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  1. #1

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    2006 F-12X questions

    I picked up a 2006 F-12X with 24 hours in excellent condition from a coworker. It had an oil change at 10 hours and nothing else done.

    I've been browsing this board for a little bit and think I should do the CRC spray stuff and maybe change out the plugs. My question is what else is should be done maintenance wise?

    Thanks


  2. #2
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    I would use a high quality waterproof marine grease to grease the tailshaft bearing [zert fitting under the rear seat] and coat the turbo/wastegate actuator with CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Spray.
    I also have a post on PWCTODAY.com on inspecting the cooling passages in the exhaust elbow, just go to the Honda section.
    You might also want to consider modifying your intake grate and your ride plate.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by sg916 View Post
    I picked up a 2006 F-12X with 24 hours in excellent condition from a coworker. It had an oil change at 10 hours and nothing else done.

    I've been browsing this board for a little bit and think I should do the CRC spray stuff and maybe change out the plugs. My question is what else is should be done maintenance wise?

    Thanks
    Don't use any spray or just any crc. Use CRC-656 marine spray Don't use wd40 or any spray with silicon. Honda makes a spray also. If you grease your zerk fitting BE Carefull not to overdo it or you will blow out your seal. Just a squirt every 50hrs or so Should be fine. No need to change the plugs before at least 200+ hrs unless you foul them out. If you run your ski on the hose or anytime you crank it up be sure to let it run until the engine warms up before you shut it off. Shutting it off to quick can cause the plugs to foul out and Honda brand plugs are $$$$$ High. you can buy them at Advance Auto for about 1/2 the price. If you ride in brackish or salt water be sure to flush the engine out well with fresh water and spray the wastegate and turbo VERRY WELL before and after each ride. The best thing you can do to save yourself money and trouble down the road is to get an owners manual and read it!! It tells you just abut all you need to know. The wastegate will be hard to see because it's under the exhaust but use a mirror and you will see the wastegate. If you look at a R12X you can see everything clearly. It's the same on the F just covered by the piping. The manual says change the oil every 50hrs and you can ask a million people and get a million and one answers. I don't recomend going that long on the turbo models because with the turbos you get oil dillution with the gas. Most of my friends try to change there oil at around 25hrs. I am a little more anal and change mine at 20hrs. I can still smell gas in the oil. But not to bad. Pull you seat and air out the engine compartment before each ride (gas fumes) and check the oil. I hope this helps you out. Congrats on your ride. I have over 200hrs on my R and about 150 on my F with no problems.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by JRINJAX View Post
    I would use a high quality waterproof marine grease to grease the tailshaft bearing [zert fitting under the rear seat] and coat the turbo/wastegate actuator with CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Spray.
    I also have a post on PWCTODAY.com on inspecting the cooling passages in the exhaust elbow, just go to the Honda section.
    You might also want to consider modifying your intake grate and your ride plate.
    Yea What you said

  5. #5
    I just bought a new left over 07, whats the problem with the intake grate and the ride plate?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by git_sum View Post
    I just bought a new left over 07, whats the problem with the intake grate and the ride plate?
    What do you mean? Ther's nothing wrong. The intake on the Honda is a lot larger than on the other brand of skis. I don't think this helps with the top end speed of the ski. A smaller design might speed it up. imo.

  7. #7
    well the one guy said something about modifying the intake grate and the ride plate as if somethign was wrong with both?

  8. #8
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    The stock intake grate is restrictive and causes cavatitation when you launch. You also can not get your hands inside to remove debris from the impeller. You can just cut out a bar or two or change to a Solas grate [if its a F model].
    The modified ride plate removes metal from the rear mounting feet raising the rear of the plate and the bow to the 'ski, which improves the ride greatly.

  9. #9
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRINJAX View Post
    The stock intake grate is restrictive and causes cavatitation when you launch. You also can not get your hands inside to remove debris from the impeller. You can just cut out a bar or two or change to a Solas grate [if its a F model].
    The modified ride plate removes metal from the rear mounting feet raising the rear of the plate and the bow to the 'ski, which improves the ride greatly.
    Agreed. It comes "unhooked" pretty often and porpoises alot.
    Sola's grate takes about 3 mph off top speed but keeps you hooked up.
    R&D grate less agressive and 2- mph decrease. Although you loose some top end using these you gain over long haul by staying hooked up.
    Sola's 17/29 impeller is supposed to be a great upgrade.
    I would like to know more about this ride plate mod. Sounds easy to do. Any pix or instructions available??
    The big plus: I know many that have Honda's, I know none that have had to be towed in.
    With the exception of heavily modded racers.

  10. #10
    Does the ride plate mod effect top end at all? If the f-12x's only run about 61-62 mph i'd hate the fact that i'd be losing another 2-3mph and get sucked up by a lesser jet ski. Either way where i ride most of the time the water is extremely choopy until you make your way up into a cove or something. So on that note it might be worth it.

    But also has anyone tried the new R&D box that's out now? Is it going to be any better than the macboost chip?

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