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  1. #1

    ECM Help/Eliminating Limp Mode? - F12X

    I wish i had the answer to this. And im tired of searching for a solid answer, because it doesnt exist. So much dispute over hondas not being able to go fast and all that mess. I just want to be able to beat on it like the Honda it is, with out having to hear the warning buzzer, go into limp mode, turn off the ski, turn it back on, only for it to go limp again after 10 seconds.

    Is anyone else on the same page as me? I bought my 2002 F12X for $800, i dont want to sell my liver to make it fast/reliable, and I cant buy a $14k RXP or whatever. I just want to be able to beat the crap out of it, up the boost a bit, mod a few things and maybe be able to ride around my lake non stop with no problems.

    Please dont tell me to get a new ski. I just want to know, if theres a way to eliminate limp mode entirely, or by pass it.

    Surely theres a techy out there that has pulled this off. If not, my next step is to figure out the most basic, cheap, convenient form of a standalone/programmable ecu.

    Personally, Im only familiar with Hondata, AEM, Crome, and Uberdata. I just read alot lately about F12X's with standalones and wonder what the most popular route is?

    Any help is greatly appreciated.


  2. #2
    We are the same are shop tunes most of are cars on those systems that is the real bumer on thease hondas that the people that have moded only made like a map clamp or something of that sort no one has gone crazy with these hondas that is why we are. But it is very similar to a motor cycle motor hareness and ecu .

  3. #3
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
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    nitroshark has gone crazy with it. Fkn beautiful the stuff he has done. Just search his threads on pwctoday.com honda forums.

    street racer, did you pull codes to see what is putting you into limp mode? We can get you out of it, but that is the best place to start.

    go here and to post#2 and get instructions and let us know.
    Once we figure out where the issue is then we can correct it. After that, you need to get a macsboost module, a cheap intercooler, and a cheap manual boost controller and we'll have you a monster for cheap. Might only last a year or two but it'll run like a scalded cat. The module is 350 used, 450 new..we can find an IC for 150, mbc for 30, and you can bend the prop yourself with easy instructions. Buy a 70 dollar rebuild kit for the jet pump from kevin at east toledo honda.

    [you can skip the mac unit and go with two mbc's but it's harder to dial in. Plug and go will be much easier. Get a 5 gal gas can full of 110 and Run one gallon of race gas per tankful.]

  4. #4
    dav_dman, I ended up resetting the ecu like you said, taking off all battery cables and I beleive it cleared the codes. I just havent gotten back on the lake to see if it will stay that way.

    and when your say mbc, your referring to a manual boost controller right? Your saying i can SKIP the MAC unit and just use two boost controllers? Cuz i have no problem doing that. What is the purpose though? To trick the wastegate pressure switch or what? Im curious. I want more than anything to just be able to cheat and trick this jet ski to do what I want with it.

    Also, what does the stock map sensor max out PSI wise? What PSI does the ecu max out and go into limp mode?

  5. #5
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
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    yours wont like anything over 12 sustained but you'll get up to 17 momentary before it catches up and gives u the finger.

    mbc is manual boost controller. Get an alpha kit or beta kit, from superjim and set intake air pressure limit to 10-11psi while setting wastegate boost to 14 with stock intercooler...17 or 18 with aftermkt IC.

    http://www.pwctoday.com/members/super-jim/

  6. #6
    You da man.


    I have two mbc's here.

    So your saying install one regularly (between the wg and compressor) and then by intake air pressure, you mean installing one between the compressor and the wastegate pressure sensor thing?

  7. #7
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
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    no , compressor to mbc using original hose that was running to the wgsolenoid before (it has a restrictor in it). Then mbc to wastegate. You're bypassing the electronic wastegate solenoid. You will start by adjusting to 14psi on the water under load. Intake on the left side of engine has a pressure sensor with wire and hose feeding it. Hose needs to go intake to mbc, then mbc to sensor and keep that in the 10-11psi range. As boost goes up this will rise so you'll have to adjust one, then the other, then the first one, then the other. When it hits overboost while adjusting and shuts down cursing at you then pull the lanyard quickly and wait a few seconds before starting again. Go higher than 14 and you throw an intake air temp code and go into limp mode on your next long wot run. Get a better intercooler and you can go 17-18psi but if so then i would run a gallon of race gas per tank and know that the teensy turbo is spinning over capacity and won't last more than a couple hundred hrs probably. THe map sensor is also sensing boost and will adjust fuel for you so dont go trying to fool that. You will need two boost gauges to do this effectively.

    If you give up on it, then sbt will give you 800 for the core running engine. Send me the front compressor wheel off the turbo, i need one.

    good luck
    Dave

  8. #8
    JRINJAX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
    no , compressor to mbc using original hose that was running to the wgsolenoid before (it has a restrictor in it). Then mbc to wastegate. You're bypassing the electronic wastegate solenoid. You will start by adjusting to 14psi on the water under load. Intake on the left side of engine has a pressure sensor with wire and hose feeding it. Hose needs to go intake to mbc, then mbc to sensor and keep that in the 10-11psi range. As boost goes up this will rise so you'll have to adjust one, then the other, then the first one, then the other. When it hits overboost while adjusting and shuts down cursing at you then pull the lanyard quickly and wait a few seconds before starting again. Go higher than 14 and you throw an intake air temp code and go into limp mode on your next long wot run. Get a better intercooler and you can go 17-18psi but if so then i would run a gallon of race gas per tank and know that the teensy turbo is spinning over capacity and won't last more than a couple hundred hrs probably. THe map sensor is also sensing boost and will adjust fuel for you so dont go trying to fool that. You will need two boost gauges to do this effectively.

    If you give up on it, then sbt will give you 800 for the core running engine. Send me the front compressor wheel off the turbo, i need one.

    good luck
    Dave
    Dave,
    The compressor wheel won't do you any good. There is no one who can balance the IHI ball bearing turbo and with the RPM it turns, it will snap the tiny shaft like mine did.

  9. #9
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
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    damn . Ok thanks JR

  10. #10
    If you remember the pics I posted on PWCtoday, the compressor wheel is garbage.

    As for everything else, Im ready to test it out, I just need a new rubber exhaust pipe, and the exhaust outlet. Anybody have some spares? If not Ill have to order from discounthonda and that may take a while to ship.....Havent ordered from them before.

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