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  1. #1

    Triple Pump Question, calling John Zigler!

    I got a triple outlet pump kit (thanks John Zigler, great little kit!) and I want to make sure that installation is correct.

    My first question was what to do with the auto cock. Searches on the Hulk indicate that you simple eliminate it. Is that correct?

    #2: with the Auto Cock eliminated, what to do with the small, clear tubes that used to run to it? The thicker tube runs to a fitting beneath the rear-most carb. The thinner tube runs forward, to the gas tank I assume? Should they be blocked? Connected together? Attached to something else?

    #3: I attached the pump to the stock location, the new fuel lines were long enough to reach the three outlets and the fuel supply was long enough to reach the one inlet on the main body. I rotated the top cover with the fitting so that the pulse line connected to it directly. So am I OK here? I saw some posts about keeping the pump low. Is it worth re-routing everything and buying more lines?

    Thanks for any input you can give!

  2. #2
    la90043's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Los Angeles
    put it together this way....................

  3. #3
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Welcome to the Hulk// Did ya get a chance to read the newbie question thread? check it out. at that point when we get more infomation of what kind of ski do that you have, we can help you a little easier.

    At this point, I have to assume that your working with a 750 polaris engine and your upgrading the fuel pump correct?

    what year is the ski? what year is the motor? what kind of motor is it? a 650 700 750 780 785 900 1010 1050 1200 ?? they all hook up a tad different.

    Dissconect the auto cock and throw it away.. then go by the diagram for the routing.. if theres a loose line left, plug it off. no tees.

    Then make sure the pump is located lower in the hull about 4 inches off the bottom. the pulse line should be 12 inches or less coming off the bottom side of the engine.. make sure you clamp that pulse line!.!.

    On the old return line, there is a restrictor with a tie wrap around it. keep that and put it back in the new return line in the same location with a new zip tie on it. clean the gas tank and check for debris..

    also check the fuel inlet screens and pick up lines in the tank. they are usually junk. 20ft or so of fuel line with do everything.. check the fuel selector gasket and grease it.

    remove the screen in the water seperator and clean that out too.

    This all assuming you have a 750 engine! like a 94 or 95 let us know.............

    check for cracks on the gas cap for the tank. they are prone to cracking..(that would be the cap inside the ski, not the outside cap). but yeah check that too! lol

  4. #4

    Noob Mistake!

    Sorry, noob mistake! It is a 1995 Polaris SL750.

    I didn't see a restrictor in the return line, but I will look closer. Thanks for the rest of the advice, I have my to-do list for the week!

  5. #5
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008


    it should have a black tie strap around it about a 1/2 off the top line of the carb rack.

  6. #6
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Here,this should keep ya busy!Allright, Now that this ski is here. what should I do first? charge the battery sounds like the first thing. Now what? what would all you suggest before I even try to start it for the first time.

    Check plugs for type and condition
    Check all connections for tightness and (electrical )
    Check all hose connections
    Correct routing of cooling system
    Drain Plug check or the housing around it could be loose
    Whats in the plug holes if anything
    Battery straps
    Secured CDI
    Sealing the pump area with silicon. what type?
    Steering is tight and not loose
    Comp check? when--after I start it?
    Run on trailer with no driveshaft for a 20 sec burst.
    coupler secure and tight
    check mfd and check hours or reset mfd if needed
    loose things under the engine plate
    carb settings?
    choke check that it actually works
    trim check wires,operation
    loose ride plate
    loose intake grate
    intake screen at pickup
    intake screen for pipe
    check tube for intake that its clear of debris
    check impellor for movement with no binding
    check what size of impellor
    condition of 6-vein stator
    check wear ring clearence
    bilge wiring and see if it works by the switch and actually pumps water
    check bilge screen for debris
    tightness and torque values for head
    check all other nuts for tightness
    bad hose check
    look for oil block off is there and tight
    pop off pressure check? I 've never done that one
    idle adjust if needed in water
    plug chops after temp checks of head
    Piston wash
    do i need to check squish?
    whats a good comp number for this ski. 120 psi?
    gas tank straps secure and actually there
    fire extingusher check for fullness and or/pin missing
    exhaust tightness and hose check at rear of ski
    water intake check. make sure all is clear and routed correctly for binding
    check cotter pin in trim noozle
    speedo pitot is clear
    gas tank pick ups good
    fuel tank clean
    fuel lines? keep what i have? I dont remeber looking if if had tempos or not
    no cracked gas cap-check seals in tank
    water seperator cleaned and check for bad seals
    plastic cover check for battery and cdi
    inspect stator for crusting on it.
    fuel filter check and tighness
    fuel selector seals
    engine mounts bolts are tight
    exhaust is tight
    battery cable condition(green)
    check starter - both bolts are tight
    hood locks tight
    seat locks tight
    throttle is opening butterflies all the way open
    anything else?
    lube coupler bearing
    make sue the plastic battery cover is on it. or else it will short out the battery.
    battery can take a load and still produce 10.6 volts while cranking
    fire extingusher is current/ not 15 years old. may save your life or your ski!
    buy a whistle and a flare kit. hand held air horn too.
    check blades on impellor. they should be like new looking. if all bent, there junk.

  7. #7

    Oh my

    That will keep my busy!

    So far:

    #1: I have pulled the entire intake assembly to re-do the fuel pump lines and check the reeds. (Everything looks good). Everything is cleaned and lubed, but the return on the throttle sticks. If you let go of the throttle, the butterflies will not snap shut. They kinda Not safe. The P.O. added an extra return spring, but it was so still you couldn't squeeze the throttle! I played with a few other springs and found a good balance. It seems like it will be a good solution, but I do wonder why the butterflies don;t snap shut on their own.

    #2: I have secured loose wires and things that were banging around.

    #3: The battery is out and on a charger.

    #4: Snapped off, then replaced, the throttle lever.

    So I have a lot still to do before it hits the water. This list is AWESOME though!

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