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  1. #1
    dolson's Avatar
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    Slt700 pump seal question

    I am rebuilding a 97 slt 700 pump, do both seals go up against each other in the front of the stator? the guts of the stator are " Seal> Seal> bearing> spacer> bearing> cone" both seals face the same direction? any ticks or need to knows when putting this together?

    Thank you


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Jet pump stator re-assembly tips

    Welcome to the Hulk

    You have the assembly sequence correct. The seal lips face forward/out, and both face the same way.

    You didn't mention the short impeller spacer, which the front seal lips actually ride on.

    The stub shaft also has two O-rings.. Make sure both are good condition, or new.

    The primary tip is to use heat and cold to make it easier to get the bearings fully seated. You put the bearings in the freezer, while heating the stator in the over (200F is plenty).

    The temperature difference makes the bearings just drop right in

    The spacer should not be tight or loose between the bearings. It should sit nicely between the bearings, and be able to side slip a little, without any real pressure against the bearing faces.

    Grease the seals and stub shaft before assembling.

    Buy and use the impeller tool to torque the impeller to 100 ft-lbs. This is important, as engine power will not tighten the impeller properly.

    Make sure the O-ring in the back of the stator is in good condition. Inspect the tail cone for hairline cracks. The lightly grease to O-ring and tail cone, and slide it into place.

    Polaris does sell a rubber gasket for the tail cone, and it can be used on the older years, even though it was not stock back then.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The following might be useful

    Click here for guidance to help you get your Polaris PWC running properly, and keep it on the water.

    Jet Pump Maintenance and Service


    While you have the drive shaft out, now would be a good time to replace the through-hull drive shaft seals.

    Replacing the seals and bushing in the through-hull assembly


    There are different versions of the through-hull bearing
    Early units with crimped ends can not be repaired, but they can be directly replaced with the newer style assembly (1996-2004, except MSX)
    Well, maybe the crimped style can be rebuilt
    Click here for a list of parts sources

    The seals tend to wear more than the brass bushing, so probably do not need to change the bushing, unless it is worn.
    Replacement seals can be purchased from any Polaris OEM parts source, or generic seals may be installed.


    Generic Drive Shaft Seal carrier seal part# 8702 (Two required, or three?)


    www.ebearings.com SKF Rawhide 8702
    Shaft 0.875
    Bore 1.499
    OD 1.503
    Width 0.25


    SKF #563541 (22mmx38mmx8mm)

  4. #4
    dolson's Avatar
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    awesome thanks for the advice. I did not metion the other space because i do not have one. I bought the ski with the pump in peices. which makes it a little harder to put together. I ready have the bearings and one seal installed. the ski runs really good from what i head for the 5 seconds it ran and the ski is very clean. I will order a new spance and the new drive shaft seals that you recommened. I wanted to make it easy and just drop it off at a local polaris dealer and just have it fixed but they thought it was too old to be worked on, so it became another spring project to add to the list. thanks for the help.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You should have a look at the Polaris parts diagrams here;
    http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp

    Make sure you have the little rubber bumpers on each end of the drive shaft.

    Click the link in my signature for lots of other useful info

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