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  1. #1

    Thinking of buying a 2004 Honda ARX1200T3 AquaTrax F-12X. Any Hints?

    Whats up all. Hopefully going to be a new owner of a 2004 Honda ARX1200T3 AquaTrax F-12X. Ski has about 98 hours on it. Ocean use and is on a consignment deal at a Marina. Are there any common issues I should be aware of with this particular model and any things I should look for? I am a master tech for the AUTOMOTIVE end of Honda so I am comfortable buying a PWC made by Honda. I also have a 1000RR and have Two Acuras. I am all about Honda!! Any help would be appreciated. I am planning to go take a look at the ski this Sunday. Price is fair based on BB Private and trade in value. Thanks again guys!


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by RACINGHART03 View Post
    Whats up all. Hopefully going to be a new owner of a 2004 Honda ARX1200T3 AquaTrax F-12X. Ski has about 98 hours on it. Ocean use and is on a consignment deal at a Marina. Are there any common issues I should be aware of with this particular model and any things I should look for? I am a master tech for the AUTOMOTIVE end of Honda so I am comfortable buying a PWC made by Honda. I also have a 1000RR and have Two Acuras. I am all about Honda!! Any help would be appreciated. I am planning to go take a look at the ski this Sunday. Price is fair based on BB Private and trade in value. Thanks again guys!
    Check the turbo & wastgate for corrosion. The owner hopefully kept it sprayed down good with crc-656 or equivelant. Ask about flushing. IT should be flushed with fresh water after each ride in ocean or brackish water. I have an 04 and I have been very happy with it over 200hrs. The best thing is to get a manual for the basics. With your smarts you should be able to handle moast any problems. Hopefully you won't have any. If you start it up run it until it warms up. You can foul the plugs if you don't. I don't have the mechanical knowledge you do so I had to get lots of help from the other owners, and trial and error. Good luck hope this will help.

  3. #3
    THX for the reply! I am not too concerned about troubleshooting. (Hopefully I wont need them lol) We at Honda like to use the same schematics and engine concepts cuz they have been tried and true. The impeller corrosion was already on my mind. I will pull the inlet pipe and check for shaft play as well. There was almost no corrosion on any of the engine components in the pix. On little spot on the head. At 200 hours you are still on your original turbo? That makes me feel pretty good. I am guessing a turbo prob runs about aa grand. We run a turbo on one of our makes in the auto line and I am "eh" on it. Not really a fan. As far as internals and electronics I would put them against anyone. Its just the salt thing that gets under my skin a bit. Is there any way to visually inspect the water passages to see if they were flushed regularly? I was lucky enough to speak to the owner and of course it was flushed every use yada yada and I am guessing any responsible owner would do this after every use but with salt water I am thinking just the air alone could cause problems. I know I can tell a Jersey Shore car the minute I put one on the lift!!

  4. #4
    If you get a service manual it will help. There are some sacrifical zink anodes on the engine and exhaust that you can check. I still have the same turbo. I am also running the macboost stage II kit on it. The stock turbos are pricey around $2500. So you can't overlube if you know what I mean. Mac has some aftermarket stuff, go to macboost.com. You can also go to PWCToday and the guys there are very sharp on the hondas. Do a search on the threads and you can find the answers to almost anything Honda.

  5. #5
    german06's Avatar
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    service manual

    Quote Originally Posted by RACINGHART03 View Post
    THX for the reply! I am not too concerned about troubleshooting. (Hopefully I wont need them lol) We at Honda like to use the same schematics and engine concepts cuz they have been tried and true. The impeller corrosion was already on my mind. I will pull the inlet pipe and check for shaft play as well. There was almost no corrosion on any of the engine components in the pix. On little spot on the head. At 200 hours you are still on your original turbo? That makes me feel pretty good. I am guessing a turbo prob runs about aa grand. We run a turbo on one of our makes in the auto line and I am "eh" on it. Not really a fan. As far as internals and electronics I would put them against anyone. Its just the salt thing that gets under my skin a bit. Is there any way to visually inspect the water passages to see if they were flushed regularly? I was lucky enough to speak to the owner and of course it was flushed every use yada yada and I am guessing any responsible owner would do this after every use but with salt water I am thinking just the air alone could cause problems. I know I can tell a Jersey Shore car the minute I put one on the lift!!
    Ihave the service manual if you need it letme know.

  6. #6

    good choice

    just a few thing to check prop for one if you can see affair bit of light around edge of prop request that be replace kill top end speed terribliy and give the motor good look over any white fluffy deposit dont buy it

  7. #7
    Hey thanks everyone. Hopefully this one will pan out. If not I am pretty much dead set on a Honda f-12x so I will keep you all posted. One other question. How much of a corrosion diff would I see on a turbo impeller wheel when it has been in fresh water as opposed to a salt water ski? Also is the turbo inlet pipe easy to get to and pull off so I can have a look at it? Thx again for all the help!!

  8. #8
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    If you pull the three bolts out of the large aluminum exhaust elbow, and then release the top hose clamp where it goes into the waterbox, you will get an unobstructed view of the turbo and the non-marine duty [automotive cad plated] waste gate actuator. This requires a 12mm socket/wratchet, 12mm box end wrench and a 7 mm nut driver.
    If it is not rusted out you should be ok. The Honda motors are pretty bulletproof except for the too weak valve springs.

  9. #9
    Thanks all. Well that one was junk. Using some of your tips and my current automotive knowledge I knew to walk from this one. I did find another in the type of condition I would expect someone to keep a jet ski in. Near perfect condition. Few loading scratches on hull but NO chips. Only has 12 hours on it. Engine looks as new. Minimal wear on the unit at all. I am most likely going with this one. I dont mind paying a little extra as long as it has been taken care of the way I plan to take care of it. After looking at a few salt water use units it is plain as day to me that this one and the R12X they have were lake use only. Is there ANY way to run or check a vin history on a Jet Ski? I have the vin and was wondering if there was a way to check the title history? Also what are all of your takes on chips in the hull? When I say chips I mean chips into the fiberglass but not too deep? Just for my own knowledge. I am on the fence between the power and agility of the R12X but the wife is concerned her and I exceed the weight limit lol. I am a big guy at 6'3 250. She is 120. The R had a rating of 350 or so. the F was 550 or so. I dont plan on taking three people out but the rope fitting was a nice feature. I guess for tubes and skis.

  10. #10
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    The F model is good for any more than one/pulling people and the R model is really good for one and jumping surf at the beach.
    My Wife and I like the F model due to the storage for a cooler along with the stability and pulling ability [we even pull a parasail].

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