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  1. #1

    SLT 700 Loses power , cools off its good?

    Slt 700 went to use it battery was too weak to fire , soooo we jumped the ski with buddies diesel pickup (hindsight is 20/20) ran it on the hose it was great. brought it out in the bay after about 15 min of "idle spped" tried to accelerate but couldnt get more than 80% throttle sounded like starving for fuel, anyway longer i rode the wose it got to where it couldnt go upcurrent under its own power, went to sandbar tried to figure it out changed the plugs , hey its great, then 10 min later same thing , so I briing it home, washing ski , flushed motor , ran on hose for 30 min no prob?? maybe I fried the stator when I jumped it in am?? I did the stator tests with an ohm meter all were pretty well right on except for one test "EXCITER COIL- Black - Purple " = 1200 ohms my meter showed no continuity- the wierd for me is its not a no spark condition , but something is defintely failing


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vortecsix View Post
    SLT 700 went to use it battery was too weak to fire , soooo we jumped the ski with buddies diesel pickup (hindsight is 20/20) ran it on the hose it was great.

    brought it out in the bay after about 15 min of "idle speed" tried to accelerate but couldn't get more than 80% throttle sounded like starving for fuel,

    anyway longer I rode the worse it got to where it couldn't go up current under its own power, went to sandbar tried to figure it out changed the plugs , hey its great, then 10 min later same thing ,

    so I bring it home, washing ski , flushed motor , ran on hose for 30 min no prob??

    maybe I fried the stator when I jumped it in am??

    I did the stator tests with an ohm meter all were pretty well right on except for one test "EXCITER COIL- Black - Purple " = 1200 ohms my meter showed no continuity- the weird for me is its not a no spark condition , but something is definitely failing
    Welcome to the Hulk

    Is this your first PWC?
    First Polaris?

    What model year is your SLT 700?
    Tip: Last two digits on the rear deck HIN number plate are the model year.

    First thing I must say;
    Any time you suspect a problem with a 2-stroke PWC engine, do not continue to ride it. These engines can be easily damaged by continuing to run them while something is wrong.

    You might have been lucky this time, but the risk of engine damage is real.

    Next thing;
    The maximum run time on the garden hose is normally less than two minutes.

    The through-hull bearing seals and jet pump stator seals are normally cooled by the water flowing through the jet pump. When running on the trailer with a garden hose, those shaft seals are not being cooled, and can melt and deform.

    In addition to whatever else needs fixing on the engine, I suggest you plan to remove the jet pump and rebuild the through-hull bearing with new seals.

    You might want to replace the pump stator seals at the same time. If the seals allow water into the jet pump, the pump stator bearings will begin to rust and die.

    Regarding your engine diagnosis, running the engine on the trailer doesn't prove much. There is no jet pump water load on the engine, so it can seem to run OK even if something is wrong.

    Start with a compression test of each cylinder.
    Throttle held wide open, both spark plugs out. Record the numbers, check each cylinder twice. Tell us what you find.

    What is the part number on the CDI module inside the electrical box?

    I suspect you have an original ignition system on that machine. They are known to fail over time.

    Polaris issued an Ignition System Update Kit, which is much more reliable than the original. The update kit includes a new design CDI, new design stator, and new ignition coils.

    I expect you will need to purchase and install the Update Kit. Part number for the 1996-1997 SL700 Ignition Update Kit is 2873355. Cost is about $300 from PartsPitStop, or another Polaris parts OEM source.

  3. #3
    hello and thank you, yes it is my first polaris and my first ski, i,ve had about 4 years now, i changed the thru hull bearing when i first got it, i know what you mean isnt that the one with the grease fitting? anyways these symptoms happened last year went to do a compression check battery dead so that will have to wait awhile , the ski is a 1996, the cdi modules nuber is 105 552.02 , i saw a post about red and yellow and black cdi's but didnt see any resin unless its on the side facing the black box?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vortecsix View Post
    hello and thank you, yes it is my first Polaris and my first ski, i,ve had about 4 years now,

    I changed the thru hull bearing when i first got it, i know what you mean isnt that the one with the grease fitting?

    anyways these symptoms happened last year

    went to do a compression check battery dead so that will have to wait awhile ,

    the ski is a 1996,

    the CDI module's number is 105 552.02...
    That is an original CDI part number.

    Check the compression and anything else mechanical, and of course eye-ball the wiring inside and outside the electrical box for damage or loose connections.

    My guess is that you will be installing the Ignition Update Kit

    The through-hull bearing seals can simply be replaced. Since you may have cooked them, I would just replace them all anyway, especially the ones inside the jet pump stator. They are standard sizes, available from many sources.

    Seal size specs can be found in the link in my signature.

  5. #5
    Compression check front cylinder 114 rear 112, also noticed also checking things out and noticed impeller is really dragging in the wear ring , might be late spring before it sees the water

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by vortecsix View Post
    ... impeller is really dragging in the wear ring ...
    Pull the jet pump off, if you haven't already. Just undo the four long bolts, not the nuts on the pump base

    When you have pump off, and the drive shaft removed, spin the impeller by hand. Feel for any grinding or noises. If it doesn't turn really smoothly, replace the bearings and the seals in the stator.

    If the impeller is worn, it can be refurbished for $25 plus shipping. If the wear ring (the part the impeller fits inside) is worn, you may need to find a replacement.

    The specification is a maximum of 0.020 inches clearance between blade tips and wear ring (with the blade centered in the ring), and preferably 0.010 inches or less clearance.

  7. #7
    do you think it is worthwhile to replace just the stator, (electrical system)or do I have to change(upgrade) the whole system? and btw I was able to clean up the edges of the impeller and seat it back it feels good. but the rear seal on the thru hull is toast you were right
    Last edited by vortecsix; 04-02-2010 at 05:18 AM. Reason: clarify

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by vortecsix View Post
    do you think it is worthwhile to replace just the stator, or do I have to change the whole system?

    ...I was able to clean up the edges of the impeller and seat it back it feels good.

    ...the rear seal on the thru hull is toast...
    The original magneto stator design and the updated magneto stator design are different, and must be matched to the corresponding old or new design CDI.

    The old ignition design is simply not as reliable as the new version. The cost of the Update Kit is well worth it, in terms of future reliability.

    With the ignition update kit, once you get the new stator installed under the flywheel, the rest simply plugs in inside the electrical box. Takes just a few minutes.

    Make sure the impeller blade clearances to the wear ring are within spec.

    Could you post a few clear photos of what a burned out drive shaft seal looks like? Others might find it helpful to see what happens when you run the engine for too long on the garden hose.

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