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  1. #1

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    2000 785 PRO Wiring Questions

    I just replaced the stator and CDI which both turned out to be bad and now I have spark. I have a couple other wiring questions now though.

    1. I have a gray wire coming out of the CDI not a tan one as shown on the wiring diagram I have? Should that gray wire still go to the brown terminal connection in the electrical box?

    2. The regulator in my box has a red/purple, orange and yellow wire coming out of it. The wiring diagram shows tan, orange and yellow? The red/purple wires have constant power all the time so when I connect the red/purple wire in the box on the regulator it makes the orange and yellow wires also have continuous power? This can't be right since it makes the bilge pump run all the time and the trim work even when the ski isn't running? I'm guessing the yellow and orange wires should only be powered when the engine is running?

    Thanks in advance for the help!


  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mccann316 View Post
    I just replaced the stator and CDI which both turned out to be bad and now I have spark. I have a couple other wiring questions now though.

    1. I have a gray wire coming out of the CDI not a tan one as shown on the wiring diagram I have?
    Should that gray wire still go to the brown terminal connection in the electrical box?
    CDI Gray wire connects to the Tan terminal.

    2. The regulator in my box has a red/purple, orange and yellow wire coming out of it. The wiring diagram shows tan, orange and yellow?
    Which wiring diagram are you using?
    Mine shows an LR-31-2 module with Red/Purple, Yellow, Orange, and ground (Black).


    The red/purple wires have constant power all the time so when I connect the red/purple wire in the box on the regulator it makes the orange and yellow wires also have continuous power?

    This can't be right since it makes the bilge pump run all the time and the trim work even when the ski isn't running?

    I'm guessing the yellow and orange wires should only be powered when the engine is running?

    Thanks in advance for the help!
    Are you connecting the LR module while the battery is connected?
    Always disconnect the battery negative post before making changes in the electrical box.

    The LR module must be grounded inside the electrical box. Otherwise it will not work properly.

    Under normal conditions (LR module grounded, engine off), the Red/Purple and Yellow wires will both have battery power. This is normal.

    When the engine is running, the Orange wire will have power to the bilge pump.

  3. #3

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    I am using the wiring diagram someone provided in my post "Need Help: 2000 PRO 785 No Spark."

    I am not making changes in the electrical box with the battery connected. If I unplug the yellow and orange wire coming from the regulator from the electrical box and leave the regulator grounded to the electrical box and connect the red/purple wire from the regulator to the box both the yellow and orange wire have constant power so the power is coming from the regulator not from another yellow or orange wire in the box and back feeding to the regulator. The constant power to the orange wire when connected causes the bilge pump to run all the time when the battery is connected (even without engine running) and the trim to work all the time, etc. It makes sense that the yellow and red/purple should be powered at all times but what causes the orange to be powered when the engine is running? It must back feed to the regulator from another orange wire not come from the regulator?

  4. #4
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    Arrow 2000 Polaris Pro 785 Wiring Diagram

    Quote Originally Posted by mccann316 View Post
    I am using the wiring diagram someone provided in my post "Need Help: 2000 PRO 785 No Spark."

    I am not making changes in the electrical box with the battery connected.

    If I unplug the yellow and orange wire coming from the regulator from the electrical box and leave the regulator grounded to the electrical box and connect the red/purple wire from the regulator to the box both the yellow and orange wire have constant power so the power is coming from the regulator not from another yellow or orange wire in the box and back feeding to the regulator.

    The constant power to the orange wire when connected causes the bilge pump to run all the time when the battery is connected (even without engine running) and the trim to work all the time, etc.

    It makes sense that the yellow and red/purple should be powered at all times but what causes the orange to be powered when the engine is running?

    It must back feed to the regulator from another orange wire not come from the regulator?
    Use the attached wiring diagram instead.

    That previously linked diagram is hard to read, and is for the 1997-1998 Pro 785 (which is very similar).

    Are you 100% certain that the Black wire/Ground tab of the LR module is in fact electrically grounded?
    Zero ohms from the metal tab to the engine block?

    The LR module has two functions.

    Using the ground and Red/Purple wires, it monitors the battery voltage. When the engine is running, it rectifies and modulates the grounding of Yellow wire to control the charging current from the charging coil in the magneto stator.

    Note: When engine is off, the Yellow wire will show battery voltage, which is coming through the stator coil from the battery.
    At the same time, the LR module monitors the Yellow wire for AC voltage. When the Yellow wire has AC voltage, that means the engine is rotating, and the LR module switches battery power to the Orange wire.

    The Orange wire from the LR module then powers the bilge pump.

    Both LR functions are dependent on a solid ground connection. With a poor ground, the LR module cannot control itself.

    Of course, it is possible the LR module has failed.

    Referring to the attached diagram, make sure it is wired into the electrical box incorrectly.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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    anyone have a module for sale how much and are the bad module stator cdi related?


    Thanks K447!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mccann316 View Post
    anyone have a module for sale how much

    ...and are the bad module stator cdi related?...
    Usually a failed LR module doesn't damage anything else.

    It is possible that a shorted LR module can smoke the stator coils, but I think that is rare.

    You are looking for an LR-31-2 (part# 4010302), which is an updated version of the older LR-31 module.

    The older module might work just fine, but the LR-31-2 is the better choice.

    Contact John Zigler next week (he is not in the shop this week), if you cannot find one elsewhere.

    PartsPitStop lists it for $84

    If you leave the LR module unconnected, you can ride without it, for a short while. The battery will not be charged, and the ignition will run the battery flat in maybe an hour or so.

    And the bilge pump won't run automatically.

    If your battery is young and well charged, you might get away with it

  7. #7

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    So the power to the yellow wire on the regulator is not coming from the regulator it is coming to the regulator from the stator so if the yellow and orange wires from the regulator are unplugged and its only plugged in by the red/purple wire and grounded in the box there should be no power to either the yellow or orange wire correct? If I verify a proper ground it must be bad? Will it hurt anything to leave it as is and unplug the bilge pump for now it is the only thing that will run constantly when the battery is installed. Also I am still worried about how the stator, cdi and now this regulator can all be bad at the same time? Has this ever happened before? I'm worried about some issue that caused a chain reaction and burned all this stuff out. Thanks again for the help!

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    If the battery is hooked up backwards, that can do a lot of damage.

    Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes you don't.

    If you disconnect the Yellow and Orange, there is no point in leaving the Red/Purple connected.

  9. #9

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    So to test the regulator I can ground it and put battery voltage to red/purple wire and there should be no voltage to the yellow or orange wire if they are disconnected? If the yellow is connected to the box it will get battery voltage from the stator also but there still should be no voltage to the orange wire? If so the regulator must be bad?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mccann316 View Post
    So to test the regulator I can ground it and put battery voltage to red/purple wire and there should be no voltage to the yellow or orange wire if they are disconnected?

    If the yellow is connected to the box it will get battery voltage from the stator also but there still should be no voltage to the orange wire?
    If so the regulator must be bad?
    Basically, you are correct.

    There may be some leakage voltage, so you should apply a small load such as a small 12 volt light bulb to the Orange output.

    The measured voltage on the Orange wire should be close to zero with a load connected (and no voltage fluctuations applied to Yellow).

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