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  1. #1
    DrWeaseL's Avatar
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    MSX 140 - sputtering power loss at mid to high range

    I have a 2003 Polaris MSX 140, has only 45hrs in it. had it professionaly winterized last november. took them out on the water today, and after about 1 hour of riding the polaris while at full throttle, became sluggish... speed dropped to about 30mph. i thought i might have sucked something up, i checked and there were no obstructions... removed the plugs when i got home they look fine, i looked but cant find a fuel filter...

    any suggestions would be appreciated!

    Thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    The links below will provide some useful info.

    Did you see a red lamp or warning message on the display?

    What is the service history on this engine?
    Did you purchase it new?

    The more info you can provide, the better

    1) Check cylinder compression on each cylinder.
    All spark plugs out, throttle held wide open.
    A good engine will have all cylinders with 5% of each other.

    2) I would suggest you also check the fuel pressure.

    The fuel pump on all Polaris fuel injected 2-stroke machines is electric, and is located inside the fuel tank. The fuel filter is integral with the fuel pump, inside the tank.

    Is is not uncommon for the fuel pressure regulator, which is also inside the fuel pump assembly, to work loose and fall off inside the tank. When that happens the fuel pressure drops from the normal 20+ PSI to almost nothing.

    The good news is that the fuel pump is repairable.

    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines
    Virage i, Virage TXi, Genesis i, MSX 140

    How to repair a Ficht fuel pump - pressure regulator has fallen inside
    Symptoms include very low fuel pressure, rough running above idle, engine surging, and lack of power above idle.
    Red light and 'Check Engine' message typically appear on the display.


    Edit: Since the original thread, an alternative repair has been identified which can be done without opening the fuel tank or removing the fuel pump;
    Alternative Ficht fuel pump repair using Kawasaki 16162-3701 inline pressure regulator
    Last edited by K447; 04-13-2011 at 06:56 PM.

  3. #3
    DrWeaseL's Avatar
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    Thanks so much for the post, this sounds exactly like what is happening:

    Did you see a red lamp or warning message on the display? not when it happened but i recall seeing the red light come on briefly when i shut down to check for a blockage and then restarted the ski.

    What is the service history on this engine? I do not know the service history it was bought used with 25 hours on it.
    Did you purchase it new?
    Used.

    I will test these items this weekend, i have to go out and buy the cyl and fuel pressure testers since i do not own them. If the fuel pump had another issue that was not the hose that fell off would the ski still run? I guess im wondering why to test the fuel pressure if there was zero pressure would the engine still run and idle perfectly?


    Since we are on the topic, the pneumatic arm that holds open the front lid of the trunk.. do you know where to find an alternative replacement mine was frozen and no longer works.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrWeaseL View Post
    ...What is the service history on this engine?
    I do not know the service history it was bought used with 25 hours on it.

    ...
    why to test the fuel pressure if there was zero pressure would the engine still run and idle perfectly?

    Since we are on the topic, the pneumatic arm that holds open the front lid of the trunk.. do you know where to find an alternative replacement mine was frozen and no longer works.
    How long have you owned this MSX 140?
    How many hours on it now?

    The fuel pressure doesn't drop all the way to zero, and the fuel pump is still circulating fuel through the system.

    The fuel pressure is just way below normal (if the regulator has fallen out), so when the injectors really need to move some fuel volume to deliver engine power, the injectors just don't get as much fuel as they need. Hence the stumble. At low RPM it can seem just fine, even with low fuel pressure.

    The EMM does not directly monitor fuel pressure. It only notices when the engine is not running right, and flashes the red lamp. The lamp will go out as soon as the engine starts behaving again (lower RPM).

    The easiest solution for the hood support is to order a replacement gas spring from a Polaris parts OEM source. Part number is 7042260.

    About $40 from PartsPitStop

  5. #5
    DrWeaseL's Avatar
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    How long have you owned this MSX 140? Bought it last Year in August
    How many hours on it now?
    i think it said 52hrs now

    Thanks again your information has been very helpful. I hope this task / repair goes easy :0)

  6. #6
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    Polaris Clips (Fuel Lines)

    ok i am down to getting the gas tank in position.. is there a trick to these silly fuel line hose clamps they used im having to cut them off... pain in the arse..

