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  1. #1

    Dies and goes nowhere 1997 sl700 dlx

    Hi, I just purchased a 1997 polaris sl700 dlx. The previous owner told me it ran fine and he started it up and did a compression test and all seemed good. The pressure was 120 on both cylinders. Today I cleaned it up, greased it, changed the plugs and the filters.

    I took it out and it died?? I finally got it to run and it wouldn't go anywhere. It was like I was towing something really heavy but I wasn't. I gave it full throttle and I was going about 5-8mph's.

    The previous owner told me he removed the thermostat and left it out. He also said he hadn't used it for 6months and that the crab should be cleaned and the gas should be changed. Well I emptied half the tank, the gas smelled fine and I sprayed the carbs up with cleaner. I added additives. Everything seemed fine until I got it in the water.

    I noticed in the electrical box there was a light blue wire that was unplugged so I plugged it in, that didn't help.


    What should I do. I just got this ski yesterday as a present for my girlfriends b day which is tuesday. Should I take it back and demand my money??

    Could it be a rpm limiter?


    If I wanted to check my rpms on what wire do I connect the gun to?

    He also told me that he takes the carbs apart all the time without gasket kit and just cleans the jets??


    Help

    Thanks!!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Does the engine really rev up in the water, just no thrust?

    Or does the engine seem to be bogging down and unable to rev up properly?

    Are the correct spark plugs installed?

    Check the plug wires and coil ohms.

    Does this engine have the original ignition, or the Update Kit?
    The CDI part number will tell you which you have.

    Run it on the trailer for about 20 seconds (no water cooling required). Shut it down. Are both cylinders about the same temperature?

    The next time you have it in the water, compare cylinder heat using your hand. This will tell you if one cylinder is working more than the other.

    Polaris Domestic (red) engine

  3. #3
    The engine definitely revs up in the water just no thrust. It doesn't sound like its at high rpms. The plugs that I put in are NGK BPR8S.

    I will try to see if the temp is different tomorrow.

    Where do I find the CDI#?

    Do you think that by cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. this problem will go away?

    The previous owner said all was good??

    Thank you.

  4. #4
    Also I just realized that it has the grey fuel lines. I will change them tomorrow.

    Could this be the root of my problem for the symptoms that I am having?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebas54 View Post
    The engine definitely revs up in the water just no thrust. It doesn't sound like its at high rpms. The plugs that I put in are NGK BPR8S.

    I will try to see if the temp is different tomorrow.

    Where do I find the CDI#?

    Do you think that by cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. this problem will go away?

    The previous owner said all was good??

    Thank you.
    Right now, it sounds like the splines at one end or the other of the drive shaft are stripped. The engine revs up, but the impeller drive is slipping.

    The best way to check the drive splines is to remove the jet pump, and visually inspect the splines. Not as hard as it sounds

    Remove the four LONG bolts (not nuts, bolts) that hold the rear of the jet pump nozzle on.

    You will also need to remove the small bolts for the nozzle ends of the steering and reverse cables.

    Remove the small bilge siphon hoses on the lower right side of the jet pump where they attach to the exit nozzle.

    With the four long bolts removed, the jet pump just pulls straight out.

    It is often stuck, so it can take some wiggling and perhaps prying with a long 2x4 to get it to work loose.

    When it does release and pull off, be ready for it.

    The drive shaft often comes out at the same time. Just pull it straight out of the hull.

    Once you have it out of the hull, remove the drive shaft from the impeller. It just pulls out, but there can be a vacuum from the grease and seal, so it can take some wiggling.

    Clean any grease away from the splines so you can inspect them. Do NOT use your fingers - metal slivers are painful.

    Now inspect the drive shaft at both ends. The splines should not be rounded over or stripped off.

    Also inspect the splines inside the nose of the impeller. They should also look squared off, not rounded.

    Also use a small mirror to inspect the splines inside the drive shaft coupler on the engine.

    You can find examples on here of good and damaged splines, just use the search tool.

    While you have it off, check the impeller bearings. The impeller should turn smoothly, with no grittiness, roughness, or noises. And no side to side slop.

    Also inspect the impeller and stator blades for damage.

  6. #6
    Thanks so much I will remove the jet pump tomorrow. DO you think I should call the guy I bought it from?

  7. #7
    IF it is the splines on the drive shaft would this cause the engine to stall?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebas54 View Post
    ...Do you think I should call the guy I bought it from?
    I can't comment on that.

    Depends on what you find wrong, and what condition the seller said it was in, an what the terms of your deal were.

    Do the other checks mentioned earlier, like spark plug wire and coil ohms.

    The CDI is inside the electrical box.

    Be sure to look at this link ==> Polaris Domestic (red) engine

  9. #9
    I guess since I have you attention I might as well ask about the fuel gauge. It doesn't work. Do the gauges usually go bad or the sensor float?

    If the problem is in the drive shaft would this make it stall and hard to start?

    Also alot of blueish whiteish smoke comes out of the exhaust when I opened the throttle today while hooked up to the hose.


    Thanks again

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sebas54 View Post
    I guess since I have you attention I might as well ask about the fuel gauge. It doesn't work.
    Do the gauges usually go bad or the sensor float?

    If the problem is in the drive shaft would this make it stall and hard to start?

    Also a lot of blueish whiteish smoke comes out of the exhaust when I opened the throttle today while hooked up to the hose...
    Do you have the digital MFD display, or an analog dial fuel gauge?
    If you have the MFD display, does the rest of it work properly?

    The fuel floats are known to get heavy and no longer float properly. There is a replacement float available.

    Drive shaft problems would not affect engine starting. Impeller bearing problems can.

    2-stroke engines can produce a lot of smoke when first started, especially if the engine has been fogged with fogging oil for storage.

    On the water and warmed up, there should be very little visible smoke.

    On the hose - you know about the proper sequence for running on the hose?
    Engine start, THEN water turned on
    Water off first, THEN engine off (after a quick throttle burst to clear out the exhaust)

    Maximum run time on the hose is two minutes, and preferably one minute or less.

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