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  1. #1

    Question 96 Polaris Slt 78 Stator Replacment

    Ok I am replacing a stator on my 96 slt 780. I need to know if anybody has a diagram on the removal of the motor or directions on it. I also need to know where the stator is located on it. This is my first time trying this so any help would be great. I tried taking it to a authorized repair shop and when they said 3k to replace and re-do carbs on another ski i had...i was floored...anyone that can help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Well, here you go.

    There are a lot of little things to pay attention to when removing and re-installing an engine, and I am not going to list them all here.

    Pay attention to any shims under the engine mounts. Make note of where they were, so they go back where they came from.

    It is also recommended you buy or borrow an engine alignment tool, so when you re-install the engine you can adjust and confirm the engine is in exactly the correct alignment with the jet pump.

    While you have it off, now would be a good time to inspect the jet pump bearings, and lubricate the splines on both ends of the drive shaft. Don't loose the little rubber bumpers from the ends of the drive shaft

    Polaris Fuji (blue) engine

    Engine Removal and Installation - Fuji 650, 750, 780cc

  3. #3

    OH MAN

    Well thanks a lot....ya know starting to get that......3k wasnt really so bad feeling...but....on the other hand...its a good chance for me to get to know the inner workins of my ski. Thanks so much for the help. ....i will let ya come and do it for me if ya want???!!!! lol..thanks again

  4. #4

    Stator replacement

    Ok does the 96 slt 780 engine just have to come out to replace the stator? if it is on the front of the engine can it not just be done with the engine in?? again my first time so dont make fun to munch

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Are you comfortable swinging wrenches and doing the work? Do you have access to wrenches and shop tools?

    Some guys have removed the flywheel (which is the hardest part), with the engine in the hull. But it sure isn't easy, especially the first time.

    The fuel tank might have to come out to give you room to work. And sometimes the flywheel is really stuck on there, which means you need to apply a lot of force to the flywheel puller tool to get it to release.

    I will let others who have worked on your particular model chime in.

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Cleveland OH
    The engine can stay in the hull.

    You will most likely want to drain and remove the fuel tank for more room to work.

    What's your location? Often a member that lives nearby will lend a hand.

  7. #7

    Talking Slt 780

    Well i am in wichita falls, texas...and I am always about getting help. If it can stay in then I wont pull it. If anyone is in the area and feel like helping I will get the part ordered and we can set up a time together and get it knocked out. I dont have a flywheel puller so I will have to either buy or borrow one. If some one can help that would be AWESOME>>!!!!!! I'll buy the BEER.., Pizza, provide some tunes and throw some cash out there...

  8. #8
    Hayabusa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Trenton Michigan
    It's a back breaker changing the stator while the engine is installed but like already mentioned, it can be done. An air or electric impact will help with the removal of the flywheel. There's not much room in there to get any torque on the nut or puller, so it can help a lot. Removal of the stator retaining screws can also be a real problem. I've had some that were easy to remove and others, that were not. They're phillips head screws with lock washers and loctite on them, from the factory. The heads strip easily. A hand impact driver can work well but once again, it's difficult to use one in such tight spaces. If you strip the heads of these screws, you're probably going to have to pull the engine, in order to make the repair. When you get the screws out, may I suggest that you don't reuse them. Go out and get yourself 3 stainless allen head cap screws and use those instead. I've attached a pic so you can see what I'm talking about. If you ever have to get back in there to adjust timing or make a repair, you'll be glad you did.

    Good luck.
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