don't have a flush kit yet I don't want to run it out of water longer then a couple of seconds if not at all until I get it back to the lake. It seems like it was staying running longer but no way to tell what my RPMs are at until I get my new ECU.
Does this sound simply like the idle screw needs to be set? I know the carb settings are not perfect. I do have them close enough to stock as I can get them though.
03-18-2010, 03:46 PM #4
UPDATE: Ok got back out there today for a little bit and adjusted the idle screw and got it to run on the trailer for about 5 mins or so then shut it off so it could cool down. I am not sure what the RPMs were at though since the ECU is bad. This time once it did start running on the trailer water was coming out of the pisser so that much is good.
After I let it cool down I decided to unload it off the trailer since it idled fine and stayed started on the trailer. I cruised around in the no wake for a bit and let it warm up again. When I decided to take it out further in the lake I slowly gave it throttle real SLOW and when I did it would bog and die. I then had trouble keeping it started. I started adjusting the idle because it seemed to be idling faster then I think it should have. I think I drained the battery from starting it so much so I could cruise back. Good thing I did because when I put it back on the trailer it was hard to start. I thought maybe the motor was locked up but I think it is just the battery was low.
EDIT: Just went out and started it since it has been home and it started right up, but it only runs for like 5 secs or so then it dies. I don't think it is getting fuel but not sure why. Carbs have been rebuilt and cleaned really good and pop off set. This wouldn't be because of the ECU causing this much problems from it running would it? That mainly controls the gauges and trim right?
Anyways, anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Could not having the ECU connected be causing this not to run correctly? I think I may just wait until I can get a new one in a couple of weeks so I don't cause it any damage that way I can adjust the RPM's correctly.
Any feedback or suggestions would be great!
03-18-2010, 09:34 PM #5
Excessive idling isn't good for breaking in an engine. It will cause varnish to form on the cylinders and the rings will never seat properly.
Are you running pre-mix in addition to oil injection? Your combined oil ratio should be about 25:1. This will tend to foul plugs if you let it idle much. You don't need a tach to set the idle speed, just set it at the minimum speed that will keep it running. It will probably move forward at about 4-5 MPH.
I don't know what the recommended mixture screw settings are for that engine (even though I used to own one). I usually start out setting the high speed at about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns, low speed about 1 to 1-1/4. When you turn the screws in, NEVER tighten them. Only turn them until they seat, then back them out. These settings are probably going to be way too rich, but that's better than too lean. It's OK to lean it out so that it stays running, but you still want it a little rich during break-in.
Carry spare plugs & a spark plug wrench with you, as you'll probably foul them during break-in.
03-19-2010, 02:44 PM #6
Yes I am running premix at 40:1. I know I don't need a tach but it is not good to have your ski idling at say 2 grand and not know it though right?
I have them pretty close to stock as I could get them, but this wouldn't keep it from staying running or bog down and die when given throttle would it?
03-20-2010, 02:35 PM #7
Change your plugs... Idling it for ten minutes on breakin will be a sure thing for fouling. Plus motor come with a oil coat in them so when you fired it for the first few times it had some oil in it already along with the premix and oil injection.
Change the plugs and see its cheap and a easy fix. Ten minutes is a little long for warm up.
03-20-2010, 02:53 PM #8
The plugs were brand new when this issue started happening. On new plugs it wouldn't stay running more then a couple of seconds. At this point I will try anything though. Almost like it is not getting fuel but not sure as to why. Even after idling out of the no wake then giving it throttle slowly it would bog as soon as I give it throttle and die.
One thing I noticed though is when it dies it makes a weird noise that sounds like a donkey or air sucking. I know that sounds weird but best way I can describe it...LoL
03-20-2010, 03:10 PM #9
I just went out and checked the plugs and they like as new as the day I put them in.
I had to put the charger on the battery for a little bit to start it just now. I played with the idle screw some more and I can get it started but it seems like it is idling a little high on the trailer but I am not sure since the Tach isn't working right now. One thing I noticed though is when it was running just now I gave it some throttle and it didn't bog or die, so that is a good sign. I guess whatever I did last night to the carbs did something. I guess I will know more when I can get it back in the water and get it under load and see if it will run or bog and die with throttle. I just slightly back off the idle screw and it doesn't stay running on the trailer.
03-20-2010, 05:34 PM #10
While out tinkering with it some more after reading some other things I ran into a runaway engine and had to stop it at the fuel shut off. I have OP F/A and didn't have them on good and one rattled off. So I am thinking it was because of that.
Anyways, after that happened I checked all three plugs. Might add once the motor finally shut off cylinder 2 was hot to touch, not to bad but still hot. It ran away for about 10 secs. The front and back were warm so about normal. I pulled the plugs and cylinder 2 was a nice brown color but dry, the cylinder appeared to be well oiled. 1&2 where not colored at all, still looked new but were oily, but not burnt oil. I can get it to idle but it seems a bit high, but maybe it is not. I am really not sure without the tach working. My thinking of of idling should be a nice steady lope, but you can tell it is high in RPM's, just not sure how high or heck it might even be perfect.
Hoping someone could give me some direction where to go from here as I really can't afford to take it to a shop to have the carbs tuned. The only shop out here is kinda pricey.
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