    Ok so i ran into another problem... do i need to remove the steering column to get the tank loose? as seen in the picture below i cannot budge it i literally am bumping this black capped item on the top of the fuel tank, and im not sure what that is...
    Last edited by DrWeaseL; 04-03-2010 at 06:36 PM. Reason: add picture and question

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrWeaseL View Post
    ok i am down to getting the gas tank in position.. is there a trick to these silly fuel line hose clamps they used I'm having to cut them off... pain in the arse..

    Ok so i ran into another problem... do i need to remove the steering column to get the tank loose? as seen in the picture below i cannot budge it i literally am bumping this black capped item on the top of the fuel tank, and im not sure what that is...
    The factory fuel line clamps are called ear clamps, or sometimes Oetiker clamps. They are considered a better clamp, in terms of reliability and resistance to leaks. You do need to cut them to remove them.

    Replacement ear clamps cost about 20 cents each, and can be tightened using dull side cutter pliers. They will maintain a slight spring pressure on the lines, even if the hose material shrinks, and they resist vibration.

    It does look like you need to create some working space above the tank. Can you slide the tank forward or rearward at all?

    The fuel pump assembly lifts straight up out of the tank, so you will need the tank opening to be in the clear to get the fuel pump out. The fuel pump itself is the full height of the tank.

    You can find all the Polaris Industries parts diagrams online here.

  8. #8
    DrWeaseL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The factory fuel line clamps are called ear clamps, or sometimes Oetiker clamps. They are considered a better clamp, in terms of reliability and resistance to leaks. You do need to cut them to remove them.

    Replacement ear clamps cost about 20 cents each, and can be tightened using dull side cutter pliers. They will maintain a slight spring pressure on the lines, even if the hose material shrinks, and they resist vibration.

    It does look like you need to create some working space above the tank. Can you slide the tank forward or rearward at all?

    The fuel pump assembly lifts straight up out of the tank, so you will need the tank opening to be in the clear to get the fuel pump out. The fuel pump itself is the full height of the tank.

    You can find all the Polaris Industries parts diagrams online here.
    Ok i got the tank loose.. but there is NO way i can pull it forward enough to pull the fuel pump straight in any direction, im afraid of damaging it... im thinking of trying to pop the plug back into place with the pump half way out of the tank...

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrWeaseL View Post
    Ok i got the tank loose.. but there is NO way i can pull it forward enough to pull the fuel pump straight in any direction, I'm afraid of damaging it...

    I'm thinking of trying to pop the plug back into place with the pump half way out of the tank...
    I guess Polaris expected that the engine would come out first, then the fuel tank.

    I did fix my own fuel pump in a Virage hull, which is a different shape up front than the MSX. I was able to just slide the tank forward, then wiggle the pump body up and out.
    Edit: Click here for the recommended method for reinforcing the mounting of the fuel pressure regulator.

    Did you actually test the fuel pressure yet?
    What pressure did you read?

    Did the pressure jump up when you clamped the return hose?

    I really don't know how tricky it would be to try and fix the pump with it still half in the tank, and the whole thing jammed up under the front shroud.
    Last edited by K447; 06-08-2016 at 10:27 AM.

  10. #10
    DrWeaseL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I guess Polaris expected that the engine would come out first, then the fuel tank.

    I did fixed my own fuel pump in a Virage hull, which is a different shape up front than the MSX. I was able to just slide the tank forward, then wiggle the pump body up and out.

    Did you actually test the fuel pressure yet?
    What pressure did you read?

    Did the pressure jump up when you clamped the return hose?

    I really don't know how tricky it would be to try and fix the pump with it still half in the tank, and the whole thing jammed up under the front shroud.
    Honestly i went and bought 2 different guages to measure the pressure, and neither of them came with right schrader connection. so frustrated at that point i gave up on reading the pressure and went right to taking it apart, as i spent the same amount of time fussing with the pressure and guages as i did dissasembling the whole deal. that is until i get to the actual pump removal...

    i will try to get it in this way, do you see a problem with using a tie-wrap to secure that metal end piece (pressure regulator) to the side so that going forward the riding and bouncing wont make the connector come out of the socket again?

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