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Thread: Ride plate fit

  1. #1
    Budman's Avatar
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    Ride plate fit

    I have a 98 Gp1200. It has a riva ride plate. I noticed the the front edge of the ride plate is higher than the intake grate. If I shim the front of the ride plate with two stainless washers the ride plate and intake grate match up perfectly. But the two front corners of the ride plate stick down below the hull. Should I grind the front corners of the ride plate down so they are flush with the hull or is it ok like this? Maybe the ride plate and intake don't need to match up. If anyone out there has experimented with this please let me know what is the best way to fit the ride plate.
    Thanks,
    Budman


  2. #2
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    I have my R&D ride plate shimmed down in the front. It is almost flush with the intake grate. The corners of my plate do not hang below the hull like your Riva plate. You will scrub major speed if the plate is hanging below the hull. Shimming the front of the plate down will give you more bow lift (and more speed), as long as the ride plate is not hanging below the hull.

  3. #3

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    why do you need to grind anything? isn't the plate suppose to just bolt on?

  4. #4
    Hybrid AWD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amf133 View Post
    why do you need to grind anything? isn't the plate suppose to just bolt on?
    It does just bolt in, but fine tuning a ride plate, and other items will allow you to gain more speed since it will eliminate unwanted drag.

  5. #5
    Budman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 97GPSLEEPER View Post
    I have my R&D ride plate shimmed down in the front. It is almost flush with the intake grate. The corners of my plate do not hang below the hull like your Riva plate. You will scrub major speed if the plate is hanging below the hull. Shimming the front of the plate down will give you more bow lift (and more speed), as long as the ride plate is not hanging below the hull.
    Thats what I thought If the corners are hanging down it would cause drag. But without the shims on the front of the ride plate it is higher than the intake grate. Will this slight step from the grate to the plate cause any problems? I'm not sure if I should just take the front shims out or leave them and grind some of the ride plate to make it flush with the hull.
    Also I was wondering If anyone every fills the bolt pockets with anything to make it flat. Thanks
    Budman

  6. #6
    BoostCrzy's Avatar
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    can you take some pics for us to see??...I would say take off a bit of material on the sides to get it flush if possible....but otherwise a little step in the center wont hurt much....its VERY important to make sure nothing is hanging lower...that is key.

  7. #7
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    The ride plate being higher than the intake grate is normal on the GP hull, it is not hurting anything. However, if you start to try and find more speed, (shimming the front down) just make sure no section of the ride plate hangs below the hull or intake grate.

    Now, filling in the bolt holes.....you betcha. I have every hole underneath my ski filled with the exception of the front two intake grate bolt holes. Do a search for post that were started by me, and you will find everything I have done underneath my GP. It ran 64-65 as advertised when I got the motor back from Group K. Filling all of the bolt holes (12 total when you add the six on the intake grate, four on the ride plate, and the two on the front of the intake duct/pump shoe) got me in the 67-68 range. I picked up the last 2 mph my shimming my ride plate down in the front (69-70). All of my best speeds are in the superman riding position, with 5 gallons of fuel. I also removed my speedometer wheel and filled in that void. That was worth a few tenths.

  8. #8
    Budman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. I thought tweaking the underneath would help top speed but I didn't think it would be as much as your talking. It would be great if I could add 2 or 3 mph by working on the ride plate and filling holes. I always race my brother in law with his 02 seadoo RXDI. The two skis are dead even. Hole shot, top speed, handling, everything. No one ever wins. But when my head comes back from riva and some tweaking on the underside and we'll see who wins now. I will look at the ride plate again and see how much material would have to come off to make everything flush.
    Thanks for the help,
    Budman

  9. #9
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Can you shim your riva plate down at all without it hanging below? If so, shim it down as far as you can without it hanging below and go from there. I would avoid grinding the running surface of the plate (the side of the plate that rides on the water). The only grinding I did on my ride plate was on the bosses, just to true them up and make all four even and flat.

    If your looking for glass top speed, I think the R&D with the Group K mod is your best bet. I was able to shim mine down in the front about a 1/4" and its almost flush with the back of the grate.

    Also note that as you shim down the front, the rear of the plate will be moving closer to the pump nozzle, make sure the plate is not hitting the pump. The only material removed on my ride plate was on the bosses, just to true them up and make all four even and flat. I hand sanded them.

  10. #10
    ttbone72's Avatar
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    Be sure to check out Spud's post on ride plate testing (It's a sticky) a ton of very good info in that post

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