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Thread: fuel issues?

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    fuel issues?

    Hi I just bought a 94 65 sl, to replace the one I blew up last year, it starts up if you spray carb cleaner in the carbs, but it will not step up the rpms, when you give it more gas with out wanting to die, and when you pull the plugs they look like they are covered in gas? but yet it seems like its not getting enough gas? any suggestions? some one told me it could be a reed problem? are there any ways to test for broken reeds?


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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    It's possible you're too rich???

    Reeds would look like alot of gas spitting out the top of the carb with the FA removed. A little is normal, but alot is not.

    Check your carb settings.

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    thanks xlint, I know that I need to change the fuel lines and will be ordering the triple fuel pumps from John Zigler, if its my reeds would I be better off with the Boysens or oem? and if went with the Boysens would there be any performance advantages? and any other modifications neccesary to use them?

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Yes, get those upgrades done first before you have a bigger problem.

    OEM reeds will be expensive and last quite a long time. But, the Boyesen will give you a better throttle response. There's 3 different styles of Boyesen. Power reeds ($80) Pro reeds ($120) and RAD valves (new cages and reeds for $360)

    No other mods needed to use them, just replace the gaskets when you install them. Getting a set a of reed spacers would help a little with longevity and a slight midrange boost. Now would be the time to install those while you're right there.

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    Would you recommend the pros? or I have another option I have another set on a 93 650 thats toast Would you recommend reusing them? also is there a trick to where you can ball all of the carbs, or what im calling the fuel rail off at the same time? as Im thinking about pulling off a good set off a non running ski which I know are good, and also doing the triple pump up grade! all at the same time!

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    I'd inspect the 650 stock reeds and see if they're even an option first.

    Pro petals will add a little more snap to your acceleration, but also cost another 50% than the power reeds. It's up to you.

    Ball all of the carbs? Sorry, don't know what that means.

    You remove the 12 screws from the back of the carbs, and then you can remove the "fuel rail" all at once. You're removing the screws holding the carb backs together, not the screws holding the carbs to the rail.

    You can remove the end screws completely, but the middle screws you have to work a little at a time, otherwise you're going to bind them up. Install is the same way. (you'll see what I mean when you get into it.)

    If you have known good carbs, by all means use them. Just make sure they're jetted for the engine you're going to install them onto.

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    Sorry I meant pull the carbs! Wow I guess I better check for typos because that doesnt even sound right! LOL I ordered the triple fuel pumps from john Zigler today Real nice guy! I talked to him for a bit and I was going to replace the gaskets but I see why he told me to try to reuse them 6 gaskets at 2.50 a piece X 6 for a total of 3 ski's man I think I would be better off just making my own, but not sure what to use? but the price is kind of crazy! Thanks for the input by the way! You know your stuff!

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Yeah, John's a great guy to deal with. I recommend him to everyone.

    Ask any Q's you may have, and post pics for what you can't explain. (like balling all of your carbs)


    TIP: Keep an impact screwdriver handy when opening carbs for the first time. There's 2 phillips screws on the inside that can be a real pain, and will strip quite easily. The impact will save alot of trouble.

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    Thers one thing about this ski I am still trying to figure out actually, it has the oil plate block off installed and when I pulled of the oil fuel seperater the fuel mixture seems like it has a lot more oil in it than i would expected, So Im going to empty the fuel tank and remix the fuel, whats the proper ratio? and I am wondering if I should install oil block offs on my other skis, hbow hard are they and what are the advantages? IK know you guys say its safer than the injected way, but is it also less consimption? I am using Amsoil and its been costing me a lot of money in oil, I question whether this wouldnt just pay for it self in savings on the oil bill, as I cannot find a adjustment for the oil rate?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by guitar jeff View Post
    ...wondering if I should install oil block offs on my other skis,

    how hard are they and what are the advantages?

    I know you guys say its safer than the injected way, but is it also less consumption?

    I am using Amsoil and its been costing me a lot of money in oil, I question whether this wouldn't just pay for it self in savings on the oil bill, as I cannot find a adjustment for the oil rate?
    Actually, a properly operating oil injection system uses about half the oil that pre-mixing does. The recommended pre-mix ratio is 40:1

    The oil pump is variable rate. At wide open throttle and high engine RPM it flows the equivalent of 40:1 ratio, perhaps even a little more.

    At lower RPM and idle conditions, the engine does not need much oil, and flow is reduced to roughly the equivalent of 100:1

    This greatly reduces exhaust smoke, and there is less oil pooling in the bottom of the engine during extended low RPM operation (low speed zones).

    Overall, it works out to about half the oil consumption rate of pre-mixing at 40:1.

    There is a calibration mark on the oil pump arm, which should align with a mark on the pump body. You will need a small mirror and light to see the marks.

    Also make sure the oil cable linkage for your oil pump is working correctly.

    The oil pump has a fail-safe design. If the cable breaks, or is installed backwards, the pump arm is spring loaded and falls back to run at 100% flow rate. This pumps much more oil than is needed, but protects the engine from under oiling.

    Converting to pre-mix is not difficult. You can purchase the required block-off plate, remove the pump, and cap off all the oil nipples at the carbs and tank.

    The Polaris oil injection system is generally reliable, as long as the oil lines are maintained. Replace the oil filter, make sure you have good oil hoses, and make sure all the clamps are good. Normally if your replace the hoses every five years or so, the system won't give you much trouble.

    Pre-mixing is not a guarantee against oil related engine failure. All it takes is one re-fueling with straight gasoline, or one incorrect amount of oil into the fuel blend, and the engine can be damaged. Often the damage has already occurred before you notice anything different while riding.

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