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  1. #1
    Cliffy's Avatar
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    780 to 785 Pro Air Filter Mod (flame arrestor)

    Xlint told me about doing this and i wanna just clarifiy a few things

    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    What people think is an air filter, is actually a flame arrestor.

    Notice how your air cleaner box/flame arrestor has plastic all the way around? Like this pic.




    Now notice how the "skirt" around the sides are missing from the PRO 785 in this pic?




    That will allow better air flow.


    So just cut the sides off, but make sure to leave enough at the top to make a proper "lid" that seals to the filter element.
    I understand the cutting it down just to keep the top of the element water tight however has anyone else done this and have apic of the finished product?

    Also Xlint said
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Might have to turn your high speed screws out another 1/8 turn or so.
    Wheres the screw so i know where it is, should i adjust it now or later when im back on the water??

    Also how do i go about kiving th eair filter element a clean??

    thanks guys
    Neil


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliffy View Post
    ...Also how do i go about giving the air filter [Flame Arrestor] element a clean?...
    Soap and water, rinse, let dry.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Don't cut too much. You can always make another cut.

    The high speed screws are at the top of the carbs. Often with limiter caps on them. You should still be able to get about an 1/8 of turn OUT more even with them installed.

    Part # 45



    Just use compressed air to blow the element from the inside out. It shouldn't really even be dirty.

    Very seldom are there dusty conditions over water.

  4. #4
    Cliffy's Avatar
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    cheers for the info guys

    So each carb needs the screw turned??

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliffy View Post
    ...So each carb needs the screw turned??
    Yes, and you need to keep them in sync.

    If you have not done so yet, take the time to count the number of full turns, and partial turns, to lightly seat each carb screw (high and low, on each carb). Stop turning as soon as you feel increased resistance.

    Record each screw position to 1/8 turn accuracy.

    Then turn each screw back out the same number of full and partial turns.

    If you find that the screws are not similar across all three carbs, something is not quite right.

    Your engine is essentially three single cylinder engines running in tandem. Each carb and cylinder 'motor' is running in parallel with the others.

    Unless required by your engine configuration, the carb settings should either be the same, or very close, across the three carbs. Check the factory service manual carb settings for your engine.

  6. #6
    Cliffy's Avatar
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    Cheers K447

    Ive been out this morning and had a look at the carb setting screw (well I think they are them)

    I found two of the screws are at a angle and ones straight here's the pics
    Straight T head screw


    Angle screw

    Angle screw


    Whats this T shaped screw for the larger one near the throtle cable


    Random carb pics




    regarding the two angled screws and the one flat one im guessing these all need to be set the same?

    thanks
    Neil

  7. #7
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    Your going to have to remove the F/A base to get to the other screws, there should be six adj. screws total, 2 on each carb one on each side of the carb. If you need I could go take some pics on my 750 carbs their easier to see on the blue carbs(same carbs just different color)

  8. #8
    Cliffy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thester71 View Post
    Your going to have to remove the F/A base to get to the other screws, there should be six adj. screws total, 2 on each carb one on each side of the carb. If you need I could go take some pics on my 750 carbs their easier to see on the blue carbs(same carbs just different color)

    So each adjustment screw should be the same?

    To remove the base plate its just a case of removing the 3 nuts from each top of the carbs

  9. #9
    Cliffy's Avatar
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    A pic would be helpful though

  10. #10
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    The F/A base is held on with 9 bolts(3 on each carb)
    The idle mixture needle (aka low speed adjusters) are the "T" handle screws on the mag (forward facing) side of the carbs down low.
    The high speed adjusters are on the pto(rear facing) side of the carbs up higher, these should have a limiting cap on them(a little black cap that prevents them from coming too far out of adjustment)
    The bigger "T" handle near the throttle cable is your idle adjuster.
    I hope the pics help, unfortunatly my manual is for 92-95 so I can't help you with the actual adjustments, but I can tell you that turning them clockwise will close them, and counterclockwise will open them
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