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  1. #1

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    Exclamation help! 2002 Polaris Virage TXI 1200

    Ok, need some guidance please... I have aquired a 2002 Virage TXi. I'm new to the pwc side of water sports.

    This is what I've done and know as a few min. ago?

    -62 hours on machine
    -New Gas
    -Oil Level is good
    -I've installed a Flush Kit to make sure there are no clogs, and to run out of the water to test the maching.
    -Battery Has 11.2 Volts on the meter when off, around 14 volts when ideling.
    -I've pulled the plugs and inspected them, have replacements on order...
    -Checked all the lines etc.
    -No Warning lights on computer to this point.

    So this is what the problem is and has been for a year now. The ski will start, run, idle and rev up and down as it should. but after approx. 10 min. of running or idling it will just stop running. You can turn right around and start it back up and it runs for about a minute and then stops running. Over and over again.. No lights or warnings come up when it dies.

    My next step is to do a compression check on the ski and replace the spark plugs and tripe check the battery. What else does anyone recommend trying?

    Thanks in advance..

    Josh


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Do NOT run it on the hose for more than two minutes at a time. The through-hull seals and jet pump seals are cooled only when the hull is floating in water.

    Running those seals without water will melt the seal lips.

    The Reverse Flush hose connection is just that - for reverse flushing material out of the water jackets. It does not provide complete and proper cooling of the engine and EMM.

    11.2 volts on a battery says it is very weak. I would suggest a new battery.

    Correct spark plugs are a must - no substitutes. NGK PZFR6H only.

    Check all the small cooling hoses for blockages or kinks. You may need to remove the fittings on the stator cover to check for clogs.

    The EMM requires proper water cooling.

  3. #3

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    I think I can tackle this one... I was thinking the battery was a bit low. And there are correct spark plugs in the ski right now, I had to order new ones since they seem to be a rare one...

    As for the stater cover for clogs.... can you tell me where that might be? Since I'm a pwc virgin... I can do just about anything mechanically but don't know my way around this unit yet... I'm learning very quickly though!

    Thanks, I have some tinkering to do!

    Josh

  4. #4

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    also, since I would like to diagnose this issue further without putting in the water, is there a way to hook a water supply so we can make sure the ski is getting the proper water through it for cooling while I'm figuring and checking things out?

  5. #5
    2&4strokepolaristech's Avatar
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    is this a salt water boat or a fresh water boat? When it dies see if you have fuel pressure? Does the display go out? What is your compression? Also as mentioned make sure that you have clear cooling lines to stator cover as well as the emm. The emm is water cooled as K447 mentioned to keep EMM cool because the voltage regulator is built into that Emm...the stator housing is cooled because that big stator makes alot of heat and need cool the housing and get some heat away from the stator to keep it alive....


    we need more imformation

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PERCMAN25 View Post
    also, since I would like to diagnose this issue further without putting in the water, is there a way to hook a water supply so we can make sure the ski is getting the proper water through it for cooling while I'm figuring and checking things out?
    Keep in mind that out of the water there is no load on the engine, so it is not the same as running it at speed in the water.

    You can connect a garden hose adapter to the 3/4 inch cooling water hose, and then feed water into the same hose the jet pump normally does.

    Disconnect the large hose from the inside base of the jet pump, down low on the right side (when looking down from behind the seat opening). Connect your garden hose adapter to this 3/4" hose.

    You would still have the limitation of max two minutes engine run time, since the seals are not being cooled.

    If you disconnect or clamp off the small exhaust water injection hose, then you can run cooling water through the system with the engine off.

    The small water hose to clamp or disconnect runs between 9 and 10 in the first attached diagram (hose itself is marked 5 in second diagram).

    No time limit on the garden hose when the engine is off AND the exhaust water injection is suppressed. Make very sure you have the correct hoses.
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  7. #7

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    No what???

    Ok Forum Friends... Been working hard trying to figure out some issues as listed in the previous threads...

    Here is what I've done.

    Compression Check Front to Back 130, 130, 127
    Replaced the spark Plugs with NGK PZFR6H
    Check CPS for signs od Debris, None
    Checked all cooling hoses
    Checked all connections
    Replaced Battery with an Odyssey 625
    Checked voltage, Sitiing 12.3... Running 14.2ish

    Ok now for the weird part... It will start up and run for a while then die, 5-10 max... so I had to replace the schrader valve since it was cracked. Did that toda and tried 1 new fuel pressure guage and an older one to see if I have the 20 psi that is needed... Neither of the gueages would show any pressure during ideling or Reved up... So again, I tried mutiple forms of hoses, fitting etc to make sure I had a tight seal... So what I did is made a open ended hose with a fitting to connect to the valve and started the engine to make sure and see how much fuel is coming out... Again the engin runns and revs up for a short period of time, but what came out the tube was gas but not at a very high rate?

    So the fuel pump is working and delivering fuel, but what comes out the tube should that be under pressure and not a steady trickle?

    I'm going to try a third option with the test, but I'm wondering if maybe the the pump works but does not deliver a constant amount and pressure for the unit to run?

    Any help where to go from here is appreciated...

    I for s & g's hooked the fuel pressure guage to a bike tire to make sure that it does move and dod move the needle to around 8-10 psi... so I know the gueage at least works...

  8. #8

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    One other thing is that there are no warning lights etc on the mfd, it stays functioning and shows all the levels etc. Never blanks out or resets...

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PERCMAN25 View Post
    ...tried 1 new fuel pressure gauge and an older one to see if I have the 20 psi that is needed...

    Neither of the gauges would show any pressure during idling or Revved up...
    Polaris Ficht Fuel Injected Engines

    How to repair a Ficht fuel pump - pressure regulator has fallen inside
    Symptoms include very low fuel pressure, rough running above idle, engine surging, and lack of power above idle.

  10. #10

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    THANKS, LETS HOPE THATS THE ISSUE, OFF TO TAKE THE SKI APART... SINCE I'M DRAINING ALL THE FUEL AND OIL... i'LL REPLACE THE OIL WITH POLARIS SYNTHETIC I PURCHASED AND TOP OFF WITH 89 OCTANE!

    THANKS, I'LL POST IF IT WORKS!

    THANKS AGAIN!

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