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Thread: SLT 780

  1. #1

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    Slt 780 no spark

    ok, so i have a polaris slt780 one summer i was riding it and it rode fine all day. i went back to the dock it sat for about 1.5 hours went to fire it up to take it to the ramp to pull it out for the day and it took a little bit if turning over to crank , but it started and ran fine to the ramp. i turned it off to wait my turn to pull it out and it didnt start again. i have checked it and i am getting fuel but no spark. I called a local polaris dealer and everyone has said the same thing Stator and CDI need to be replaced but i do not want to shell 0ut 700 on a 1996 ski, but i would like to fix it because i am very OCD about it and it looks brand new not to mention insurance replaced the motor a while back. Anways to the point, i was thinking of throwing a CDi unit at and seeing if it cranks because when it was running the battery was staying charged, and from what i have heard the Stator is like the alternator, and i do not feel like either pulling the motor out, and or fuel tank and pulling the motor cap off the front. would this sound like a good starting point? and is there any way to test the CDI i.e. resistance testing/continuity testing?


  2. #2
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    welcome to the hulk, you can test the stator and go from there and eliminate the cdi but you cant test the cdi, from what i have read.

    do a search and look threw the tech section.. lots of info.. the stator and cdi should not cost you 700 bucks if you do it your self.. totally diffrent animal but my 1050 motor update kit which was a stator,cdi and gasket was around 300, and i pulled the tank and had a shop put it in for 200... this is ust to give you an idea i do not think your cdi and stator would be any more then that

  3. #3

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    yeah no the parts are only about 350 i was saying 700 installed..but how do i test the stator?..it it like an alternator should be putting out about 14volts running? because thats what it was putting out running when i last rode it and the battery was not being drained?

  4. #4
    ryandi2's Avatar
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    im not sure what the specs are. but how did you test it the first time? use a multi meter but most of your questions can be found using search and looking threw the tech section

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    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk.

    What is the battery voltage while cranking?
    Stater specs are on the diagram below.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I am replying here, just so everything is in one place

    Quote Originally Posted by Paczowski123
    hey i had a quick question for you. i have a slt 780 with a no spark problem it took a while to start after riding all day cranked up and ran fine to the ramp to take it out then wouldn't start at the ramp

    everyone has told me at dealers CDI and Stator ...I would like to just replace the bad one if it is just one

    I used ... CDI and stator testing guide and I found all of the readings are about in range when i test the colored wires coming from the electrical box ... they all were pretty much in range accept for the exciter coil which was about 10 ohms off from 220

    ...the only major thing I did find was that when I tested the cylinder closest to the back of the ski it tested open?

    Is this a problem with the wire/coil?
    Welcome to the Hulk

    When testing the stator, or ignition coils, you disconnect the connectors for those wires, then use the multi-meter to do the appropriate ohm tests.

    If you unplugged the ignition coils, and one of the three tested differently (open?) than the other two, then you may have a failed ignition coil.

    On the Fuji engines, the CDI fires all three spark plugs together, every time. If any one of the ignition coils is bad, it can kill spark to all cylinders.

    I think the exciter coil being slightly off from 220 ohms is not a problem.

    The stator wires are all in a cable bundle that runs forward from the electrical box towards the left front area of the engine. All the stator wires go into the front of the engine through a single sealed grommet.

  7. #7

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    ok so when you say you disconnect them from their connectors you mean disconnecting them from the plugs which connect into the CDI unit? and when i test the spark plug wires i would need to disconnect them from each other and the CDI unit as well since they are in a series circuit to isolate just one plug wire?

  8. #8

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    ok well everything checked out ok accept for one when testing. i disconnected the green/red and the red/white wire from the cdi and tested them and it came up like 3.5 and i had to turn it up to 20k ohms. this was testing the side of the wires that leads to the motor not to the cdi, is this the correct side to be testing?.not good with reading the meter but does this mean 23,500 ohms which would be way off from the exciter coil spec of 490 ohms..this i assume meaning i need a new stator? and i mistyped on the first PM i meant to say about 10 ohms off from the trigger coil spec of 220.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paczowski123
    ok so when you say you disconnect them from their connectors you mean disconnecting them from the plugs which connect into the CDI unit?
    Correct

    and when i test the spark plug wires i would need to disconnect them from each other and the CDI unit as well since they are in a series circuit to isolate just one plug wire?
    Correct

    so when you say i need to disconnect the wires before testing them did you mean disconnect them from the CDI and test them on the stator side or disconnect them and test them on the CDI side.
    Yes, Stator side connections when testing the stator

    also, when i disconnected the wires and tested them the only problem i found was one the green/red and red/white wires on the stator side of the connection.

    the spec in the write up you had said that this "exciter circuit" spec was 490 ohms i had to turn my voltmeter up to 20k then it finally read 3.5

    I'm not good at reading those in that way but im assuming that reading is 23,500 ohms which is way above spec correct me if im wrong. so would that mean there is a problem withing the stator and it would need replacing?
    Recheck your stator coil measurements.

    It does sound like the stator exciter coil is bad.

    Tip: No need to send separate messages to me.
    I will check back here when I can

  10. #10

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    sorry bout that didnt know if u wouldcheck here or your messages first..ok now would the exciter coil being bad cause the ski not to run?.. or would it just cause the ski to run off battery voltage till it killed it?

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