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  1. #1
    98gsxl951's Avatar
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    97 xp 800, oil injection issue

    alright well, make a long story short, my cousins xp started to take no oil and seemed to over heat, thats when we noticed that oil in the tank was not dropping, since then my cousin has just been running a light premix, but now the ski runs like crap, it seems liek the oil injection is working put on a new filter oil comes out, oil in the lines leading to the injectors but we are skeptical. any way whats the easiest way to delete the injection? can we jsut cap off the the two nipples for the injectors, and plug the oil tank?


  2. #2
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    on the 787 engine you need to leave the oil flowing through the cases this is what keeps the counterbalance shaft, lubricated, so you cant just remove all the lines and tank.
    you can remove the oil injection pump, block off that hole so no water/moisture gets into your stator. and you can also remove the nipples or just seal them, By the nipples I mean the ones that are attached to your rotary valve, where the oil enters the engine. Because you dont want any air leaks, cause it will cause a seize.


    Since you guess your oil pump is not injection oil. Or maybe a hose can be cracked, and you said the ski runs like shi!t, I would do a compression test, maybe you leaned a cylinder out.

  3. #3
    98gsxl951's Avatar
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    hmmm can i jsut remove the throttle cable off the pump? i dont have a block off kit for the 787.

  4. #4
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    when you remove the cable from the pump I believe they're made so if the cable becomes disconnected the pump goes into WOT injecting maximum oil.

    here is what you should do first,
    do a compression test.

    decide wheter you want to keep the pump or not.

    there is no shortcuts, either keep it or block it off.
    thats just my opinion. I dont like to leave something done halfass
    I like to be confident I wont break down in the middle of the lake.

  5. #5
    98gsxl951's Avatar
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    comp is 145 each, this is what i am trying to narrow down. i dont know if the pump is good or not. i want to block it off temporarily and run premix to see if it changes the way the ski runs now. at the moment my cousin is adding a quart of oil per tank of gas because it seems like the oil in the tank is barely moving. so if the ski runs better on premix only with no oil i nj, then we will block it off. if the oil injection is indeed working correctly we will leave it on and not run premix. is their a way to test the oil injection to see if it is working properly?

  6. #6
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    I dont think its the oil injection or oil in gas thats making it run bad, you have a fuel delivery problem, clogged carb filter, or clogged fuel selector knob, Have you replaced the grey fuel lines?

    as for the overheating your buddy probably has a clog on the cooling lines, or in the water jackets around the engine, sand is the most common thing I've seen.

    the only way i know to check the pump is to take it off and spin it with a drill. and see if it squirts oil. BTW it will squirt it really slow, dont expect a massive flow.

  7. #7
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    If the cable is disconnected the pump is running wide open.

    All of that extra oil may have fouled a plug (not so hard to do on an 800).

  8. #8
    98gsxl951's Avatar
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    i will remove it and hook up a drill to it. thanks for the tip. it over heated last year cause he sucked up some crap into the intake, the motor would spin but ski wouldn go, plus his temp sensor (if it has one) doesn work. so before he knew it the pipes were not white any more lol. the carbs could use a rebuild as well. its weird though cause it ran fine, then one day it runs like crap. idk. i will relay him the ideas and see where he takes them.

  9. #9
    Consider the possibility that it is now running poorly because you are not only adding a pre-mix (should be 40:1 ratio) + the Oil Pump is possibly working fine or intermittently working or the Oil Tank is not draining down do to a clogged check valve at the top vent creating a vacuum in the tank. What do the plugs look like ? Try new plugs (NGK BR8ES) first and if after 15 minutes run time they are Black and Oily then you have too much oil in your Pre-mix + Oil Injection added together.

    To test an Oil Pump driving it using a drill may prove to be inconclusive results unless the test is done correctly in all respects.

    With an 800 engine Oil Pump your going to have a rather irregular tab on the backside of the Pump to connect the drill to which may prove close to impossible to drive at a high enough speed to make the Oil pump work, use the plastic adapter which will come out with the oil Pump to connect the two--- you will need at least 1500rpm.

    If you manage to get that hooked up--it drives counterclockwise as viewed from the rear.

    You will need to Tie Wrap the Oil Pump Actuator Arm Wide Open to the Oil Pump Body

    You will need *some* amount of Oil in the main supply line which will need to be held above the Oil Pump since it's gravity fed.

    All air bubbles *inside* the Oil Pump will need to be bled off first.

    If you can set this up in the way just overviewed, and drive the pump at a high enough speed then you should get Oil to slowly 'pulse' through the two small injector lines.


    I've done this many times, Oil Pumps generally are pretty reliable, sure there are some which fail, but overall, if you are not getting correct Oil metering it's usually cracked or broken small injection lines, clogged Oil filter or an air lock inside the Oil Pump itself. I've only had one case where a Brass Injector (check valve) was stuck and only two cases where the Oil Pump itself was 'bad'--one of which was owner induced by forcing the actuator arm the wrong direction (several times)

    If you decide to go to premix by removing the Oil Pump and capping it off with a Block Off kit then you need to run a large Oil Line between the Rotary Valve Oil Bath IN and OUT nipples under the Carbs/Exhaust. Then you can remove the Oil Tank. The Oil Bath line needs to have a 2" air gap at the top for Oil expansion when hot. The counterbalance shaft gets its lubrication preliminarily from an oil fill and then ongoing from a vent on the rear cylinder which the pre-mix will provide.

    ---DvD

  10. #10
    Also,

    If you have an overheating problem on an 800 (or 947) engine after some foreign matl. went through the Jet Pump. After cleaning/backflushing all your cooling lines--check the Water Control Valve to be sure it isn't clogged as well. It meters water to the Mid-pipe injector (clean that too) and if it clogs you will run really hot---enough to melt your exhaust coupler if you let it go long enough.

    If you still have the original "Grey" Fuel lines in your unit, then you have other problems which will require a complete replacement/rebuild of the fuel system lines, valves, etc. and teardown/cleaning/rebuild of the Carbs. No way around this-- it will eventually kill your engine if not done (period) On a 13 y.o. machine these should have been replaced about----7 years ago.

    An 800 should have 150+ compression if all is well in the top end--anything less spells a mild seizure in it's past life with more to come if maintenance is not done. These machines don't maintain themselves, they are self-destructive by design.

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